H1 12 bolt run flats

[bigjbear]

I put one together last night and it was a major PITA. Basically here's what I did:
Separate all the parts
Fold the runflat in 1/2 with a ratchet strap and stuff it into the tire.
Set the tire/runflat over the "inner" rim half.
-This is where things went south, I had to use a brass drift to get the runflat far enough down.
Slip the bead lock part in.
Drop on the outer rim half, remembering to keep the valve stem and grove lined up.
Put on the nuts.
-next problem, I had to use an impact. I don't know if if its due to a combination of rust and paint or if they are supposed to be pinch lock nuts, but it took a lot more effort than my old 8 bolts did.

My guess to the first issue is I need to lube the inside of the runflat part with some soapy water. For the second one maybe run a tap through the nuts and a die over the studs. That ought to make the other 3 go a lot easier.

Now for the real question. Since Hutchinson makes these and a similar design for the consumer market, has anyone bought the bead lock part from them? From the pics I've seen it looks like one solid rubber band similar to the outer half of these.

Any other tip from people using the rubber run flats? Has anyone cut the rubber run flat off, similar to what the guys using the mag runflats do? It doesn't seen like pinching would be an issue with the rubber ones, though. Add in the fact that the tires are 39.5 swampers, and these are made for 37s it makes me think it will be a non-issue.

 

[resurrected_jimmy]

For the run flats we always lube the with a GAA, Grease: Automotive/Artillery.... hey its what we've got and align stuff with a tankers bar. When we change tires and have to reuse rims its always a major PITA to get the nuts back on the studs. They fight the whole way down and just about have to be put on with an impact or your gonna be there for several hours with a big cheater bar on a ratchet tightening bolts.

All in all, I'd say yours went together just fine.

 

[kwissman]

I just did my 12 bolt h1 wheels a few weeks back. I did three by hand and it was no fun. My compressor decided that it did not want to work the day before. The nuts are very tight. The wheels I had were all new and I felt like crap the next week from tightening them down. I have one more to do, but I have to get a new oring.

 

[DieselDan]

Uhg

GAA=bad for tire. Use silicone grease (runflat lube).

 

[bigjbear]

Thanks for the tips. Is the use of grease instead of soap or bead lube more to assist in the removal next time? Or it just what the millitary calls out?

 

[resurrected_jimmy]

GAA is just what we have readily available because everything else calls for it. I agree with DieselDan silicone would be better and yes if you look up the NSN for runflat lube it is silicone but we don't have silicone lube laying around in 5 gallon buckets. It would probably be more of an issue if our tires ever lived a long enough life for the GAA to have an adverse effect on the rubber. Over the last 15 months I've been through roughly six sets of tires......

For breaking the rims back down I've never used lube to get them apart. If we need to reuse the runflat we usually cut the sidewall out of the tire and pull it out that way. Another good trick for runflat removal is to use a choker strap around the runflat and squeeze it down/ pull it out with a winch. use another strap or two to anchor the tire for this process.

Something I forgot to add to my earlier post you asked about. I have a set of HMMWV rims at home and I plan on cutting the runflat portion off when I set them up. I'm thinking of leaving around 3/4" of the runflat in place to act as a spine for the beadlock portion of the insert.

 

[bigjbear]

If that's the case I'll probably just use soap based bead lube, since it's what I have here.