CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Has anyone tried the reusable gasket?

For past 10 years used only right stuff on covers, 3rd members, t case, and everything in between. I love that stuff.......til I have to take it back off. Or ultra black is great also

I think the cheese whiz isn't as good, but some like it
I bought a victor gasket for a 9" man moons ago....in fact I'm looking at it right now, either way never needed it, so it sits

Part number 2015N or P27994

But never used a reusable gasket there.
 
So when I se it agaIn, and it leaks I can shoot by your place at the beginning of July, (when I am up there) to fix it again?:D
You are more than welcome to stop in for roadside repairs or for a place to explore central Wisconsin. I can supply you with electricity and water for your camper. What is the turning radius for your setup. The guy backs a semi up our driveway to pump our holding tanks. If you can back 600 feet, the turning radius is not an issue.

26089750047_large.jpg


The big deal is, I don't want it to leak on moms new driveway in 3 weeks. Plus it is the last leak I have.
I hate leaks. One of the first thing I do is fix the leaks on my vehicles. I use Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 sealant or Right Stuff for leak repair.
 
It might not be awful to split the axle apart if there is a good spot to pry on.
Just to give you an idea of how it sticks,I once bent a snap-on pry bar trying to pop a well stuck on duramax valve cover off:haha:I found a better way to get them off after that
 
You are more than welcome to stop in for roadside repairs or for a place to explore central Wisconsin. I can supply you with electricity and water for your camper. What is the turning radius for your setup. The guy backs a semi up our driveway to pump our holding tanks. If you can back 600 feet, the turning radius is not an issue.




I hate leaks. One of the first thing I do is fix the leaks on my vehicles. I use Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 sealant or Right Stuff for leak repair.

Backing is no big deal. Used to drive heavy recovery. I am going to be looking people up as I cruise through the country.
 
Backing is no big deal. Used to drive heavy recovery. I am going to be looking people up as I cruise through the country.
Put me on the list. You are more than welcome. I have an RV so I am into that as well. I have 40 acres in the middle of nowhere just south of Highway 64 between Merrill and Medford. We are 15 miles north of I29.
 
That would be nice, except I change the fluid yearly. I drive the truck a little hard.

I was staying out of this, because in over 200K on my old 9 inch, I don't ever remember having a leak from the third member gasket. No idea what was used.

But then I read where you change fluids yearly, and a thought occurred. As I have mentioned here before, I usually have to change all the fluids in my truck after every hunting season to get the water out.

My old 9 inch was a pain, but I built a suction device with a semi-rigid tube that would slip in the fill hole and suck all the water and old fluid out.

Then one day, I discovered why I had had a leak where the axle tube entered the third member housing ever since it was new.

Ford had issued a recall or warning for bad welds at that point. The weld was fine, but the welder missed and put all but just a small piece on the tube and almost none on the housing.

The dealer was supposed to inspect the weld and either replace the rear end or have it re-welded.
Mine did neither. They just smeared some black RTV sealer on the seam. I slid under to check my U-Joints after the warranty ran out, and the tube had slid about 1/4 inch out of the housing!!

I drove it back in, and carefully drove it to a machine shop I knew.

Don't worry, I am going somewhere with this.............

We pulled the axle shafts, and the third member. Then we carefully aligned the original weld points, and re-welded the tube correctly.

Then we turned it over, and ground the flat place on the bottom of the housing off smooth.
Took a piece of 1/2 inch plate, the size of that place and beveled one side of it all the way around.

Placed it on the flat part of the housing with the beveled side toward the housing so it created a tapered gap.

Clamped it down, and welded up the gap all the way around. Then ground an outside bevel through the outside of the weld, so that the plate would slide over any stumps or logs.

Also inspected the weld to make sure there were no gaps or pores. Then we drilled the center of the plate, all the way through the housing, and tapped it for a 1/2 NPT fitting. Found an Allen head flush plug that fit and screwed it in with some Teflon tape.

After that, year end lube changes became a lot easier. Just use a big Allen head wrench to remove the plug and let the lube and water drain out.
With all the work you seem to have done already to the rear end, its a crime not to add a drain plug............

I do recommend the reinforcement plate. I was just too nervous about drilling and threading the housing by its self.
 
fordums version
I was staying out of this, because in over 200K on my old 9 inch, I don't ever remember having a leak from the third member gasket. No idea what was used.

But then I read where you change fluids yearly, and a thought occurred. As I have mentioned here before, I usually have to change all the fluids in my truck after every hunting season to get the water out.

My old 9 inch was a pain, but I built a suction device with a semi-rigid tube that would slip in the fill hole and suck all the water and old fluid out.

Then one day, I discovered why I had had a leak where the axle tube entered the third member housing ever since it was new.

Ford had issued a recall or warning for bad welds at that point. The weld was fine, but the welder missed and put all but just a small piece on the tube and almost none on the housing.

The dealer was supposed to inspect the weld and either replace the rear end or have it re-welded.
Mine did neither. They just smeared some black RTV sealer on the seam. I slid under to check my U-Joints after the warranty ran out, and the tube had slid about 1/4 inch out of the housing!!

I drove it back in, and carefully drove it to a machine shop I knew.

Don't worry, I am going somewhere with this.............

We pulled the axle shafts, and the third member. Then we carefully aligned the original weld points, and re-welded the tube correctly.

Then we turned it over, and ground the flat place on the bottom of the housing off smooth.
Took a piece of 1/2 inch plate, the size of that place and beveled one side of it all the way around.

Placed it on the flat part of the housing with the beveled side toward the housing so it created a tapered gap.

Clamped it down, and welded up the gap all the way around. Then ground an outside bevel through the outside of the weld, so that the plate would slide over any stumps or logs.

Also inspected the weld to make sure there were no gaps or pores. Then we drilled the center of the plate, all the way through the housing, and tapped it for a 1/2 NPT fitting. Found an Allen head flush plug that fit and screwed it in with some Teflon tape.

After that, year end lube changes became a lot easier. Just use a big Allen head wrench to remove the plug and let the lube and water drain out.
With all the work you seem to have done already to the rear end, its a crime not to add a drain plug............

I do recommend the reinforcement plate. I was just too nervous about drilling and threading the housing by its self.



normal version
you should just add a drain plug
 
ive never messed with a 9" carrier gasket but the only time i've ever let my rtv set up before clamping it down, was on the sbc old perimeter bolt valve covers

back in the day, before they came out with the re-usable rubber gaskets, you could only find cork gaskets and they never lasted right there by the hot exhaust manifolds & bc i wanted to still remove it easily, i didn't want the rtv to "glue" cover to the head ...so i would put a uniform thick bead of black rtv around the cover where gasket should sit, then let it set up over night before mounting.

it worked great until you over tightened the covers and caused the gasket to squish out, which i think would be the situation with the 9" axle. i would torque my covers down just enuff to barely squish my bead of setup rtv, but with the 9" carrier it gets torked pretty tight..
 
I have considered it. With as beat up as the bottom is, I am not sure I could ever get the plug out. I also like to look at the gears and feel the bearings spin. So I go through the hassle of pulling it. If it had a plug, I would get lazy.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom