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Has anyone converted their 89-91 K5 with 150mm headlights to 165mm headlights?
- Thread starter Jessie James
- Start date
Eh, just try to do a better job than I do.
I am really looking forward to this. Would love to do the same to my 89
That is what I was thinking. I guess I don't expect too much. Of course my '91 is 12 years newer than any other vehicle I own, those older headlights suck compared to the quads on my '91. I suppose I need to get up to date. I would like to see the difference in person, it does look impresive.
88jimmy4x4
1/2 ton status
what about converting to the 1991 style truck headlights?....grille is same basic style but I have never looked into it.
![URL]](/forums/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BURL%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fcarphotos.cardomain.com%2Fride_images%2F4%2F1010%2F4675%2F40024837367_large.jpg%5B%2FURL%5D&hash=0516d20649da5bf7d71645ed0c537d16)
or the base model singles...this size available for what you want?
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ontent=AYY&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base
or the base model singles...this size available for what you want?
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ontent=AYY&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
I have not considering switching to the over/under setup because the radiator support would need a lot of modification. You could swap the entire radiator support out for that over under style, but that's just too much work. Otherwise, you have to cut holes for the lower headlight and remove and swap and move the turn/park light assembly to the middle of the grille. I think a little trimming of plastic and drilling a few holes is a lot less work.
Plus I personally like the side-by-side look better, I think it looks more modern.
Plus I personally like the side-by-side look better, I think it looks more modern.
oldtoyboyd
1/2 ton status
I tried to buy the hella 150mm e code conversions, but nobody has any left. If this goes good, it might me a nice option.
Maybe I missed it but I saw your link in another post:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/m/u/mulgeary/Hella90/index.htm
What's your thoughts on those? I don't care much about stock looks.
http://bellsouthpwp.net/m/u/mulgeary/Hella90/index.htm
What's your thoughts on those? I don't care much about stock looks.
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
I saw those and that is exactly the kind of performance I am looking for. They even have a HID version, although it's out of my price range. The only drawback is that they won't look stock, and in fact will probably look pretty odd. I suppose I could have someone make me a clear headlight lens that is just plain glass (safety glass) then mount the clear lens in the original headlight bucket and mount those headlamp assemblies behind that. But that's a lot more work than what appears to be drilling a few holes, using a file, and trimming the plastic to fit the 165mm headlamp assemblies.
Who knows, maybe next year I'll try the HID version when I'm rich. (Not!
)
Who knows, maybe next year I'll try the HID version when I'm rich. (Not!
)
i took a stock housing and cut the back off and attached a projector to it. Didnt look wierd and the nice cutoff was awesome.
see.
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/6183-projector-headlights-on-a-dime-lotta-pics/
see.
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/6183-projector-headlights-on-a-dime-lotta-pics/
I just want legal performance. Lots of light that is useable and not going to get me pulled over.
I figure for what 2 sets of PIAA or other big name H7 bulbs go for I'd be a good way down the road to a set of projectors like that.
I figure for what 2 sets of PIAA or other big name H7 bulbs go for I'd be a good way down the road to a set of projectors like that.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Again, i just used the Xtra-Visions, aimed them up enough to be able to project the light out, i think these bulbs are fluted differently than the standard halogens as well, they are a big difference in light output. And the way i see it, the oncoming drivers should not be looking directly at my headlights, i could have swore this was an issue that used to be taught in driver training, or whatever on how to drive at night and not be overly blinded by oncoming cars. I dunno, to each his own i guess
I also did the little relay wiring deal where if i needed the high beams, the outter headlight would stay on WITH the high beams, as this setup from the factory shuts off the lows and turns on the inners only for high. THIS helps a TON for high beam useage.
I also did the little relay wiring deal where if i needed the high beams, the outter headlight would stay on WITH the high beams, as this setup from the factory shuts off the lows and turns on the inners only for high. THIS helps a TON for high beam useage.
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
Cool project, but I want to avoid double-lens situations. And that looks like a TON of work! Way more than I want to do ...
I did that with my current setup using the LMC harness. high beams are pretty insane but the low beams still suck. Since I drive around town 99% of the time, high beams are not really an option, hence wanting better low beams.I also did the little relay wiring deal where if i needed the high beams, the outter headlight would stay on WITH the high beams, as this setup from the factory shuts off the lows and turns on the inners only for high. THIS helps a TON for high beam useage.
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
By request, how I made my low beams stay on with my high beams on my 1991 K5.
Background:
> I purchased the LMC "standard" headlight harness.
> I did NOT purchase the LMC "Euro" harness, which fits their Euro headlights which use 9000 series bulbs. I believe the LMC Euro headlamps use a single-filament bulb for each headlight.
