What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Grade 9 Bolts For Steering Box/brace

roadnotca

roadnotca

3/4 ton status
Joined
Sep 16, 2005
Posts
5,430
Reaction score
2
Location
Redondo Beach, CA
HOT Solution for keeping your steering box from coming loose
180,000 PSI Grade 9 bolts.
Poser value; 0 :doah:
Runner value; 10 :wink1:
GO HERE www.exitengr.com

brace.jpg


clip.jpg
 
Last edited:
Confedneck79K30 said:
nice, have a kit to do a steering box?
Click to expand...
Are you referring to stripped threads? If so, yes I will be adding a "Baja-kit", in the next few days. I will PM with specs.
Brent
 
only problem i see is when thay get harder thay get easyer to snap in stead if smeer and then snap. whats the sheer load specs for these and grd 8 and even grd 5 .

i have a friend who works on overhead cranes and thay arnt alowed anything over grd 5 as per osha rulesand regs for this reason.
 
I wouldn't suggest substituting Grade 5 for the factory installed Grade 8 in the steering box.
The bolts in the steering box see higher tension than shear.
Overhead crane(s) are designed with huge margins of safety. The high fastener count becomes as important as the fastener properties.
Sometimes you wonder if the cranes aren't stronger than the building.:haha:
 
true . i just want to get the best facts for any product out there i will be using. some times its best to ask questions like this. :D
 
sweetk30 said:
true . i just want to get the best facts for any product out there i will be using. some times its best to ask questions like this. :D
Click to expand...
Informed customers are the best!:D
 
Grade 9 bolts there are a great idea. I have replaced my factory grade 8 with new stuff to keep them fresh & I have also installed longer bolts so I can put a locknut on the back side of some of them. I did this to help prevent one of the big problems with steering box bolts is them loosening over time. They still loosen but they do not do it as often.

I run grade 9 bolts in my crossover steering arm on my 10 bolt. They have done a great job resisting shearing & have been great.

Harley
 
sweetk30 said:
only problem i see is when thay get harder thay get easyer to snap in stead if smeer and then snap. whats the sheer load specs for these and grd 8 and even grd 5 .

i have a friend who works on overhead cranes and thay arnt alowed anything over grd 5 as per osha rulesand regs for this reason.
Click to expand...
Not this again...

Not true... Although more brittle a grade 8/9 bolt is stronger in ALL aspects. A grade 8 bolt will hold strong when a grade 2/ 5 bend, and will still be holding strong long after either break:rolleyes:
 
sweetk30 said:
i have a friend who works on overhead cranes and thay arnt alowed anything over grd 5 as per osha rulesand regs for this reason.
Click to expand...
They are not using SAE Grade 5 or Grade 8 on structural applications. They are buying bolts under a different spec all together... ASTM A325 and A490. The A490 bolts are considered the equivalent of GR 8 and used all the time on cranes. Including this one I'm part of the design team for:

OLMSTED_CRANE.sized.jpg


This thing will be lifting 5100 Tons and I can't remember how many bolts it has in the splices... but I know my 1 ton would break if I put all the bolts in the bed at once.
 
Last edited:
That is one huge friggen Gantry....

And I would like to see it in writing that OSHA only allows G5 in a crane???


Back on topic now:
Roadnotca, can these be had a little longer so buts could be added on the outside of the gear box? That would just be another thing to ensure that the fasteners don't come loose......we all know how often we actually check torques on those bolts.:D
 
readymix said:
That is one huge friggen Gantry....

And I would like to see it in writing that OSHA only allows G5 in a crane???


Back on topic now:
Roadnotca, can these be had a little longer so buts could be added on the outside of the gear box? That would just be another thing to ensure that the fasteners don't come loose......we all know how often we actually check torques on those bolts.:D
Click to expand...
I'm woikin on it. It will also accomodate the welded plates.
Those plates are "1/8" thk, but they are actually .155 thk ea. That leaves the 3" bolt short of full thread in the box. So with welded plates and a brace requires 3 X 4" and 1 X 3" bolts, nuts, washers and a drill to drill-out the box; then we can torque the Grade 9 for all its worth, not just 80 ft. lbs.
I gotta pull my box, weld the plates and take some pictures.:haha:
 
I am not wnating to remove the threads in the box.....just add a nut to the outside of it so that there is more than 1 fail point (per say)

Know what I mean?

I think it might require that the area n the outside of the box be ground flat so that the nuts could clamp evenly. Should be easy though.
 
What happens with the "jam nut" arrangement is it will maintain clamping on the nut side, and loosen on the frame side, thats the longer more flexible path. When the bolt head releases clamping, the frame rips.
To fix the design is to not rely on the casting threads, they're only good to 80 ft. lbs. You need to open the threads just enough to pass the 7/16 bolt, and clamp the box. This allows a higher torque and much better spread of the load.
 
Another big thing you can do for strength is size the bolt hole so the unthreaded portion is tight in the bolt holes. Basically ream the bolt holes to the size of the bolt shank (unthreaded portion of bolt). It is ok if you have to "lightly" tap on the bolt to get it thru the hole.

In addition make sure the bolt shank goes thru the frame when assembled (no threads at the frame intersection).
 
kennyw said:
Another big thing you can do for strength is size the bolt hole so the unthreaded portion is tight in the bolt holes. Basically ream the bolt holes to the size of the bolt shank (unthreaded portion of bolt). It is ok if you have to "lightly" tap on the bolt to get it thru the hole.

In addition make sure the bolt shank goes thru the frame when assembled (no threads at the frame intersection).
Click to expand...
To fix the design is to not rely on the casting threads, they're only good to 80 ft. lbs. You need to open the threads just enough to pass the 7/16 bolt, and clamp the box. This allows a higher torque and much better spread of the load.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom