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Hardtop side windows - which to keep?

TheAustrian

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I have two hardtops. One with the full glass side window and one with the sliding side window with new sliding side window seals. Which one would you keep? Is there really an advantage of the sliding side windows compared to the full glass type?

T.A.
 
i have the full glass. i think i would like to have the sliding if i had a choice but thats just me. so you could get more air in the back when you do have the top on when its warm out.but i guess it depends on what you want
 
OK mine had full glass and it was ok but hot in summer. I don't run with the rear window down because I want to live.

IMG_0475.jpg


I got mine and since my seals DID NOT leak I did not want to chance it by pulling them. So I keep the originals in.

DSC00130.jpg


It was easy to do. If you decide to do it let me know. It is to darn cold out (-21 f Chill factor 4f) to go get some pics to help explain it.
 
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So you mean they are worth to change the windows from the hardtop? Because the hardtop I have now on the blazer (which I got recently) has full glass. How difficult is it to change the glasses?
 
I would go with full glass. "I have sliders on my blaze. They leak and are easy to break-in too.

Ray
 
It's easy. Just pull the center out of your molding, and push the window out (from the inside out). Then put the molding back with the new siders. Last is to put the center peice back into the molding. It's the same for the windsheild. I would do it when it's warm out, and might want some lube to help it strech over.
 
I wouldn't go back to solids unless I broke a slider. (I kept my solids just incase)
 
skyyk5 said:
I wouldn't go back to solids unless I broke a slider. (I kept my solids just incase)

well, in my case I would have to go back to slides since the current hardtop has full glass. Further in Austria it is usually not so hot, max. 35° celsius and my truck has aircon. Also I heard from some others already that the slides tend to leak...
 
RAY said:
I would go with full glass. "I have sliders on my blaze. They leak and are easy to break-in too.

Ray

All side glass in these are easy to break into Ray! Brick, or just pull the locking rubber! I will go look for the thread I had about doing this.

As for worth changing look at my pics make its a whole different truck. I like it feel a little less fish bowl. Also gives me a little less eye shopping to see what I have inside.
 
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Found it you can modify this as he had sliders that leaked but it gives you the ideal

Metrodps said:
Here is how I did my window change as BK said it was easy to do. You will need two flat head screw drivers and spray bottle of soapy water. A very small flat head to reinstall lock rubber. *if you have a window install tool works best about $5.00 for it. Looks like a pick with a pigs tail end.

1.) looking at window from outside you will see a little metal clip in the middle of rubber at the bottom. Take a small screw driver and pop that out.

2.) You will now see a small gap between the inner rubber strip. Take one end of it and pull it out in a lifting manor (away from truck).

3.) Now you will need two flat head screw drivers. Start a few inches from the lower rear corner and insert one screw driver in under the lip of the metal frame. Next spray some soapy liquid on rubber and insert other screw driver and work it around to lift the frame/glass out of rubber. *works best going to top.

4.) Once you get the rear upper corner out it is a breeze. Keep going till you have most of the top out of rubber. At this point you can pull the frame/glass out.

5.) I took the seals out and cleaned them in warm water to get crude and old black goop off. I used a butter knife to get it clean (DO NOT LET YOUR WIFE SEE YOU DO THIS). :mad: :bow:

6.) After they were dry I put a thin bead of black RTV on the fiberglass lip and placed rubber onto it.

7.) I then placed the lip of the frame/glass in to the front corner of rubber and started to wards the rear. Using the screw driver to pop the outer lip out at the rear and worked on up and over to toward the front. *you will need the soapy liquid from time to time.

8.) Once you have it in you will take the thin rubber piece that you pulled in step 2. Start in the middle bottom and insert it into the gap in the rubber *I used a small flat head to push the upper edge down into channel. The best way to describe this motion is kind of like a wrist flick or reverse knock.

9.) Now if you did every thing right you should have a little extra locking rubber when you get to bottom *(stretches when you pull it). Cut this as close to the other end as you can (about 1/4 inch).

10.) Now you will replace the metal clip pull both ends out just so you can slide them into the clip. Now press it into the grove.
 
My sliders don't leak at all. They came from a 76 out of a junk yard. As for breaking into them, Ever thought about your door vent windows, priity easy to get in though then. I don't even lock my K5. I figure that i rather have someone open the door, rather han break a window or slash a soft top. It happened to me already. Nice info Metrodps!
 
I had t tops in my z-28 and everyone was like yours don't leak? I sprayed silicone on the rubber seals from when they were new. On my sliders I sprayed the felt and made sure the little drain holes were clear.

If your sliders leak check the drain holes. If your felt is bad replace it.
SIDE WINDOW WEATHERSTRIP / BLAZER / JIMMY Part#75968
http://www.cheyennepickup.com/

I posted about this site before but people miss it it has a boat load of hard to find things. EVEN the latches for sliders!
 
Metrodps said:
If your sliders leak check the drain holes. If your felt is bad replace it.
SIDE WINDOW WEATHERSTRIP / BLAZER / JIMMY Part#75968
http://www.cheyennepickup.com/

I posted about this site before but people miss it it has a boat load of hard to find things. EVEN the latches for sliders!
I checked that site out last time you posted it. It's sweet, thanx.:D
 
Because it sucks the exhaust in. My pipes come out just behind the rear tires to the sides. I have heard others say the same also.
 
jimmy1984 said:
In response to what Metrodps said i was just wondering why is it bad to drive with the rear window down
Because of your exhaust coming in. When driving there is a back pressure tha sucks it in. Try it with your other windows closed, then open you will see the difference. I had a oil burning K5 that I was ready to die in since the back window would not go up. Its not bad with the top off.
 
THe sliding ones are a lot heavier, cant really imagine why there'd be such a difference but compare with my buddies full glass from a '78 and my '77 sliders mine is significantly heavier...but then again who needs a top anyways
 
I've had both, our climate is similar, not worth it IMO.

They leak, parts are harder to get (and there are way more) the wing windows loosen up, the screws holding them together are steel and the frame is aluminum (so they won't come out if you need to try and fix the wing windows) and so on.

If they don't leak and work perfect, the sliders are fine. But driving with stock exhaust, door windows and tailgate down is also fine. Not much exhaust in as long as you don't allow the exhaust to linger inside the truck.
 

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