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Got CUCV axles

Mastiff

Mastiff

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Haven't torn into them yet to see what I've got exactly. One question right off though, should there be any rotational play in the pinion? Both axles allow the pinion to turn just a bit before taking up the slack. Otherwise they feel tight. I feel confident to rebuild most everything on here, except for setting the ring and pinion. I hope I don't need to.

I'm going to surf on this one, but if anyone wants to point me in the right direction, how do people go about keeping a parking brake when converting a 14bff rear to disk brakes?
 
I believe with a detroit in the rear youll have something like 30 degrees of backlash. So that would explain the play in the rear.
 
and there should only be something like .004"-.009" clearance between the ring and pinion gears. enough that you can feel it.
 
So how about the D60 with no locker. Should there be any perceptible backlash or play or slop or whatever you want to call it?
 
Mastiff said:
So how about the D60 with no locker. Should there be any perceptible backlash or play or slop or whatever you want to call it?
Click to expand...

Yeah a tiny bit. Its really hard to grasp how little it actually is until you gain experience setting gears up and get a feel for whats too much and whats too little.
 
Mastiff said:
So how about the D60 with no locker. Should there be any perceptible backlash or play or slop or whatever you want to call it?
Click to expand...

yes. you will have slop. the stacked clearances of the R&P lash, spider gear slop, and axle spline slop will add up to enough to easily feel.

sorting the R&P lash out of all that is tricky.
 
Thanks for the help. I have no reason to think anything is wrong. I'm sure it's the factory setup, so unless something rotted away in a major way I think it should be okay.
 
375 H&H said:
yes. you will have slop. the stacked clearances of the R&P lash, spider gear slop, and axle spline slop will add up to enough to easily feel.

sorting the R&P lash out of all that is tricky.
Click to expand...


:confused:

Backlash is the first thing to hit when you rotate the yoke. Spiders and axle spline have nothing to do with backlash. Sure its additional slop before the wheels start spinning but its irrelevant in feeling for backlash on the ring and pinion.

This is the same reason I said you basically cant feel backlash through a locker. Because it free wheels so easy for the first 30* its super hard to tell where the backlash ended and the slop in the locker started.

And all of this is really a moot point because the correct way to check the backlash is to pull the cover and rock the ring with your hand while holding the yoke with a dial indicator on it...
 
For my question I was just asking about total slop until major resistance is felt. I could go back out and listen/feel closely for first contact, but I'm not that concerned anymore.
 
if the diff is in a truck and the driveline is hooked up, this will add to the degree of difficulty of sorting the R&P lash out of the other stuff.

bottom line is you will have some 'slop' so don't be alarmed.
 
Mastiff said:
I'm going to surf on this one, but if anyone wants to point me in the right direction, how do people go about keeping a parking brake when converting a 14bff rear to disk brakes?
Click to expand...

As mentioned, the 76-78 Cadillac El Dorado calipers offer a parking brake and fit in the same for factor as the popular K20 front calipers.

Except (1) one side is made of unobtanium (i.e. sets are very difficult to find, as one side is much less common than the other :confused: ) and (2) they are notorious for not setting properly. Some folks say that once adjusted they hold well. I suspect that poorly rebuilt units have trouble ... all I know is that both sets I've had don't hold particularly reliably. On one truck I'm going back to drums, and on the other I'm trying a transfer case parking brake. Ask me in a few months how either went :D

T-case parking brakes can be had at least from TSM ( http://tsmmfg.com/ ) and High Angle ( http://highangledriveline.com/ ), possibly others.

TSM also offers new-manufacture calipers similar to the Eldo units, which might be more reliable. They also have some high-zoot (read $$$) solutions for dual-caliper mounts, i.e. one hydraulic and one mechanical.

There is also the option of a hydraulic line lock to e.g. the rear calipers, though I haven't personally tried this.

-- A
 
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Nice summary on the parking brakes, Dremu.

I have been wondering why those that want a parking brake haven't looked to the factory late model Chevy parts. My 2003 has a 14 bolt with factory disc brakes & a parking brake under tha hat(I am guessing since I have only had it a month or 2 so I have not had it apart). Surely it would be fairly easy to get those modify those parts to fit an older 14 bolt, & I would think that they are all parts that are still available at any Chevy Dealer. I guess the cost would be the real issue, but it would have to be comparable to TSM. I remember there stuff being over the top expensive.
 
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