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Has anyone here tried Revolver shackles on their Blazer?

DIY4x Shackle Flip

Been seein alot about this shackle flipin thing and I am seriously thinking of doin it. Currently truck has 6" Super lift installed. That kit came with new front springs and the 4" rear blocks. If I was to do the Shackle flip in the rear with the 4.5" shackles that would replace the Blocks Correct? Also I noticed you guys mentioning to get rid of the sway bar up front. Do they make a plate to replace the sway bar plate to Ubolt through? Sorry so many questions, one more thing with the shackle flip I also noticed the exhaust had to be cut, so how are guys refabbing there exhuasts? Thanks Guys for any help..
 
Izzy said:
Been seein alot about this shackle flipin thing and I am seriously thinking of doin it. Currently truck has 6" Super lift installed. That kit came with new front springs and the 4" rear blocks. If I was to do the Shackle flip in the rear with the 4.5" shackles that would replace the Blocks Correct? Also I noticed you guys mentioning to get rid of the sway bar up front. Do they make a plate to replace the sway bar plate to Ubolt through? Sorry so many questions, one more thing with the shackle flip I also noticed the exhaust had to be cut, so how are guys refabbing there exhuasts? Thanks Guys for any help..
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When I pulled my sway bar, I just left the bolts out of the holes in those plates. It'll never be going back on. I'd imagine you could put the bolts back in if you were worried about water or salt getting in there and rusting the threads up.
 
Izzy said:
Sorry so many questions, one more thing with the shackle flip I also noticed the exhaust had to be cut, so how are guys refabbing there exhuasts? Thanks Guys for any help..
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Mine wa sunder my spring when stock , under my spring when it was replaced , and OVER the spring now that its flipped . Spring kinda sheilds my pipe from too much damage now :D
 
I Just saw your video on Golden Spike, thats some crazy flexin.:cool:I hope its cool with ya that I up loaded this video here since everyone wanted to see the flex.:D


 
jonathanjay743 said:
At least you've got a good attitude:D. Just Kidding. It sounds like you guys have hashed this one out before. I did a search & found your not supposed to tow with them which would put them out for me. Gotta be able tow a fairly light weight trailer and wouldn't want to swap them out just for wheeling.:DAny suggestions for better articulation?
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Don't get too obsessed with the crazy shackles and uber-long spring swaps....yeah, those will flex but you'd be amazed how far you can go with some conventional thinking.

Here's a simple ORD shackle flip, stock rear springs and a quality set of 4" front lift springs (also ORD). RTI score is over 1000 in this pic.

DSC00061.jpg


Lots of flex means you need LONG travel shocks with new mounts....almost invariably that is what keeps most recently-modified trucks from flexing to their full potential.

Super-soft suspensions won't tow well, so a more moderate approach is probably what you should be considering.


:usaflag:
 
Listen to what Greg has to say.

You can get where you want with normal off the shelf parts and applications.
If I was doing something with a blazer that needed to tow some.
I would use a 4" front lift spring in the stock length, Cross over steering, rear shackle flip with a stock spring. Then I would buy GOOD shocks look up MRK5 on here for a great shock success story.

If you find that you want a bit stiffer rear suspension for towing your trailer you can put airbags in to help out the springs.


I have an 05' Duramax 2500hd and am thinking about switching the rear springs out for a pair of 1500 springs and then use air bags to get the load carrying capacity back. I drive over a few bumpy roads that make me wish for a softer suspension in the rear.
 
I did the 52/56 thing and I think the best money I spent was on the shocks, especially considering I have a road warrior. After driving 400+ miles through the Rockies each way to Moab, I'm glad I used the shocks I did in the manner that I mounted them. I have an article in the Product Review section here: http://coloradok5.com/custom-doetsch-tech-shock-install.shtml. I think the truck handles better now than it did completely stock.

Here are my poser pics:
DSC00318.jpg


DSCF2687.jpg


DSCF2688.jpg


DSCF2689.jpg


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:flipoff smilie we don't have: :p:

That's not me driving...
 
That baby is limber!!:grin: It sounds like shocks & where their mounted make a big difference in your flex. Im on a budget so I'll start with the free & cheap stuff. Anyone else have pictures or video of their rig flexin? Shair them all!!:D
 
Actually the shocks don't make a difference in the flex or articulation, they make a difference in the driveability with that much flex or articulation.
 
jonathanjay743 said:
I meant the longer travel & better shock position defenitely helps. Yes or Yes.:laugh:
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There again both are just requirements for dealing with more suspension travel. You need longer travel shocks to match the suspension travel. The positioning just allows the shock to function more effectively. But neither effectively ADDS suspension travel.
 
jonathanjay743 said:
Anyone else have pictures or video of their rig flexin? Shair them all!!:D
Click to expand...
Ask and you shall receive

2186902_32_full.jpg

This was when I had 4" Tuff Country EZ ride springs in the front and an ORD 4" shackle flip in the rear. In this pic, the swaybar was still connected
 
I may have not clearly stated what I have now & am trying to achieve. I am not new to wheeling, just new to Blazers. I have a 4" lift. Block in the rear, springs up front. I really like the way it flex's in the rear. After looking at my pictures in the front again, its really not so bad. However I would like to improve my flexing abilities........cheaply. So the sway bar is coming off ASAP. Down the road Im going to probably do a shackle flip. I need something to practice my flex on, Muddermilitia can i borrow your Bobcat?:D Just kidding. Thats killer flex!!!
 
Shackle flips definitely help. You can also play around with shackle angles, front and rear, by moving the frame brackets. That's a cheap thing to do.
 
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