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Header Fit w/ORD Shackles!!!

cheyennek20

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Ok, before anyone berates me for this being a repost, I tried to post in the appropriate thread and got no responses except for "...bend the pipes with them hot!"

Here's my dillema:
I've seen the posts before with the passenger side header that hits the lower shackle bolt and hear that you can heat them up (via engine running) and bend them to your will. I understand, IAW Hedman, that this will void the warranty. I'm ok with that. I'll probably end up doing this anyway.

What I do want to know from those of you running a BBC/SM465/NP205 combo:
1. Are you using ORD's Shackle kit?
2. Are you using headers?
3. Did you have this contact problem?
4. Is this how you corrected it?
5. Are you using their competition style motor mounts?

Any Part #'s for different brand headers other than Hedman's 69820 would be appreciated. Hedman was at least good enough to say they'd warranty these and work w/ me and Summit to get my cash back.

If you have done the "heat up and bend" trick with 14 gauge tubes and ceramic coating, I'd love to hear about your results.

I'd rather do the right thing and replace these with a set that fits (with people who have installed them) instead of buying a set only from looking at pictures. I'd like to have my truck running by this weekend so any info I kinda need quick.

I appeal to you Brotherhood, Help me with my dilema!

:bow::(:bow::(
 
mine are doug thorley headers. they are a nice fit. doesnt look like it in the picture but there is a fair amount of room (clearance not an issue). even if your shackle is in the stock location. but they hang a little low on the drivers side. passenger side is perfect for dual exhaust. problem is i realy didn't want to run dual. if i could do it all over i would have bought some good shorties. that way you can route them just the way you want. there new by the way...hint hint...

P3080073.jpg
 
I have flowtech headers on mine, the header used to hit the shackle bolt. I cut the shackle bolt and it doesn't hit any more.

How bad does it hit and what is the header contacting? If its the bolt you can reverse the direction that you put the bolt through the shackle.
 
mine rub on both sides and i've been wanting to get a new set, but i'm a procrastinator...

i tried to bend the headers in with a ratchet strap, but after i started, i started to think about "what if i pull the bolts out of the head" then i stopped and the headers went back into there original location
 
with the doug thorley, would i have to redo my exhaust from the reducer back? right now i have some headman headers...

sorry for the hijack
 
How bad does it hit and what is the header contacting? If its the bolt you can reverse the direction that you put the bolt through the shackle.

It hits the middle of the collector like this:

IMG_2232.jpg

I'd think of just turning the bolt around but I've got ORD's shackle kit on it and the greasable bolts(Zerk fitting in the head). The springs are stock length with a 6" lift.

I'm looking for brands and part #'s of headers that were installed with a BBC, ORD's engine mounts and shackle kits that don't hit.

I'm also trying to figure out if anyone here has heated their headers, either by torch or by running their engine, and bent them to not come into contact with the lower bolt.

I tried to get this info from the original header post but got few replies. I'd have to look it up, but someone suggested running the engine and bending it with a 2 x 4 but offhand I can't remember who. I guess I'll have to see who that was and what post it was under and PM them.

IMG_2232.jpg
 
Just bend em dude... or chop off the extra threads.. I'm doubting you even need to heat the headers, just bend it twice as far as you want it to end up.. ratchet strap, 2 x 4, prybar etc...

modded trucks aren't generally bolt up, some fabbing/tweaking is usually involved..

And for whoever said, if they did it again, they'd run shorties. Why bother? might as well run manifolds.. shorties are useless performance-wise..
 
And for whoever said, if they did it again, they'd run shorties. Why bother? might as well run manifolds.. shorties are useless performance-wise..

Thats not true. They are useless in a truck for the most part. Longtubes free up more torque vs shorties.
 
I've moved headers a good bit in the past. Never tried it with just exhaust heat. I like to bolt/clamp them to a bench and put the rosebud on them. Measure before and after and hit the mark.
 
I've moved headers a good bit in the past. Never tried it with just exhaust heat. I like to bolt/clamp them to a bench and put the rosebud on them. Measure before and after and hit the mark.

[mild hijack]

Would you have any reservations about doing it to a set of brand new shorties? It doesn't really look like the ones I ordered are going to work out like I'd hoped and the only alternative is building a set.

[/mild hijack]
 
Thats not true. They are useless in a truck for the most part. Longtubes free up more torque vs shorties.

heh?

Do you really want to argue this with me? What exactly are you arguing with me on? I don't get it... Your statement had nothing to do with what I said... or showed me wrong..

I'll just start with long tubes are an "across the board" power gain. but generally long tubes prime performance zone is top end, not bottom end.. primary tube depending...


Don't believe any hype you may have heard, or read, shorties are basically manifold performance compared to a Tri-Y or long tube...
 
[mild hijack]

Would you have any reservations about doing it to a set of brand new shorties? It doesn't really look like the ones I ordered are going to work out like I'd hoped and the only alternative is building a set.

[/mild hijack]

Pm'd.
 
I've moved headers a good bit in the past. Never tried it with just exhaust heat. I like to bolt/clamp them to a bench and put the rosebud on them. Measure before and after and hit the mark.

Ever done this with ceramic coated headers?

The set I have is ceramic coated. I would be willing to try the torch, but not until I have no other options....including returning these and buying a totally different set. Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate the info, but all I've gotten thus far is hijacks about other peoples headers.:rolleyes:
 
heh?

Do you really want to argue this with me? What exactly are you arguing with me on? I don't get it... Your statement had nothing to do with what I said... or showed me wrong..

I'll just start with long tubes are an "across the board" power gain. but generally long tubes prime performance zone is top end, not bottom end.. primary tube depending...


Don't believe any hype you may have heard, or read, shorties are basically manifold performance compared to a Tri-Y or long tube...

I'm arguing your statement that shorty headers are useless and practically the same thing as manifolds. Shorties vs longtubes, yes longtubes are better but shorties are still a huge improvement vs rough ass stock manifolds.
 
Take both bolts out of the shackle and drop the front end down. Install the lower bolt (the one that goes through the spring) opposite of the way you have it now and then reinstall the upper bolt and you're done.

Don't worry about the grease zerk (you may even have to grind/break it off or use a regular bolt). The greasable bolts never made much sense to me anyway :dunno:
 
Ever done this with ceramic coated headers?

The set I have is ceramic coated. I would be willing to try the torch, but not until I have no other options....including returning these and buying a totally different set. Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate the info, but all I've gotten thus far is hijacks about other peoples headers.:rolleyes:


Nope, not with ceramic. My brothers were jet hot coated or some such. We had to get his pretty friggin hot to make them move enough.

I have altered some ceramic coated headers. Some welding. Kinda sucks to weld on. I imagine if much heat is required to move them, the finish may be damaged.

Last set I did, clamped (alot!!!)to heavy welding bench. Weld a screw type c-clamp to the table in the collector area, Pulled the header collector, 5/8" toward table. Then heated a large portion of the tubes. When you've finished the job, the screw clamp won't be really tight anymore. Allow to cool and the tubes will take a set to their new home.
 
Ya know I need to move mine but exhaust heat being enough to bend them doesnt sound right to me.

Yeah, in my experience, I don't think it'd get it done. I've never tried it though either. I guess with the ignition timing wrong you can get your pipes red hot too.:eek1: In which case, that'd probably work.
 
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