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Has anyone converted their 89-91 K5 with 150mm headlights to 165mm headlights?

So anyway, doing some eyeball measurements, I can't see why these larger headlights won't fit. The openings for the 150mm headlamps are slightly larger anyway, and there are cut outs to allow access to the adjustment screws. I think I can easily cut away a tiny amount of the trim to fit the larger bulbs and re-cut the adjustment openings. Dremel tool to the rescue!

rdNWYl.jpg


The only real issue is mounting the headlamp buckets and the space between them. They may touch each other in the middle. :sign9:

Without knowing what the 165mm buckets look like I have no idea how they will mount either. However, as I recall from other cars, it's just two springs hold down two sides of the bucket, and then two adjusting screws on the other two sides of the bucket. So long as I can attach the springs and screws I should be able to just transplant them right in.
 
oh.....ok. you're going in a completely different direction than i was thinking. yea, you'll have to figure out what to do about that 7.5mm difference on each side of the center.....cool thinking though. i'll be watching this.
 
All this work, for a slightly larger bulb, and honestly, i don't believe it's going to gain ANY extra light output than the smaller ones.
 
any way you slice it it's a lot of work to swap stuff around......but you can get much better lights and output than the stock "newest" quads. i know i had great lights before.

does any company make quality housings for these?

pretty decent read here
 
my girlfriend bought me some hid lightforces last year for xmas. one things for sure i dont even notice if i switch my high beams on or off.

IMAG0119.jpg
 
All this work, for a slightly larger bulb, and honestly, i don't believe it's going to gain ANY extra light output than the smaller ones.
I've done this in the past, it makes a HUGE difference if you use the European E-Code headlamp housings.

any way you slice it it's a lot of work to swap stuff around......but you can get much better lights and output than the stock "newest" quads. i know i had great lights before.

does any company make quality housings for these?

pretty decent read here
Exactly. I don't know about the housings but that really doesn't matter to me. As long as I can stuff the 165mm headlights onto the front of the truck, I can put in the E-code housings like that guy did and then I can fully utilize the 80w/100w bulbs I have right now without blinding folks.

I may have a line on the parts I need so I'll see how that pans out and keep this updated.

Edit:
Here's a thread showing a nice write up on some custom headlamp assemblies. Pay attention to the "cut-off" characteristics of these lenses. This really shows exactly what I am going for, and you can't argue with the increased light output.

Here is an updated link to the modules:
http://www.rallylights.com/Hella_90mm_Halogen_and_Xenon_HID_Headlamp_Modules.aspx
 
... I really don't understand how anyone can drive with some of the OEM headlights in these old vehicles. You can only see 25' in front of you, and at 65mph that simply isn't good enough for me..

Being OCD is ok. :D

But dude, seriously. 25 feet? Adjust the headlights...
 
Being OCD is ok. :D

But dude, seriously. 25 feet? Adjust the headlights...
Been there, done that.

If I put my K5 next to my Mini, you'd swear the K5 headlights were really just the park lights. There is THAT much of a difference.

I know, I know, this is crazy of me, but it's been an obsession of mine for decades.

Back in the day I used to drive a 1978 VW Rabbit with the same E-code headlights. They were awesome. Bright on low beam but not blinding other drivers. I also had some driving lights in the grill with 160w H3 bulbs. Now THOSE were some nasty bulbs. With those lights on, the car would idle for no more than 10 minutes before they completely drained the battery. If you stood in front of the car you could feel the heat from the bulbs about 10' away. And finally, when they were on, they would light up the countryside for a good 3-5 miles.

My favorite thing to do would be to get out on Hwy 280 and drive around in the middle of the night (highschool kid with nothing to do...). If I saw someone on the other side would had their high beams on, I'd flash my headlights to remind them. After 2 times and them ignoring me, I'd turn on the driving lights. The whole area would light up and the other driver would immediately dim their lights. For some sick reason, I thought this was fun.

It probably stems from a story my dad told me. When he was in the service they had trucks with searchlights mounted in the back. They'd drive around the countryside and when they came across someone who wouldn't dim their lights, they would supposedly fire up the searchlight. Somehow I don't think it was legit, because I could swear those things take a few minutes to warm up, but it made me chuckle. :)
 
If you're talking about those composite housings that convert to using the 9000 series type bulbs, i could have swore i saw they are finally making those in the smaller style now for the side by side configuration.

I dunno, i still stand by my statement of using some Xtra-Visions, it was a big improvement over the old halogens, so much so, they were originally in my dually, and before i traded the truck away, i took them out to put them inthe Burb. :D

BUT, it's your hobby :waytogo: :D
 
I far prefer the H4 and H3/H7 bulbs to the 9000 series because I get get some killer wattage in there. I looked for the 9000 series and didn't find anything though. It *appears* the 9000 series housings can have the H7's put in without any mods. However, for the low beam I want to use H4's so I can have low beams by themselves, and then when I turn on the high beams all 4 lamps are lit.

The H7's by themselves in the Eurolamps housing were bright, but again they spread the light all over so I would have to pretty much point them down at the road no more than 50' in front of the truck or I would be blinding people, so that doesn't work and isn't cool.
 
