Ok so finally got my head gaskets done and the k5 up and running, good compression, no leaks or smoke nice idle only one problem.. Doesn't seem to have any power when going down the road, even at wot acts like it's dragging, checked out timing and seems to be right, no back fires or any thing like that just the lack of power. Only thing I'm not too sure about are the lifters being adjusted right. But they don't chatter and all seem to be operating right. So any help on the situation would be greatly appreciated! Vehicle is a 88 k5, tbi 350 and the 700r4
CK5
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Head gaskets. No power?.
- Thread starter Ic88k5
- Start date
After replacing head gaskets, there is so many things that could be the problem, it is just a shot in the dark at this point for anyone to guess right. I will start with a guess of checking your timing to see if it is advancing as the RPM increases. The average would be "all in" at roughly 32 degrees advance @ about 2000 RPM or so.
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Let me give a rundown on how I did my timing to see if there could be any error on how I did it... Ok what I did was pull the dist didn't mark it or anything and when I went to install it I had a helper jump in the cab and bump the starter with my finger over the number hole too feel for TDC, then when I found and checked the harmonic balancer too make sure it was on the timing tab then manually rotated the crank so that it's lined up on the zero, then used a screw driver to rotate the oil pump so that when I drop the dist in it will be pointing too or really close to number 1 then just hooked up all my plug wires and also had the wire unhooked while messing with the timing will get a actual answer on where it's sitting at tomorrow, did that on a carb'd engine and it worked fine. not sure on this computer controlled engine, and as for the lifters I uses a ruler and measured the how for down the nut is and when I went too tighten them down I used the ruler with the measurements and went off that, probably not the best way to do it..
Did you use a timing light when setting the timing? Was the computer control wire disconnected while setting it?
Setting valve lash.............wow..........with a tape measure? I hate to be rude here, but get a friend who knows how and have him show you.
Now, you can pull one valve cover at a time. Then back off one rocker arm nut at a time, with the engine running, until it starts to tap. Tighten until it stops tapping and then an additional 1/4 turn. That will get you in the ballpark. Now this will be messy, oil everywhere. Keep it at a low idle.
Setting valve lash.............wow..........with a tape measure? I hate to be rude here, but get a friend who knows how and have him show you.
Now, you can pull one valve cover at a time. Then back off one rocker arm nut at a time, with the engine running, until it starts to tap. Tighten until it stops tapping and then an additional 1/4 turn. That will get you in the ballpark. Now this will be messy, oil everywhere. Keep it at a low idle.
Used a light too see where it was sitting and yes disconnected the wire it was idling fine so thought that the timing was good enough, will check tomorrow and give an update on where it's at , and should have stated, it was a metal rule not a tape measure and sadly I know no one who knows the first thing about engines, hell people I know started panicking when I pulled the dist. 
Even a metal ruler is not an accurate way of measuring it. Try doing it while running and listening for the clatter/tapping. You can take a long piece of cardboard and place it under the edge of the head while doing it. It won't be perfectly clean but it'll help.
Where are you located? Maybe we have a member who is close to you that can help out.
Yeah, never seen anyone set rockers with a ruler. They should be set by feel. But just assuming that you got the timing right and the rockers.. Was the head gasket you used the same thickness as the old one. If it was thicker you'd have lost a little due to lower compression ratio.
Ok got around to messing with you the lifters and started on one side while it's running and loosened them one at a time til it started tapping then tightened it til it stopped while in the process of tightening them the engine kinda bogged down for a split second then idled fine again, it did that with all of them not sure that's normal? But still lacks the power it had before the new head gaskets and they are the same ones that was on it, felpros
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If lifters are set properly, timing is normally 0* with the EST bypass disconnected. The ECM controls it once connected, so as long as you are at 0* (or whatever the core support sticker states) before you plug the wire in, you are good to go.
People sometimes go a couple degrees more (2-4*), but it doesn't take much before you get into detonation.
People sometimes go a couple degrees more (2-4*), but it doesn't take much before you get into detonation.
Ok checked timing with wire hooked up.. Was way off! Way past the zero so I set it to zero, definitely noticed a change in the idle, alot smoother well unhooked the battery and let it set for a bout 5 minutes, then hooked it all up and went for a test run, alot more power I definite big difference, so I checked the timing again with the wire hooked up and it's way past the 12 but idle is nice and has power.. Is it ok to run like that? Or will it need more tinkering?
Well fellas.. If it's not one thing it's another.. So after getting her all cleaned up and went around the block for a test drive I get her home Park her, still running to check and make sure nothing is leaking anywhere and of course oil leaking at a steady pace 
. Leaking from somewhere down the back of the engine, so knowing my luck I can probably say the intake manifold gasket didn't seal right on the rear Or.. Not sure if possible but maybe the head is leaking oil? All I know is that this thing has been nothing but problems, one after another and I'm almost too the point of throwing in the Towle 
. Leaking from somewhere down the back of the engine, so knowing my luck I can probably say the intake manifold gasket didn't seal right on the rear Or.. Not sure if possible but maybe the head is leaking oil? All I know is that this thing has been nothing but problems, one after another and I'm almost too the point of throwing in the Towle
Check your oil pressure sending unit, assuming you have one back there. Drivers side of the distributor. May have messed it up.
