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got my ord springs and diy 4x flip installed

metalneverdies

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Now my truck is up driveable. I had to idle around the neighbor hood to keep from shaking the truck apart.

The front drive shaft is like 1/8" away from my Y pipe at ride height. So I have zero down travel. The CV joint stops almost touch too.

Even with my drop pitman arm for a 4 inch lift my drag link angles up like crazy. These springs really don't settle out like 2 inches do they?

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The drag link should follow the arch of the springs.
Look at mine. Drives like a Caddy. How's the rest of the steering parts? I had a Moog upper ball joint with 1500 miles on it that went bad and gave me wobble.
Draglink_zps3f2abd7c.jpg

You need to re-do y-pipe or at least just passenger side. Needs to be over the driveshaft now.
Then measure the t-case flange to front yoke at ride height. Drive shaft will just fit but it'll be too short to flex.

Can't help much on vibrations as I didn't do shackle flip and have a 14 bolt SF out back but check the working angles on the u-joints.
 
At ride height, measure from t-case output flange face to center of u-joint bearing cup retainer on front yoke. Then lift it up so weight is off the axle and it droops down fully. Measure again. Now you have static height and full extension numbers and can get a drive shaft made.
The stock drive shaft will measure out at full extension 34 and 1/8th, give or take. Compressed I think it's like 32".
Like I said it'll bolt in but you'll have zero movement. Need another 2"-3" on the slip shaft but still need to move that exhaust.
I'd get the rear end correct first. Then at least you can drive it. Looks like the diff is pointed right at the t-case rear output. Good for a CV rear but not good for a single cardon.
To help you figure out what you need to do out back, search around on here & read this:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml
 
The drag link should follow the arch of the springs.
How do you figure? If a truck has 12" springs on it, does the drag link need to be the same angle as the steep springs? If so there will be very, very limited turning radius to one side.

The drag link should be as close as to parallel as possible but with a very slight rake to prevent bumpsteer. Keeping it close to parallel keeps the steering wheel turning the same number of rotations both ways.

Have you ever driven a truck with 6" or higher lift with the stock draglink and no steering corrections?
 
So just to make sure I am going about this properly; I need to get the angle of my slip yoke joint and angle of my pinion flange joint and then adjust the rear axle with a shim to get the difference as close to zero as possible. Possibly angling the pinion down past zero to allow the pinion to tip up on hard acceleration.
 
Ok. Bought an angle finder.

Pinion flange is 18*
Slip joint is 8*
Drive shaft is 21*

So I need a 10* shim on the rear of the spring to tip the pinion down?

If that is correct, will a easy inch with the degree cut into it work to fix the pinion angle and allow me to raise the rear of the truck a bit?

Currently the front is 42 1/4" from ground to fender lip. Rear is 39 7/8".
 
Ok. Bought an angle finder.

Pinion flange is 18*
Slip joint is 8*
Drive shaft is 21*

So I need a 10* shim on the rear of the spring to tip the pinion down?

If that is correct, will a easy inch with the degree cut into it work to fix the pinion angle and allow me to raise the rear of the truck a bit?

Currently the front is 42 1/4" from ground to fender lip. Rear is 39 7/8".

As far as the suspension height measurements go, it's the crease in the middle of the fender that the factory made "level". There is more fender below the crease on the rear compared to the front, that's why everyone perceives these trucks to sit low in the rear, it's the way they were designed.

But, ultimately, it doesn't matter what the factory considered "level". The way you want your truck to sit is totally up to you. If both ends of the truck are lifted the same, that couple inches of difference at the bottom of the fender sounds about right.

For reference, on the front, from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the metal bumpstop bracket will measure 8.5 - 9" on a stock truck.

As far as your driveshaft goes, you'll be in for some guess-and-check work. Realistically, lifted Blazers need CV rear driveshafts to eliminate vibration, but for many that isn't an immediate option as they're not cheap.

Pointing your pinion down will make it "right" on paper but the problem is the operating angles are still very steep. Spicer specs ~3 degrees as the max operating angle for vibration free operation, you'd be at 15 degrees or so. So like I said, the cv shaft is the solution but you can make it work with some effort, some people have the best luck with matching operating angles, I had the best luck on my Blazer with the pinion pointing right at the t-case output (even though it isn't right on paper).
 
That's what I was afraid of.

Well, if I already need to buy a nee slip joint because of leak problems the. Would the smart move be to just buy a cv slip joint?

Can I then just attach that new cv slip joint to my drive shaft?
 
How do you figure? If a truck has 12" springs on it, does the drag link need to be the same angle as the steep springs? If so there will be very, very limited turning radius to one side.

The drag link should be as close as to parallel as possible but with a very slight rake to prevent bumpsteer. Keeping it close to parallel keeps the steering wheel turning the same number of rotations both ways.

Have you ever driven a truck with 6" or higher lift with the stock draglink and no steering corrections?

I'd explain it but I figure it like this:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115690
or perhaps like this:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111849
 
So, any one with experience on ORD springs, how much do they settle in after install? I have just over 3" of down travel at this point. That makes me think they should settle in about 2 inches.
 
How much room do you have underneath it? I'm considering running this same setup but want to try and stuff 36" military surplus tires underneath it.
 
How much room do you have underneath it? I'm considering running this same setup but want to try and stuff 36" military surplus tires underneath it.

The front is really tall right now. I am assuming it will settle in. You would have to trim forsure to run 36" tires.
 
I'm always up for a little trim :D lol. Not much around here in the Texas Gulf Coast area but mud so I'm not worried about needing much flex.
 
I'm always up for a little trim :D lol. Not much around here in the Texas Gulf Coast area but mud so I'm not worried about needing much flex.

Well the ord springs are supposed to have like 10" of travel so you would defiantly need limit straps and adjusted bumps to limit your articulation.
 
Hmmm, I think I have some limiting straps somewhere from my jeep...anyway, sorry to hijack! Sweet rig man!
 
So, any one with experience on ORD springs, how much do they settle in after install? I have just over 3" of down travel at this point. That makes me think they should settle in about 2 inches.

How are you determining downtravel? Did you take the measurement from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the bump stop bracket like I mentioned before?
 

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