> I purchased the EuroLamps.com headlights which use H7 single-filament bulbs for each headlight (and are also exactly the same, which is deceptively listed on their site as TWO parts ... tsk, tsk.)
When my harness arrived, I quickly noticed (a) it did not have fuses, so I added some within 18" of the battery and (b) it uses standard plugs like this:
The 1991 Blazer headlights use tiny pins so this harness is NOT COMPATIBLE with STOCK headlights.
The EuroLamps use H7 bulbs which have a different size so the LMC harness is also NOT COMPATIBLE with the EuroLamp bulbs.
I wanted dual-filament bulbs for my outer headlights, and to achieve that I have some 80w/100w H4 bulbs. After some basic measuring I determined that the H4 bulbs have the proper dimensions to mount into the EuroLamp housings if I put a tiny seal of high-temp silicon gasket sealant to the back edge of the housing and chopped up the edges of the H4 socket a tiny bit to allow the spring clips to hold the bulb closer to the housing.
Ok, now with the dual-filament bulbs, I had to re-pin the LMC harness.
The LMC harness had this setup:
Right was the ground
Left was the Low beam
Top was the High beam
So I used a jewelers screwdriver to hit the release tab of each pin, slid the pin out of the socket, and then moved it to the correct location.
Now my socket has this setup:
Right is High
Left is Ground
Top is Low
The harness also has a wire which goes from the Right pin to the second socket which is identical but only has two wires.
Of course, this will not fit on an H7 bulb, so I removed the pins from the socket (and should have put on shrink wrap, but it was cold!) and plugged them in to the H7 bulb directly. (NOTE: I do have H7 sockets, so I will splice them in later).
I then ran the signal wire from the LMC harness to the existing low and high beam wires using a wire tap (vampire) so I did not cut anything. I also cut the ground wire which was on the LMC harness that went between the two relays ... and to each other ... huh ... and grounded them to the body so each relay has a proper ground.
Now when I put on my low beams, the low filament of the H4 lights up. When I put on my high beams, the high filament of the H4 lights up AND the single filament of the H7 lights up.
Ok, now suppose you want to do this but don't have an H4 bulb setup. All you have to do is get a "diode" which is large enough to handle 12v. Take the diode and wire it between the LMC harness relays.
Each relay has:
12v+ signal from source (headlight circuit)
12v+ power (battery)
12v- (ground)
12v + to headlight
All you have to do to make your LOW beams "stay on" with your high beams is to wire the 12v + from headlight on the HIGH circuit THROUGH the diode (which is a one-way current control, so be sure you put it in the proper "direction" - it's like a turnstile, it only allows power to go one direction) to the "12v+ signal" to the LOW beam relay.
Now when you have your low beams on, the diode will not allow the power to go to the high beam circuit. When you turn on your high beams, they will light up, send a signal to the diode, the diode WILL allow the power to go to the first relay, and your low beams will stay on.
A diode is probably a $1.50 item at radio shack.
I *think* you can also buy a diode-protected relay like this one:
http://www.ozautoelectrics.com/products/12V-40-AMP-5-PIN-DIODE-PROTECTED-NORMALLY-OPEN-RELAY.html
However, I am not sure if that will fit into the LMC harness relay socket, but that does the same thing. You connect one of those to the first relay across the diode protected circuit and it turns on the second relay when it sees power, but won't let the first relay trigger it.
I hope this helps!
Background:
> I purchased the LMC "standard" headlight harness.
> I did NOT purchase the LMC "Euro" harness, which fits their Euro headlights which use 9000 series bulbs. I believe the LMC Euro headlamps use a single-filament bulb for each headlight.
> I purchased the EuroLamps.com headlights which use H7 single-filament bulbs for each headlight (and are also exactly the same, which is deceptively listed on their site as TWO parts ... tsk, tsk.)
When my harness arrived, I quickly noticed (a) it did not have fuses, so I added some within 18" of the battery and (b) it uses standard plugs like this:
The 1991 Blazer headlights use tiny pins so this harness is NOT COMPATIBLE with STOCK headlights.
The EuroLamps use H7 bulbs which have a different size so the LMC harness is also NOT COMPATIBLE with the EuroLamp bulbs.
I wanted dual-filament bulbs for my outer headlights, and to achieve that I have some 80w/100w H4 bulbs. After some basic measuring I determined that the H4 bulbs have the proper dimensions to mount into the EuroLamp housings if I put a tiny seal of high-temp silicon gasket sealant to the back edge of the housing and chopped up the edges of the H4 socket a tiny bit to allow the spring clips to hold the bulb closer to the housing.
