What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

H2 wheels and tires installed today...I'm happy with them...pics inside

Out of curiosity i went out and weighed one the tire/wheel combo is right at 89 lbs so with the official weight of a 315/70/r17 from bfg shipping info comes in at 64.1 lbs per tire bringing the weight to a feathery 24.9lbs. so lets compare how heavy these h2 wheels are compared to other 17 inch offroad wheels. (btw most of your wheel weight comes from tires)
------------------
tire weights (Holy crap some of the 37+ are over 100lbs per tire!!)
bfg km2 35x12.5r15 = 61 lbs look under specs for tire weights.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=Mud-Terrain+T%2FA+KM2&partnum=725QR7KM2RWL
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Wrangler+MT/R+with+Kevlar&partnum=725QR7WMTRK
------------------
wheel weights.


Pro Comp 52 Flat Black Wheel (17x8" / 5x5") by Pro Comp 38lbs


Mickey Thompson Classic II Polished Wheel (17x... by Mickey Thompson 26 lbs

now if your h2 wheels are the late model like this one thos things clock in at 40 lbs or more.
Hummer-Rim.gif
 
I am running h2 rims with 35/12.5 toyo m/t. I got lug nuts that are the correct English thread for my axles and have the outer threads for mounting center caps. I got a set of center caps from a 2500hd Chevy pickup. The rears go on as-is. I used a hole saw to cut the centers out of the caps for the front wheels. With warn hubs that have the brass colored centers, it almost looks like the Bowie. The hubs stick out less than a half inch from the face of the center caps. It makes things look clean.
 
mwgasman said:
I am running h2 rims with 35/12.5 toyo m/t. I got lug nuts that are the correct English thread for my axles and have the outer threads for mounting center caps. I got a set of center caps from a 2500hd Chevy pickup. The rears go on as-is. I used a hole saw to cut the centers out of the caps for the front wheels. With warn hubs that have the brass colored centers, it almost looks like the Bowie. The hubs stick out less than a half inch from the face of the center caps. It makes things look clean.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I have planned whenever I can score a deal on a set of GMC caps.
 
when you tightened your u-bolts did you check to see if the leaf spring center pin was broken?

If you drove around much with loose u-bolts there is a good chance that it broke that pin.
 
big dan said:
when you tightened your u-bolts did you check to see if the leaf spring center pin was broken?

If you drove around much with loose u-bolts there is a good chance that it broke that pin.
Click to expand...

Damn, I sure didn't. It seemed as though when I discovered the problem yesterday that all the movement that had happened was centered around the pin as a pivot point, so I'm inclined to say it's still in place. Also, I dropped the front end slightly from the spring and did some work to my rear shackle, taking it completely loose and never had any front/back, side/side motion between the two. Perhaps that's just my wishful thinking though...
 
I weighed my spare H2 and 315/70 BFG A/T (it's like new) and it came in at 95 pounds.

The Burb looks good with those H2s on there! Even with the chrome. I'd wait till the chrome starts peeling off before blasting and painting them.
 
I have them on my Burb as well, 2nd gen style H2 wheel,, I like the look of them, the only thing I don't really care for is the narrow track width.

Looking from behind the tires seem too tucked inward, looking alittle weird.

I had some 15" steelies on before these that had a 3.5" back space, It looked alittle more aggressive and I got alot of good comments on the look of the truck then.

Seriously considering some short spacers on mine just to kick them back out a couple of inches.
 
Just a thought but check your drag link. High backspacing wheels with wide tires can put the tire into the drag link on hard right turns. Had that happen on my M1008 and had to limit the right turn steering stop after I ate up a drag link boot and guts.

I thought the tire was rubbing the frame or the wheel well at first...nope.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Just a thought but check your drag link. High backspacing wheels with wide tires can put the tire into the drag link on hard right turns. Had that happen on my M1008 and had to limit the right turn steering stop after I ate up a drag link boot and guts.

I thought the tire was rubbing the frame or the wheel well at first...nope.
Click to expand...

On mine, it is real close, you basically can't run inside wheel weights, has to be exterior mounted or the inside sticky ones, and yes, it does slightly rub from now and then, mainly while I was wheelin', I know this because the rubber dust boot was removed by the tire.. :tongue1:

Regular street driving though I don't think it's a real major issue.
 
