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Got a screaming deal on beadlocks.. now need some advise *PICS inside*

What color should I paint my beadlock rings? (wheels will be black)

  • grabber green

    Votes: 11 57.9%
  • black

    Votes: 4 21.1%
  • I'm nekkid

    Votes: 4 21.1%

  • Total voters
    19

78Suburban

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I scored these for 75 bucks plust shipping (which was 49 bucks, and I had that much in old pocket change!).

I was always thinking that the inside rings of beadlocks were tapped for threads. Are you just supposed to use lock nuts on the inside? How do you hold them still to tighten the bolt, just slip a bent wrench back in between the inner ring and the rim?

Somebody has some wagon wheels that would make a much better platform that my stock 16.5's, so I'm gonna buy those and get the beadlock rings welded to them. I don't think there would hardly be room to get the nuts on the back side with my stock wheels.

The beadlocks are awesome, and for the price I can't beat them, but the hardware is a wee bit questionable. Since each ring has 32 holes, I would need 128 bolts. I just got a box of 100 grade 2 bolts. Also got 100 nylon lock nuts and 25 grade 8 nuts that I don't think are even the right size. Also got 100 flat washers.

Should I just run to fastenal and buy grade 8 bolts and lock nuts, or maybe just buy some more bolts like I have and make use of the 100 bolts he sent me? I'm guessing the hardware are good paperweights? Its ok, I still got a deal!

beadlock1.jpg


beadlock2.jpg


hardware2.jpg


hardware3.jpg


hardware4.jpg


hardware1.jpg


Also, what color should I paint the beadlock rings, grabber green like my truck, or black?
 
I personally think it would be a waste to mount those on the stock wheels. They are what, 6.5" wide so would be 7.5" wide after the beadlock? When you step up into 40s or so you might regret that.
 
MNorby said:
I personally think it would be a waste to mount those on the stock wheels. They are what, 6.5" wide so would be 7.5" wide after the beadlock? When you step up into 40s or so you might regret that.

that's why I'm mounting them on 8" wide wagon wheels :D
 
after you get wider wheels I bet you will have more room for the bead bolts
 
mouse said:
Are you going to lets us in on the secret of where you got them?

somebody bought them, didn't use them, listed them for 75 buck buy it now on ebay. Once in a lifetime deal :D
 
Any thoughts on hardware? Is any of that junk usable? What have you all run for hardware on your weld on beadlocks??

thanks,
James
 
Grade 2 aint gonna cut it, street trail or whatever.

Spring for some grade 8 stuff.
 
ryan22re said:
Grade 2 aint gonna cut it, street trail or whatever.

Spring for some grade 8 stuff.

that's what I was thinking. SO get grade 8 bolts and grade 8 locknuts (not nylon crap). Do I need to get any washers? What length bolts should I get, and should they be threaded all the way to the head? I knew the "hardware included" was too good to be true, looks like I'll be going to fastenall :p:
 
Bolt length will depend on the thickness of the tire bead.

Best bet is to have them welded up and test fit with some cheaper bolts, and the go buy the right length.
 
Good to see that it all came in. Too bad the hardware was grade 2, that's surprising. Definitely was worth waking up your dad in the middle of the night though. :p: The truck will look good with them, and 8" wagons should be a decent wheel to build them off of. IIRC, the bead of my 39.5's was about 7/8". Take that, plus the thickness of the two rings, leave a little for your washers and nut, and that's what you need for a bolt. I wouldn't be surprised if the ones it came with are the correct size, but I'd check it out and do a mock up first. As long as they have enough thread so that you can be sure you won't bottom out the threads, I wouldn't say they need to go all the way to the head.
 
Oh yeah? Well a million dollars isn't exactly a lot of money these days, Virtucon alone makes over nine billion dollars a year.
 
Just a thought, but aren't grade 8 bolts kinda overkill for beadlocks? Wouldn't grade 5 get the job done? Its not like they're gonna shear or anything, and I was gonna use all metal pinch style locknuts, those won't be backing off. I used grade 8 on my suspension, but do I really need 32 grade 8 bolts to pinch some rubber? I'm thinking grade 5's would be plenty and save some money, am I thinking backward here?
 
I'm going to suggest Stainless Steel, plenty strong, corrosion resistance, and a little bling.
 
i run a grade 5 bolt and havent had a problem, its what came in my weld on kit:D
 
IMO I couldn't see why grade 5 wouldn't be ok. You have 32 of the things holding it on spaced every inch or so.
 
I run grade 2 bolts, thats what GLO sells with there kits.

It reallt isnt a high stress application, I mean you have a 1" piece of rubber to soak up the stress. Not to mention 32 of them spreading out the force.
 

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