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Got my 14BFF!!!!!!!

franco802 said:
Here ya go!!

14boltdrumcrack.jpg
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Wow, I wonder how that happened?
 
MaxPF said:
Wow, I wonder how that happened?
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Not sure, I didn't find any type of damge inside the gear housing, nor does it look like the axle housing is bent. Then again, I can't really tell.
 
franco802 said:
Not sure, I didn't find any type of damge inside the gear housing, nor does it look like the axle housing is bent. Then again, I can't really tell.
Click to expand...

Well, if the hub spins ok then the axle is probably straight. Probably someone dropped the axle on the drum and broke a piece out...
 
sledheadak said:
you can run that drum fine.i have run lots of them like that and never had a problem.
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Hmmm, you are tempting me:) I still have to take the drums off to see what the brakes look like. I am also going to replace the wheel cylinders.
 
sledheadak said:
you can run that drum fine.i have run lots of them like that and never had a problem.
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You can end up with a vibration from the imbalance, bu that is about all. I would just go to a junkyard and score another drum...
 
yeah you have to yank the axle shaft...plus don't forget that when you do that you'll need the socket for the spindle nut that needs to come off before you can "slide" the drum off.
In all honesty I've talked to a couple shops around here and they all said that these 14ff's were so beefy that if they lived their lives under trucks and vans even for years that they are normally fine to just swap in...they get surface rust but oh well. They said just get the darn axle put in and run it...hit the brakes and it'll get the cob webs worked out...sounds dumb but it works.
Plus then you can run them and see what needs to be replaced and what doesn't.

That's what I'm doing...

-Avery
 
beater_k20 said:
details please...
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All it is is a manual push/pull valve. You cut the line that comes out of the master cylinder, route the line from the output of the master cylinder to the inlet of the valve and then the outlet on the valve to the other part of the line (going to the proportioning valve). You depress the brake peddle, push the knob on the valve, and let up on the peddle. The valve effectively blocks the fluid from backing back up the line keeping full pressure on the rear brakes. If you are familiar with an electric line lock, it is the same thing, just manual. I have had them on several wreckers over the years and this rig and never had a failure. You can also use one on the front brakes or all 4 (2 seperate valves). And the best thing is that it is cheap:D and reliable;) .

Also as soon as you apply full pressure to the brake peddle the valve auto releases and your ready to go. Here is a link to the one I use.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=74&cat=0&page=1
 
you said it came from a 74-80 camper ?
the shock mounts look like they are the ones used on newer 14bff's
 
Well, I came home today and saw diff oil all over the floor. My 14bolt is currently sitting on jackstands, I have not removed the drums yet. I saw the oil slowly leaking from one of the drums:confused: There must be an axle seal back there. I spun the axles yesterday to see if everything spun ok, I guess after sitting for 15 years, the axle seals leaked:confused:
 
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