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got the seal.....i think this is it?

The slipyoke is fine there is prolly another 3-4 inches inside the tcase. You prolly just need to replace the rear seal. They go bad from time to time due to wear and tear.

Ira
 
so what is the name of the seal...any part numbers?

also i want to start doin a little wheelin soon..now i will have to take an 1hr drive to go so i dont wanna break something all the way out there and be an 1hr away from home...so is there anything i should consider before hand?
 
As mentioned, the length the slip is sticking out looks okay. Mine looks similiar and it's been that way for almost 10 years now and has been wheeled hard.

Yes, if the seal has never been replaced then it is probably bad. The other issue is that the rear t-case output rides on a bushing that can wear out over time and allow a little bit of slop........this slop will also cause leaks.
 
6.2Blazer said:
As mentioned, the length the slip is sticking out looks okay. Mine looks similiar and it's been that way for almost 10 years now and has been wheeled hard.

Yes, if the seal has never been replaced then it is probably bad. The other issue is that the rear t-case output rides on a bushing that can wear out over time and allow a little bit of slop........this slop will also cause leaks.
Click to expand...

anyone know any part numbers???
 
aww come one someone must have a part number for the seal and bushing
 
alright i`m going this morning to pick up the seal and bushing from AZ....so what exactly needs to be done to do this?
 
Unbolt the rear end of the driveshaft from the pinion yoke.
Remove the shaft from the sear axle end....now pull the shaft out of the transfer case.
Some ATF might come out so get a drip pan.
Pry the old seal out...be patient...they can be a real PITA sometimes
Install the new seal, be sure to get it in straight. If you bend it....go get a new one.
Put new ATF on the seal area..IMPORTANT...
Now slide the driveshaft back into the transfer case, and bolt it up the the rear axle.
Top off the fluid in the case.

Be sure that you put ATF on the seal area before reinstalling the shaft
 
I use a big flat head screw driver and a few taps from a hammer as I work my way around the seal to pop it off. When putting the new one on I used a piece of wood with a notch cut out of it to fit around the bushing. I basically tapped the seal with a mallet to where it would go on straight, then put the block of wood over it and smacked it in there. This of course was after boogering up two seals. You live and learn :)
 
iirc, I used a large 3/4 drive socket sized to fit the seal...
 
i got the seal yesterday and just want to make sure that its the right thing....

060325054514.JPG
 
How would we know.
You did not get a pic of the part #
You have no machinist rule for size reference.

That said, it looks like the correct part. But there are probably 187,456,255 seals that look just like that one
 
About six months ago I purchased a 72 K5 Blazer. The first thing I did was take the top off of it, well after I washed it I did. It had been sitting in the woods for who knows how long. There had been a lot of people trying to buy it as I later found out, guess I caught the guy on a good day! been researching the soft tops, tigertop, Kana etc. which is best and how hard is it to install?
 
Backwoods 72 said:
About six months ago I purchased a 72 K5 Blazer. The first thing I did was take the top off of it, well after I washed it I did. It had been sitting in the woods for who knows how long. There had been a lot of people trying to buy it as I later found out, guess I caught the guy on a good day! been researching the soft tops, tigertop, Kana etc. which is best and how hard is it to install?
Click to expand...

That has to be the most random thread hi-jack I have ever seen:haha::haha:
 
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