Ok, now with the dual-filament bulbs, I had to re-pin the LMC harness.
The LMC harness had this setup:
Right was the ground
Left was the Low beam
Top was the High beam
So I used a jewelers screwdriver to hit the release tab of each pin, slid the pin out of the socket, and then moved it to the correct location.
Now my socket has this setup:
Right is High
Left is Ground
Top is Low
The harness also has a wire which goes from the Right pin to the second socket which is identical but only has two wires.
Of course, this will not fit on an H7 bulb, so I removed the pins from the socket (and should have put on shrink wrap, but it was cold!) and plugged them in to the H7 bulb directly. (NOTE: I do have H7 sockets, so I will splice them in later).
I then ran the signal wire from the LMC harness to the existing low and high beam wires using a wire tap (vampire) so I did not cut anything. I also cut the ground wire which was on the LMC harness that went between the two relays ... and to each other ... huh ... and grounded them to the body so each relay has a proper ground.
Now when I put on my low beams, the low filament of the H4 lights up. When I put on my high beams, the high filament of the H4 lights up AND the single filament of the H7 lights up.
Ok, now suppose you want to do this but don't have an H4 bulb setup. All you have to do is get a "diode" which is large enough to handle 12v. Take the diode and wire it between the LMC harness relays.
Each relay has:
12v+ signal from source (headlight circuit)
12v+ power (battery)
12v- (ground)
12v + to headlight
All you have to do to make your LOW beams "stay on" with your high beams is to wire the 12v + from headlight on the HIGH circuit THROUGH the diode (which is a one-way current control, so be sure you put it in the proper "direction" - it's like a turnstile, it only allows power to go one direction) to the "12v+ signal" to the LOW beam relay.
Now when you have your low beams on, the diode will not allow the power to go to the high beam circuit. When you turn on your high beams, they will light up, send a signal to the diode, the diode WILL allow the power to go to the first relay, and your low beams will stay on.
A diode is probably a $1.50 item at radio shack.
I *think* you can also buy a diode-protected relay like this one:
http://www.ozautoelectrics.com/products/12V-40-AMP-5-PIN-DIODE-PROTECTED-NORMALLY-OPEN-RELAY.html
However, I am not sure if that will fit into the LMC harness relay socket, but that does the same thing. You connect one of those to the first relay across the diode protected circuit and it turns on the second relay when it sees power, but won't let the first relay trigger it.
I hope this helps!
Last edited:
88jimmy4x4
1/2 ton status
updates?....pics?
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
Sorry, no updates due to the holiday and other things going on right now, plus it's freakin' freezin' outside. Once it warms up a little I'll get this going, so stay tuned!
Roadhazardguy
Registered Member
Sorry to go somewhat off topic but you seem to be the person to ask. I have a 85 with single headlights and ive been thinking of getting these: http://www.performance4trucks.com/L...dium=froogle&utm_campaign=product&emlprox=out housings for a while and putting HID bulbs in them. But my real concern is whether the housings not having (reflectors/diverters?) is them is a good thing or not, I only wonder this because lately I have been seeing a lot of headlights this way and I guess its for a reason.
88jimmy4x4
1/2 ton status
I understand about the weather, I have been trying to catch a good day to work on my Jimmy and no luck.
Anyway, once you get all this situated I want to do the exact setup so please do a full write up with part numbers etc, hell I will even pay you to modify the harness etc...seriously
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
If I were you, I would pick up the Hella E-code bulbs. I've been using Hellas for decades and they are awesome. As far as putting HID bulbs in, I'm leery of doing that. First, with only two headlights (not four) you can't have high beams unless you get some exotic HIDs which have a magnetic shield which slides back to expose the light when you go on high beam. Second, if they are not built right, you blind people and get less light on the road. Finally, unless you put in light levelers then it's illegal (as far as I know). So I would search for something that used the E-Code headlamp assembly but also came with HID bulbs - something designed to do it from the start - and then figure out how to handle high beams.
I sure will. Modifying the harness is trivial, you don't need anyone to do it. All I did was got my smallest flat blade screwdriver and you stick it in the socket between the top of the female plug and the plastic housing. Then you bend the tang down that holds the female plug into the socket. At that point the plug slides out. Repeat on the other plugs. Then bend the tang back up and slide the plugs into the correct spot on the socket. It takes maybe 5-10 seconds per plug.
Look carefully at this pic:
See in the middle there is a little piece of metal that sticks up? It just fits into a ledge inside the socket to keep it from sliding out when you plug the socket into the headlight bulb. Bend it down and it slides right out.
DK5
1/2 ton status
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
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'scribed. I'll have to read this whole thread later. Looks interesting. I hate my stock headlights on the highway at night
