dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
When I get to that point (alignment) is there a how to, or write up, on how to do a garage alignment job? that will be a first for me.
CK5
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"Gredda's" Build / WTF / Help Me! Thread
- Thread starter dieselndixie
- Start date
owenst7
1/2 ton status
I don't think anyone has bothered drafting a writeup because it is so simple. I know if you use google and site:coloradok5.com you will get tons of threads where it is discussed. The only way I would pay someone to align one of these trucks is if I was making like 2x/hour what it would cost for an alignment. Theres no way I'd pay a guy an hour of labor just to set my toe and verify camber (if you have balljoints, kingpin axles are not intended to be adjustable).
All you need is an angle finder (optional) and tape measure. These trucks don't have anywhere near the adjustability that you get with a link suspension or IFS. Notice how you rarely hear of alignment issues with these versus say an XJ or an old Ford. The toe is really the only variable. You can center the steering wheel but that isn't remotely as important as with an inverted y system where it would screw up the toe on the passenger tire, and there's no panhard to worry about centering the axle and/or bumpsteer.
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
random...but its my thread so I will be as random as I want 
so my front bumper jumped out and hit something while I was playing around at the ranch. I want to eventually build my own, VERY simple. but, is there any harm in just running it without a bumper at all? thoughts? im even open to cheap alternatives. all i really want is a winch
so my front bumper jumped out and hit something while I was playing around at the ranch. I want to eventually build my own, VERY simple. but, is there any harm in just running it without a bumper at all? thoughts? im even open to cheap alternatives. all i really want is a winch
Imo, you need to run something. I took off a good bumper, ran nothing for about a month or two, then tried to put the bumper back on, frame was tweaked. The bumper acts like one more crossmember. You could see the frame moving on mine when I turned the wheels. I got a cheap pushbar and bolted that on till I built my bumper to hold it in place.
KP
KP
smier
1/2 ton status
My Haynes manuals usually include a page with color photos to compare your spark plugs to. It will also give you causes and symptoms that the old spark plugs can tell you about each cylinder, ideally you would want every spark plug to look the same with a brown to grayish tan color. I say ideally, because we are talking about a 20 year old truck with a fair amount of miles on it.
Yes, the throttle body can be cleaned. It seems pretty intimidating at first, but it's not really as bad as it seems. It's a good idea to get a set of line wrenches and be careful not to mess up the hard fuel lines. It's a good time to put a gasket set into it as well. I got one from advanced auto from BWD( I think it cost about $45) that included the diaphragm for the fuel pressure regulator as well. Mine took me about 3 hours an several cans of throttle body cleaner. Just take your time, study the diagram and the instructions before you start and you will be fine... I was amazed at how much crud and gunk was built up into all the little passages, I had a noticable improvement after cleaning and rebuilding mine, but mine was pretty gummed up.
Yes, the throttle body can be cleaned. It seems pretty intimidating at first, but it's not really as bad as it seems. It's a good idea to get a set of line wrenches and be careful not to mess up the hard fuel lines. It's a good time to put a gasket set into it as well. I got one from advanced auto from BWD( I think it cost about $45) that included the diaphragm for the fuel pressure regulator as well. Mine took me about 3 hours an several cans of throttle body cleaner. Just take your time, study the diagram and the instructions before you start and you will be fine... I was amazed at how much crud and gunk was built up into all the little passages, I had a noticable improvement after cleaning and rebuilding mine, but mine was pretty gummed up.
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
for those that have sprayed a bedliner into the rear...are there any issues with me just spraying the rear portion for now...then deciding later if i want to spray the cab area?
i know some dont like the interior sprayed, but my muddy dogs and dirtbike gear needs the back to be sprayed.
it was carpeted and un rusted. I pulled it all (it was pretty gross) i want to cover it now while its perfect and non scratched or rusted.
i know some dont like the interior sprayed, but my muddy dogs and dirtbike gear needs the back to be sprayed.
it was carpeted and un rusted. I pulled it all (it was pretty gross) i want to cover it now while its perfect and non scratched or rusted.
