CK5
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Got my new springs in and have a quick install question!

High points were hit:
88+ squares had 9/16 bolts on the bottom of the front shackles. We swap them all to 1/2" to balance bushing, bolt and sleeve strength but TCI has bushings for 88+ specifically. They typically cost more. We usually send the 87- springs if we're sending shackles too since we're replacing it all anyway.
Putting spacers on the bolts/ studs is actually not terrible since a longer fastener can provide a little more spring in the system but it does look goofy. We sell the studs individually if that helps. Cutting a bolt down to make sure that you engage all the thread you can while not bottoming is the best way to take care of the threads in the casting. And use some anti seize and make sure the threads are really clean when you start.
 
My new bolts came in....

Now the spring plates appear to contact the D60 machined area before clamping down on the springs.
 
My new bolts came in....

Now the spring plates appear to contact the D60 machined area before clamping down on the springs.


After talking with Tuff Country they say to use the center section of a junk spring as a spacer. He knew exactly what my trouble is. The 3 leaf EZ ride spring pack is too short. Their HD pack works because it is 4 leafs tall.
 
OK i finally got it all back together and it is still pretty tall.

I guess the 3" lift + 1" D60 + 3" from the tires is still 7" higher than stock.
 
OK i finally got it all back together and it is still pretty tall.

I guess the 3" lift + 1" D60 + 3" from the tires is still 7" higher than stock.

wasnt that what you were expecting? I think the d60 is closer to 1/2”, but 3” lift + (change in tire size/2) + 1/2” for d60 = increase in height.
 
High points were hit:
88+ squares had 9/16 bolts on the bottom of the front shackles. We swap them all to 1/2" to balance bushing, bolt and sleeve strength but TCI has bushings for 88+ specifically. They typically cost more. We usually send the 87- springs if we're sending shackles too since we're replacing it all anyway.
Putting spacers on the bolts/ studs is actually not terrible since a longer fastener can provide a little more spring in the system but it does look goofy. We sell the studs individually if that helps. Cutting a bolt down to make sure that you engage all the thread you can while not bottoming is the best way to take care of the threads in the casting. And use some anti seize and make sure the threads are really clean when you start.

Please note @Stephen is THE man from ORD and even though you purchased springs from a "competitor" he chimed in to help point you in the right direction. Many business's would not do that so props to him. Now that you are a premium member the brotherhood will be looking forward to some pics. Also ORD can hook you up with Tuff Country springs in the future for the rear or their custom made springs.
 
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Please note @Stephen is THE man from ORD and even though you purchased springs from a "competitor" he chimed in to help point you in the right direction. Many business would not do that so props to him. Now that you are a premium member the brotherhood will be looking forward to some pics. Also ORD can hook you up with Tuff Country springs in the future for the rear or their custom made springs.


Thanks!

Hopefully I'll be able to get some pics soon. I'm hoping to get the 383 to fire this weekend. I wasn't planning on a spring swap in the middle of an engine swap but somoeone wanted my old ones right then,
 
The important thing is you got rid of those rough country's. Something I've failed to do yet.
No I take that back. Pics are more important.:pimp:
 

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