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ground wire guage

cegusman

cegusman

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What gauge wire do I need to ground the engine to the frame? Batteries will be grounded to the frame using 0 guage welding cable. Thinking 0 gauge is too much to just go to the engine to the frame. Batteries are going to be mounted in the rear thats why they are going to be grounded to the frame.
 
I'm using 1 gauge welding cable from batt's to frame (mounted middle of the truck) and frame to engine also 1 gauge cause it's what I have. There are a couple of 10-12 gauge frame to body grounds already, and my engine to body strap is also still in place.

Rene
 
basically what I'm doing only I'm doing the "Big 3" mod. Its more of a caraudio standpoint but it works just as well to make sure suffecient current flows. 0/1 Gauge wire is what I'm using. Thats battery to alt, battery to ground, engine to ground.
 
TeK said:
basically what I'm doing only I'm doing the "Big 3" mod. Its more of a caraudio standpoint but it works just as well to make sure suffecient current flows. 0/1 Gauge wire is what I'm using. Thats battery to alt, battery to ground, engine to ground.
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When doing to batt to alt, dont forget the fuse between the 2

The big 3 worked well for me.
 
But you don't have to fuse. I left the stock battery to alt cable there and just threw on another one that was 0/1 Gauge. I've done the Big 3 on about 8 vehicles now and never fused it once. Never had any problems either.
 
I just added a 0 Gage ground from the engine to frame and I noticed an improvement on my idle, fuel economy, and the passenger window role's up and down a lot faster. I guess the OEM Eng to body/frame ground was barley doing it. Took me 10 min to do and the cable was free so basally a free mod.
 
Something to keep in mind when putting a batt in the rear. The frame makes a lousy batt. cable for any length at all. Run it on the frame and see how it works for you. Then run the neg. batt cable all the way to the starter mounting bolts. Your voltmeter will immediately show you, and she'll spin over like never before.

Just my experiences. All my trucks now get the ground cable hooked to the starter mounting bolts with some washers pinching it all together.
 
To add to the above post; if you run a winch, never ground the winch to the frame. Always go to the battery.
 
To further cyberfire's post, always ground the battey(ies) to the engine. Then ground the engine to the frame. Use the same size ground cable as the hot cable.
Engine to frame gound doesn't need to be as big since starting current doesn't flow thru it.
Also second the comment that frames make poor conductors, run a full length ground cable.
 
I can't believe that no one mentioned Eddy currents and how RFI/EMI affect the grounding properties of a chassis ground. Could just be beyond the scope here.:thinking:
 
I do deal with that sort of crap when welding...occasionally having to move my ground clamp or wrap it around part of the work to combat 'arc blow'. I never really thought about how or if it could be a facxtor on my truck though. Care to elaborate any?

Rene
 
Not familiar with "arc blow" so I can't relate to that. I will try to make this a simple discussion so as not to confuse anyone.

First remember that you are not only trying to ground DC but also pulsing DC or commonly called AC. The AC part comes into play in an automotive application from the Injectors, Coil, Spark plug wires, and mostly the spark plugs.

When eddy currents develope on a round conductor they are at the surface of the conductor, not the core. This will affect the skin effect when talking about AC current. AC current travels along the surface of a conductor, and the eddy currents can basically turn a perfect DC ground into an AC open circuit.

That is the reason that most grounding straps are flat braided conductors. Eddy currents will have a smaller effect.
 
Well, arc blow is when magnetic fields created start pulling or pushing the arc and some of the transferred filler metal away from the puddle...almost like someone is blowing it out. Created a lot of undercut and a boatload of big brutal spatter.

First remember that you are not only trying to ground DC but also pulsing DC or commonly called AC. The AC part comes into play in an automotive application from the Injectors, Coil, Spark plug wires, and mostly the spark plugs.
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No coil, no spark plug wires, no spark plugs and mechanical injectors...I should be fine. :D

I do appreciate the explanation though.

Rene
 
Cool, I just learned somehting new.

Remember that my explanation is a very simple one. Also if you run a CB radio the RFI can cause lots of eddy currents on all the ground wires. Essentially electrically isolating the truck body from ground.
 
readymix said:
I can't believe that no one mentioned Eddy currents and how RFI/EMI affect the grounding properties of a chassis ground. Could just be beyond the scope here.:thinking:
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Ground loops could be an issue with anything computerized, but my admittedly limited exposure to Eddy currents has been in far higher voltages & currents (save for starting), so I didn't think it was much or any of an issue.
 
It is not really an issue for most. But I run a high power comms gear in the truck. Plus I work on Radar and Weapons systems for a career so I deal with this all the time.
 
readymix said:
When eddy currents develope on a round conductor they are at the surface of the conductor, not the core. This will affect the skin effect when talking about AC current. AC current travels along the surface of a conductor, and the eddy currents can basically turn a perfect DC ground into an AC open circuit.

That is the reason that most grounding straps are flat braided conductors. Eddy currents will have a smaller effect.
Click to expand...
Is that like a glowing spark plug lead at night? Is it correct to say you can also mitigate field/surface current with shielded cable?
 
On a shielded cable, like co-ax, the eddy currents would develope on the shield and are shunted to ground. Thus not interfering with the signal on the center conductor.

Beyond that you could send signals on a tri-ax twisted pair cable in out of phase pairs. Thus virtually no signal loss. Then add in a few optical isolators and you get near perfect signal transmission........Then you need to deal with the eddys that would remain in the ground plane.

How many people did I loose on that one:eek1:
 
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