You need to remove the rest of the padding and sticky stuff from the wheel wells. A 2" putty knife/scraper and a hand held propane/MAP gas torch will take care of that. Be sure to paint any bare metal spots with some good primer before any bedliner goes down.
I Herculined the cab part of mine and left the bed area as is for now, carpet removed from all. Do yourself a favor and go ahead and remove the carpet and padding from the cab so that you can just hose it all out. Also good for when the top is off and it rains, there is nothing there to hold all that water. If you're gonna do it yourself, make sure to take the time to prep the areas as per the instructions and keep everything clean clean clean. Mine has been done for a year now with no complaints, gonna do the bed area this year.
Before...
After...
I Herculined the cab part of mine and left the bed area as is for now, carpet removed from all. Do yourself a favor and go ahead and remove the carpet and padding from the cab so that you can just hose it all out. Also good for when the top is off and it rains, there is nothing there to hold all that water. If you're gonna do it yourself, make sure to take the time to prep the areas as per the instructions and keep everything clean clean clean. Mine has been done for a year now with no complaints, gonna do the bed area this year.
Before...
After...
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
cool, I sprayed the tub of my CJ7 so, I know it takes ALOT of prep work. But, I was the most concerned with spraying the rear, then coming back later if I decide to spray the front...and having an overlap.
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
still working on the glue. got a torch and a scraper, but its still pretty stubborn. Also, removed the rear side windows so that I can paint the top. I need to replace the inner "sliding" stripping for the side windows...they wont slide well at all because the felt liner in the rails is all dried and broken.
I plan on just taking a scotch brite pad to the exterior of the top, and the rattle can some self filling primer. Then hit it with satin black with my sray gun. Not going to fancy, but looking for that "hard to tell it was garage sprayed" I have done well before on motorcycles just going over the top with prep work, and really light coats. we shall see.
I also got the replacement weather stripping that goes between the top and the body. Going to replace that after spraying.
starting to think maybe i should just spray bedliner in the whole thing, instead of just the back...
btw, i am going to be getting rid of my rear interior side panels with speakers and as trays. Is this something worth listing on my local craigslist, or are they just yard art?
I plan on just taking a scotch brite pad to the exterior of the top, and the rattle can some self filling primer. Then hit it with satin black with my sray gun. Not going to fancy, but looking for that "hard to tell it was garage sprayed" I have done well before on motorcycles just going over the top with prep work, and really light coats. we shall see.
I also got the replacement weather stripping that goes between the top and the body. Going to replace that after spraying.
starting to think maybe i should just spray bedliner in the whole thing, instead of just the back...
btw, i am going to be getting rid of my rear interior side panels with speakers and as trays. Is this something worth listing on my local craigslist, or are they just yard art?
Last edited:
smier
1/2 ton status
I would hang on to the interior side panels, you may decide to put them back in. Some guys really complain about the noise after pulling their interiors out. Yours appear to be in good shape, you should be able to sell them pretty easily. I'm actually thinking of making new panels out of some plastic paneling and then bedlining them to help with some of the noise in my truck. I'm planning on having the top off quite a bit this year, I just don't want anything that will hold moisture and promote rust. I'd remove them altogether except they make really nice places to mount speakers and hide wiring.
Yeah, having no interior annoys me on my new Blazer. I would keep the front end carpeted, and keep the interior panels. Otherwise it gets really loud in there. If I could find someone close to me getting rid of a gray interior, I would gladly take it.
Martin
Martin
magik235
Still Alive
I am a fan of Herculiner. You can stop and start with just a little sanding on the already finished section. I would consider just brushing and rolling instead of spraying. Check out my build threads to see multiple examples of how I have used Herculiner. One example is below.
I took my side panels out and threw them in the trash (they were pretty much junk) and don't miss them at all. The noise difference was minimal. I bought a couple of those premade 6x9 speaker boxes for the rear speakers and they sound OK. Used some angle brackets and self tapping screws to anchor them to the inner bedside.