Okay, ScrappyK5 let me know that bldvl had a set of headlight assemblies from an 85' K5 so I picked those up today. Here is what they look like sitting in the bezel:



As you can see they would fit if I trim the plastic a little. That's easy.

However, these headlamp buckets are all identical and that means the adjustment screw fittings are both on the same side, which means I cannot sit them side by side and have them as close as I want. The solution will be to flip one assembly upside down so the adjustment screw notch is facing the left side and top on one assembly, and the right side and bottom on the other, as shown here:



Looking at my 91 the adjustment screws mount at the top center and then on on the left side and the other on the right side. In addition, the openings for the adjustment screws are smaller squares than the 85 which has rectangles about twice the height.



That of course is easy to deal with. I am fine with cutting a few small holes in the core support to handle the new spring mount point and then the two adjustment screw mount points. As you can see the spring holes are simple, I just need to drill two small holes:



The adjustment screw holes will be more challenging. I'll probably drill them out with a drill bit first and then use my Dremel to make the holes square.

Ok, it's going to have to warm up before I do all that, so for now I think this will be on hold. I'll update it once I get going again!
 
cool project
will be watching
not that it can help me, but seems different and interesting
 
Im curious to see if you get it done, how it will turn out. The funny thing to me about this, is i think my 90's headlights put out excellent light! The high beams are as much as i could really ever need.
 
Here are some more pics of the mounting rings. As you can see there really is not that big of a difference. So I should be able to get the larger headlamps in, which means I can buy the E-code headlamps and run my super bright bulbs.

I don't know if I mentioned this, BTW, but the whole reason why I am doing this is because no one sells or makes E-Code headlamps in the 150mm size any more. If they did, I would have just bought a set of those and been done with it.





 
You did but I believe there's been a bit of confusion on this point and also the technicalities of what you are doing.
 
Vaguely. He's going a different route dealing with the reflectors and the bulbs.
The LMC and EuroLamp setups really don't do much other than allow you to run a more modern style bulb and possibly one with more wattage than the factory style sealed beams.
 
Yeah I'm not always real good at explaining what I am doing when I am typing, my bad!

Soooo ... does anyone know an easy way to punch a small square hole through the core support? I know I can Dremel it but I have a feeling the sheetmetal will be tough on the Dremel bits and I'll go through a lot of them. On top of that I am sure the holes will be more round than square knowing my hand ... :D

The mounting points for the adjuster screws are 1/2" on each side:





I found this in 3/4" but it's too big obviously ...

http://www.amazon.com/Sheet-Metal-S...03?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1292803512&sr=1-2

Suggestions? Cheap and easy? :D
 
Vaguely. He's going a different route dealing with the reflectors and the bulbs.
The LMC and EuroLamp setups really don't do much other than allow you to run a more modern style bulb and possibly one with more wattage than the factory style sealed beams.
Exactly. This is what the beam pattern looks like for E-code headlights:

dCJ2Q.jpg


Notice the complete cut-off of the beam? That is what I am looking for. The notches also aim light to the right side of the road to illuminate signs and lane markers without blinding oncoming traffic. It's a brilliant design and I am very used to it. I've been using E-code headlamps since about 1985! So, this allows me to run pretty much whatever watt bulbs I want (I have some 100w/130w H4's) on low beam, see the road as if I were using high beams, but because the light cuts off below the eye level of other drivers I am not blinding anyone. This is exactly why HID headlamps are legal - they cut off the light at that sharp angle and (usually) do not blind other drivers.

The LMC headlights are not E-Code, they are just light normal lights but the housings look pretty. Plus they do not use H4 or H7 bulbs, so I can't put anything wildly powerful in there. I also strongly suspect they are plastic housings, and those melt with high wattage bulbs. I've had that happen before. Hella makes some nice E-Code headlamps and they are all glass which handles high heat with ease.

This is a comparison of E-code lights versus regular lights:

M5loY.jpg


With the regular lights it's just a blob that goes out. At some point you have to aim to HIGHEST point of the regular headlamps down so they don't blind people. Due to the design, that means you get a big blob about 25' to 50' in front of you, and nothing nearer or further.

It's tricky to explain without drawing something, but look at the E-code lights. They are dimmer at the bottom (nearest your car) and brightest right before the cut-off (furthest away). That gives the effect of a consistent beam from near to far, as nearer needs less light and further away needs more light. This is all done without blinding folks. Looking at the regular lights, there is a round blob that is the same intensity. If you aim it down to avoid blinding people, then you get the same intensity in that blob, but covering a near-to-far area of ground. In addition, due to the reflector in your headlight, the bottom half of the reflector is responsible for the light which goes the furthest away, while the top half of the reflector is responsible for the light which stays the nearest to the vehicle. As a result, to avoid blinding people, you have to aim your light down ... which means the low beam ends closer (top of reflector) while the high beam has to come down even further.

Basically, US spec headlamps are a crappy design which are better at allowing other drivers to see YOU than for you to see anything on the road which is not lit up (like holes, people, animals, signs, parked cars, etc.)

The E-Code lamps allow you to have a nice, even beam that is consistently bright from the front of your car all the way out to several hundred feet away.
 

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