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Grey Goose

Overview Gallery Discussion
  • Displacement (cu. in.): 350
  • Bore x Stroke (in.): 4.000 x 3.480
  • Block (P/N 10066034): Cast-iron with four-bolt main caps
  • Crankshaft (P/N 93426651): Nodular iron
  • Connecting Rods (P/N 10108688): Powdered-metal steel
  • Pistons (P/N 93422884): Cast-aluminum
  • Camshaft Type (P/N 3896962): Hydraulic flat tappet
  • Camshaft Lift (in.): .450 intake /.460 exhaust
  • Camshaft Duration (@.050 in.): 222° intake / 222° exhaust
  • Cylinder Heads (P/N 93438648): Iron; 76-cc chambers
  • Valve Size (in.): 1.94 intake / 1.50 exhaust
  • Compression Ratio: 8.0:1
  • Rocker Arms (P/N 10089648): Stamped steel
  • Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1
  • Recommended Fuel: Regular pump
  • Ignition Timing: 32° Total @ 4,000 rpm
  • Maximum Recommended rpm: 5100
  • Balanced: Internal
Here is my new engines specs. I just went with a Chevy performance crate. The vortec engine my bud sold me had a few issues with pitted cylinders. He ended up giving me my $300 back and let me keep the engine. He’s also giving me a NOS Kit which I really wana put in but I feel that would be a bad idea as a 18 year old teenager @Bent77 @Abusfullofnuns
 
My favorite thing about installing N2O for someone is watching them pick up the pieces of their rods and pistons that come out of the side of their block. N20 isn't good for an engine that was designed for N2O, much less one that's not. My vote would be no, but I do like to see shit get mangled. I've seen it a good bit, even with limiters in place.

Glad you are almost back rolling. Good choice on the crate motor.
 
My advice is that you’ve got an engine with a warranty, keep it that way and you’ll be happy you did.
 
78K30 said:
My advice is that you’ve got an engine with a warranty, keep it that way and you’ll be happy you did.
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Yeah I plan on keep it within it’s warranty conditions till it’s up then we will see how much money I have and if I want to make any fun upgrades to the engine
 
@Bent77 so quick question I take it that my gearing lift and tires all kill my mpg.

If I swapped my 4.56 gears to something like 3.73 or something around there would there be a noticeable increase in gas millage and would changing them make me sluggish off of a stop on 36x14.50 tires
 
Probably wont effect mileage that much, just make it doggier which makes the engine work harder, thus offsetting any plausible gains
 
Bent77 said:
Probably wont effect mileage that much, just make it doggier which makes the engine work harder, thus offsetting any plausible gains
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So quick thing I have my engine in bolted to the trans can u help me come up with a check list of things I need to hook back up
 
Carb’d or FI?

Fuel line
Electrical(tach, etc)
starter
controls(throttle cable)
Coolant(rad and heater)
Exhaust
Battery

Probably more, but off the top of my head while sitting in a meeting.
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
Carb’d or FI?

Fuel line
Electrical(tach, etc)
starter
controls(throttle cable)
Coolant(rad and heater)
Exhaust
Battery

Probably more, but off the top of my head while sitting in a meeting.
Click to expand...

Bent77 said:
It’ll be a bit
Yes we can help with that, thanks @Abusfullofnuns
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It’s carbbed currently I have my carb on and fuel lines hooked up. My main thing is the wiring harness I remember what goes to the lights etc. I take it the harness needs to connect to the distributor some how. It’s the little stuff with the wiring to the engine is my main issue
 
Also I have a question about my turn signals / Radio

1. The turn signals don’t blink they will just come on and stay a solid color in the rear and front and then on the passenger side they will come on and stay on and blink every like 20-30 seconds

2. The radio works sometimes. I put a brand new radio in when I got the truck the radio is hooked up properly or as properly as I could get it. But it will randomly cut out and won’t come back on for a random amount of time then I’ll drive over a small rock or bounce around off-road it will come back on for a bit just to cut back out later
 
With your turn signals are all of the bulbs good? Do the 4-ways act the same way? If you have any plugs on the harness that you don’t recognize just post up a picture I’m sure we can help identify them. Anymore when I take stuff apart I take pictures with my phone so if it’s a few weeks before it goes together I’ve got a reference.
 
78K30 said:
With your turn signals are all of the bulbs good? Do the 4-ways act the same way? If you have any plugs on the harness that you don’t recognize just post up a picture I’m sure we can help identify them. Anymore when I take stuff apart I take pictures with my phone so if it’s a few weeks before it goes together I’ve got a reference.
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Do you know good wheel spacer brands need to space the front to fit my 36s to keep them from rubbing my steering?
 
modhunt said:
Do you know good wheel spacer brands need to space the front to fit my 36s to keep them from rubbing my steering?
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That's something I cannot help much with. I have never actually purchased a set of spacers before. Only reason my jeep has them is it came with them. For what I use my truck for I avoid them at all costs
 
These ones were recommended to me by my old tire shop in Moab. They look good for the price but I have never bought any from them yet.
https://www.ezaccessory.com/
You can also buy 1/4" ones from Napa that just slip over the studs if your studs are long enough. I have longer dually studs on the front of mine and installed the slip on 1/4" spacers with some silicone to make them more permanent to the hub face.
 
The smaller one closest to your wrist should be purple and it goes to the small stud on the solenoid closest to the block. The others go to the large stud next to the small stud. Take your time and route the wires VERY carefully away from the header. The big pos from your battery goes on the same large stud as the other red wires. Repair or replace any bare wires!
The holly guys can answer the carb ?s
 
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