Your side panels look good enough to sell, try listing them here on CK5 in the classified section. Someone may need them.
Your side panels look good enough to sell, try listing them here on CK5 in the classified section. Someone may need them.
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
cool.
yeah, i just pulled my old 6x9 in boxes that were in my CJ, and i am going to mount them. I dont care much about noise...this is a toy/dirt bike hauler only, so i can deal with it.
the panels are decent, so hoepfully someone can use them.
I dont want to ask, buz I have read a thousand opinions of roll on vs spray on bedliner. but i really dont know which way to go. i like the idea of the herculiner and the price...but I had good luck with a spray on kit i got on ebay for like $99. it worked perfect in my cj.
Oh, and for those that saw my pics of my bent up tie rod....I ordered the 1.5" HD one from ORD!
Cant wait.
yeah, i just pulled my old 6x9 in boxes that were in my CJ, and i am going to mount them. I dont care much about noise...this is a toy/dirt bike hauler only, so i can deal with it.
the panels are decent, so hoepfully someone can use them.
I dont want to ask, buz I have read a thousand opinions of roll on vs spray on bedliner. but i really dont know which way to go. i like the idea of the herculiner and the price...but I had good luck with a spray on kit i got on ebay for like $99. it worked perfect in my cj.
Oh, and for those that saw my pics of my bent up tie rod....I ordered the 1.5" HD one from ORD!
Cant wait.
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
got a question...
truck is not driveable with the current bent up tie rod. I just got the new ORD tie rod in, and want to install it.
but, I plan on replacing the drag links, ball joints, wheel bearings as well. I need to drive the k5 for a few weeks because i just sold my daily driver....am i working against myself by installing the new tie rod before i do the drag links, etc? or do i need to replace those things all at the same time?
thanks
truck is not driveable with the current bent up tie rod. I just got the new ORD tie rod in, and want to install it.
but, I plan on replacing the drag links, ball joints, wheel bearings as well. I need to drive the k5 for a few weeks because i just sold my daily driver....am i working against myself by installing the new tie rod before i do the drag links, etc? or do i need to replace those things all at the same time?
thanks
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
holy crap...i just took the ORD 1.5" HD tie rod out of the box. This thing is SERIOUS! I was not picturing this thing to be this beefy. You could probably jack up the truck with this tie rod!
anyway, im about to take the current tie rod and the ends off. I am going to try and leave it all in tact (both pieces and the sleeve) so I can match up the length of the old setup and the new setup.
can i just use my impact wrench with the fork end to pull the old tie rods out? or do i need to run to the auto parts store to borrow a tie rod fork.
anyway, im about to take the current tie rod and the ends off. I am going to try and leave it all in tact (both pieces and the sleeve) so I can match up the length of the old setup and the new setup.
can i just use my impact wrench with the fork end to pull the old tie rods out? or do i need to run to the auto parts store to borrow a tie rod fork.
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
Well, I did it....I replaced the bent tie rod with the ord rod. I still need to replace the wheel bearings, ball joints, and drag links...but I needed to have a drivable vehicle for a few weeks.
anyway, here are some before and after pics. I used my floor jack to straighten the tie rod as much as possible, then measured from zerk to zerk.(had to add just a hair, since it was still bent, and actually shorter than it should be) Recorded that distance, then setup the new tie rod to be the same. Once, I installed it, I used 38377k5's tow alignment method. I soon found out, the setup that i had before was off. So I corrected it. The rear measurement is now 1/8" longer than the front.
anyway, here are some before and after pics. I used my floor jack to straighten the tie rod as much as possible, then measured from zerk to zerk.(had to add just a hair, since it was still bent, and actually shorter than it should be) Recorded that distance, then setup the new tie rod to be the same. Once, I installed it, I used 38377k5's tow alignment method. I soon found out, the setup that i had before was off. So I corrected it. The rear measurement is now 1/8" longer than the front.
dieselndixie
1/2 ton status
few more shots
magik235
Still Alive
Much better. How does it drive with the new tie rod?