Factory timing is something around 20* at idle, which is why EFI idles so much nicer than carbs.
Factory timing is something around 20* at idle, which is why EFI idles so much nicer than carbs.
First thing I checked was the sending unit and the pressure sensor, thinking maybe it wasn't sealing and squirting upward, but I'm pretty sure it's the gasket going to take it off tomorrow evening and reseal it, hopefully I can salvage the gaskets seeing how they are new, also only does it when driving or holding engine Rev, doesn't do it at idleCheck your oil pressure sending unit, assuming you have one back there. Drivers side of the distributor. May have messed it up.
Factory timing is something around 20* at idle, which is why EFI idles so much nicer than carbs.
I throw away those rubber end seals and use RTV instead--even GM suggested that when too many of those rubber end seals blew out or moved during the intake install...
I think there is no pressurized oil passage between the head and block for oil,just oil drain back returns--if there was a pressure passage ,in order for it to leak you'd have to have something pinched between the head and head gasket like a wire or nylon vacuum tube,but that would also let compression escape,you'd hear that and be able to "feel" it with it idling,it would idle unevenly ..
I think there is no pressurized oil passage between the head and block for oil,just oil drain back returns--if there was a pressure passage ,in order for it to leak you'd have to have something pinched between the head and head gasket like a wire or nylon vacuum tube,but that would also let compression escape,you'd hear that and be able to "feel" it with it idling,it would idle unevenly ..
I threw rubber gaskets away at the auto part store
but come to think of it, I probably didn't let the rtv sit a little bit before I threw the intake on and torqued it down, which I heard that could cause the rtv to spread out and not make a good seal? and the idle Is really smooth and acceleration is pretty good too for a max speed of 85..
also if it happened to be something with the head, it would probably smoke like crazy?
but come to think of it, I probably didn't let the rtv sit a little bit before I threw the intake on and torqued it down, which I heard that could cause the rtv to spread out and not make a good seal? and the idle Is really smooth and acceleration is pretty good too for a max speed of 85..also if it happened to be something with the head, it would probably smoke like crazy?
I used to plop the intake right on as soon as possible--if the RTV starts setting up before making contact with the metal it is more prone to leaking..I used "Ultra-Blue" but that was the "best" back then,now the Ultra Black or "Right Stuff" is much better..
I always had a hard time dropping a cast iron intake on first shot, and getting it lined up without having to move it back or forth,which can smear the RTV and cause a gap & leaks..I put a healthy bead of RTV about 3/8" thick on the block,its one of few places "sparingly" isn't better than "generous"...
If your lucky maybe the distributor isn't seated all the way down or the gasket is letting oil pass by it--there is an oil pressure passage in the distributor "hole" where the groove is in the distributor base to lube the bushing in it,and it also lubes the lifter gallery on the other side...
I always had a hard time dropping a cast iron intake on first shot, and getting it lined up without having to move it back or forth,which can smear the RTV and cause a gap & leaks..I put a healthy bead of RTV about 3/8" thick on the block,its one of few places "sparingly" isn't better than "generous"...
If your lucky maybe the distributor isn't seated all the way down or the gasket is letting oil pass by it--there is an oil pressure passage in the distributor "hole" where the groove is in the distributor base to lube the bushing in it,and it also lubes the lifter gallery on the other side...
Never that lucky! but looked at it and all seems dry in that area, it's pooled up on the drivers side of the block towards the middle and right where the casting numbers are, also since the intake bolts are new would it be possible to reuse them? Or should I just buy more, not sure if they stretch like the heads bolts do when torqued down.
but looked at it and all seems dry in that area, it's pooled up on the drivers side of the block towards the middle and right where the casting numbers are, also since the intake bolts are new would it be possible to reuse them? Or should I just buy more, not sure if they stretch like the heads bolts do when torqued down.
Intake bolts would be wet from water - not oil. But you should be able to reuse those, the intake manifold doesn't use high torque.
I've had oil puddle up on the center bolts on the intake before on small blocks--I think the threaded holes might pass through into the lifter galley..
I put gasket shellac or permatex non hardening goop on the bolt threads to stop the oil from building up on the intake..
I've always re-used original intake bolts when possible,only replaced them if the heads were rusted and a wrench wouldn't grab them good..
Head bolts also need some sealer on the threads ,they pass into the coolant passages..
I put gasket shellac or permatex non hardening goop on the bolt threads to stop the oil from building up on the intake..
I've always re-used original intake bolts when possible,only replaced them if the heads were rusted and a wrench wouldn't grab them good..
Head bolts also need some sealer on the threads ,they pass into the coolant passages..