4xcrazy said:
Seriously considering some short spacers on mine just to kick them back out a couple of inches.
Click to expand...

I would really like a little wider stance out of these wheels, as well. The stock steel ones I was running weren't too great either, plus the tires were small, so with the lift it looked kinda funny. These are much, much better, but I'd still like a wider track. I've thought about a spacer as well. I know a lot of people are vehemently opposed to them for various reasons, but I think if installed correctly (loc-tite, for one) they are ok. The whole truck is held together with bolts, so no reason to think these would fail before any others I guess. I realize the possibility of added stress to the wheel bearings, but with the massive backspacing of these wheels, I don't know that a spacer wouldn't actually bring the wheel and tire center of mass closer to being in line with the center of the wheel mount surface anyway. And I think the added leverage of a spacer would be certainly less than that of an extremely negatively backspaced wheel, as well. Just my thoughts.
 
Spacers are a huge nono.. adapters on the other hand are just fine. spacers put way to much stress on the lugs and will easily sheer off.
 
Safari-K5 said:
Spacers are a huge nono.. adapters on the other hand are just fine. spacers put way to much stress on the lugs and will easily sheer off.
Click to expand...

The physics behind them are exactly the same. What difference would it make if you were using an adapter and going to a different bolt pattern or a spacer and retaining the same one? Most people are under the assumption that spacers are the devil's doing and probably could never be convinced otherwise. Like I said, the whole truck is held together with nuts and bolts. Properly used, these are just as safe as anything else.
 
To clarify, I am referring to a machined piece with it's own studs that gets bolted securely in place of the wheel and then, with the new studs, mounts the wheel. Not referring to a simple piece of plate that adds clearance between the WMS and the wheel and uses the same, or longer, wheel studs. Sorry if that came off wrong.
 
shiner2001 said:
To clarify, I am referring to a machined piece with it's own studs that gets bolted securely in place of the wheel and then, with the new studs, mounts the wheel. Not referring to a simple piece of plate that adds clearance between the WMS and the wheel and uses the same, or longer, wheel studs. Sorry if that came off wrong.
Click to expand...

You have the right ones then. Sorry for jumping the gun there. Just makeing sure wheels dont go flying and killing people. I really wish they had a diffrent name for the adapters, because technically it is a spacer and adapter at the same time.
 
Safari-K5 said:
Sorry bout that. when most people talk about spacers they are referring to a simple drilled aluminum rings that offer no support and place tremendous loads on the lugs. what you are talking about is the correct way to move the hub out. sorry about the misunderstanding.
Click to expand...

Sorry bout that as well. I am basically talking about an adapter that doesn't adapt anything, but whose only purpose is as a spacer. Confusing terminology on my part. But we're on the same page I think :thumb:
 
ChrisPerry said:
Drive the truck forward and backward in the driveway to be sure the wheels are pointed straight forward. Being careful not to turn the wheels, disconnect the draglink from the pitman arm. Turn the steering wheel one way to full lock, count the revolutions as you turn it back the other way to the opposite lock. Now center the steering wheel half way between the two extremes. You can now adjust the draglink length until you can reassemble without moving the other components. This will make sure the steering box is properly centered.
Click to expand...

Did this today and now have much more balanced left/right steering. I must have been just a shade off of eyeballing center when I parked it as my steering wheel is still not quite centered, but I think it's close enough I can adjust it out with the drag link sleeve and won't notice too much of a discrepancy in my steering box center. Many thanks for the advice...so simple it hurts!!
 
I guess I'm getting old. I like how the H2 rims keep the tires in the wheel wells. It keeps the truck much cleaner. I have had enough lifted trucks with mud tires out past the fenders for one lifetime. I'm sick of getting stuff flung all over the side of the truck.
 
mwgasman said:
I guess I'm getting old. I like how the H2 rims keep the tires in the wheel wells. It keeps the truck much cleaner. I have had enough lifted trucks with mud tires out past the fenders for one lifetime. I'm sick of getting stuff flung all over the side of the truck.
Click to expand...

What I'd really like is some Bushwacker pocket flares, but I need a wider track to keep them from looking funny. As it is now, I dig it too though.

(Totally backwards from the original intention of a fender flare, huh? Tailoring your tires to them instead of vice versa).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom