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Guess what I'm doing this weekend? Advice?

W7NB

W7NB

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 9, 2006
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Location
Springtucky, OR
springs.jpg

So for all you lift kit gurus, my question is do I go ahead and install the one inch zero rates I have on the back to save the time later, or will it take some time to sag on me? New Rough Country springs and from the comments I have seen it seems like most rear lift springs will sag over a short period of time.

Just figured I could save some effort later...

springs.jpg
 
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With the weight of the winch & front bumper, it might end up sagging the same amount front & rear. I say leave them out. It's a snap to install them later on if it becomes necessary. I'm suprised you chose to go with the replacement rear springs instead of a flip kit. Were your old rear springs sagging real bad?
 
Even with the zero rates they were lower then the front springs, but someone installed 3 leaf springs up front at some point. I just figured 17 year old springs with 200K plus miles had to go, so I went new all the way around.

Now that you mention it, I may have about equal sink with the extra weight up front.
 
my advice... send the rear springs back and do a shackle flip rear... but thats just if you want it to flex.
gabe
 
GEORGIA GABE said:
my advice... send the rear springs back and do a shackle flip rear... but thats just if you want it to flex.
gabe
Click to expand...

I have lift springs in the rear of mine and it flexes pretty damn good (at least as well as the guys I have run with that have shackle flips). It will do almost 900 on a 23 deg. RTI ramp, pretty damn good for a bolt on lift kit. Its a BDS lift, BTW.
 
I would be very happy to anywhere close. By the end of the weekend I'll have lockers in both ends plus the new springs - let the carnage begin!

I thought about the shackle flip, but would have needed new springs either way. I might do the flip later when I go 1 ton gear and bigger tires.
 
Here's one tip: Install the raised steering arm onto your new axle BEFORE you bolt the axle in. It's alot easier when you have room to really swing a hammer. I also got a roll of rubber hose and ran my axle breathers up into the engine compartment and mounted the ends at the top of the firewall when I did my axle swap. I still need to get some more hose and extend the tranny & t-case breathers though.
 
longer brake hoses, you can find part numbers in the part numbers thread..
good luck with it and be careful... and dont forget the BFH
GABE
 
This is why I love CK5! I'll stop at the parts store and get new bolts for the steering arm, a roll of hose for the breathers - I might run the rear axle breather through the floor and into the passenger compartment. That way I will KNOW if it got water in it:haha:

Gabe, ok on the BFH, but on the break lines, I have the drop down brackets - do you think the break lines will still be needed on a 4" lift?
 
The drop down brackets for the brakes are a little cheesy. They'll get you by for now but it would probably be a good idea to replace those 17 year old lines at some point in time. I wouldn't cut a hole in the floor, just run the breather hoses to the top of the firewall like I did. It's extremely easy and you'll hydrolock your engine before you'll suck water into the diffs. The steering arm uses studs & nuts, not bolts. Your kit should've came with 3 self locking nuts for bolting the new arm on. It's mostly straight forward but there's a few tips & tricks to installing a lift. Have you ever done one before?
 
On an IFS Chevy years ago, but it was pretty much bolt on stuff and go. I've helped other guys with lifts but have pretty much just been muscle and wrench turner.
 
I didnt use them at first and it was fine until the brake hose becomes the limiting strap when flexing...

Napa United: 38622, 38623

brakeline2.jpg
 
Waiting for replacement's for wrong bushings, plus decided to replace teh drag arms. Picks in my build thread later this week.
 
I dont think you have to worry about sag on a rough country lift. Spring rates are high. And they have an overload springs
As said. Get new longer brake hoses.
I have a rough Country 4" lift runing it hard, towing, and beating on it for a few years now and I still do not have saggy butt. It has settled a little bit but still level.
 
I ordered the new brake lines yesterday. I just wish I had seen Georgia Gabes post before I ordered them. I would have gone to Nappa for them instead of RC.

Glad to hear no sagging. I will be pulling a 4500lb boat so medium stiff won't be too bad.
 
I recant my earlier statement, If you will be pulling a boat then you deffinatly do not want to do a shackle flip. The lift springs would be the way to go.
gabe
 
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