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Grade 9 Bolts For Steering Box/brace

I'm not talking about the casting threads, but the bolt threads. Its hard to describe without a picture... but you want all the shear to be on the unthreaded shank of the bolt, not on the threaded portion of the bolt. By drilling out the box and lengthening the bolts and adding nuts you are adding in this feature by moving the threads of the bolt away from the frame. Its definitly not the biggest improvement by any means, but it does help.
 
kennyw said:
I'm not talking about the casting threads, but the bolt threads. Its hard to describe without a picture... but you want all the shear to be on the unthreaded shank of the bolt, not on the threaded portion of the bolt. By drilling out the box and lengthening the bolts and adding nuts you are adding in this feature by moving the threads of the bolt away from the frame. Its definitly not the biggest improvement by any means, but it does help.
Nobody said there will be "threads in bearing". These Grade 9 bolts are not full thread.
The hole to cut in the box needs to be just enough to chase any remaining thread out; can't leave any stress risers.
Please bear with me, I've been a Spacecraft Engineer for almost thirty years.:D
 
I was agreeing with you... just trying to put some more useful info out there that will help with what your doing. If you look at the original design of the steering box bolts you will see the threads are in bearing many times (I've seen loose boxes with the threads damaged as a result). So by drilling out the box you help eliminate another problem you didn't mention at first ;)
 
kennyw said:
I was agreeing with you... just trying to put some more useful info out there that will help with what your doing. If you look at the original design of the steering box bolts you will see the threads are in bearing many times (I've seen loose boxes with the threads damaged as a result). So by drilling out the box you help eliminate another problem you didn't mention at first ;)
I've done all the Engineering possible, up to the point of yanking my box and encounter those "devil details". I do not want to wade into CK5 unless everything has been through the ringer.:D
 
My box keeps coming loose after the weld in kit. Looking for some more info on whats mentioned in this thread, or something similar.
 

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