Heading out today to get driveshaft lengthened - is this OK?

[Austin4130]

What all do you need for a double cardan driveshaft? SYE?

 

[frankin5]

The right measurements and a Banker!!!

 

[JoshHefnerX]

When the working angles become too high you'll start to get vibrations. When I swapped out my rear axle last year to a 14b the center was larger thus effectively shortening the distance between the tcase and the dif yoke. The double cardan basically allows you run the rear pinion almost straight to the tcase basically within a couple of deg for axle rotation and the tcase end is then split between 2 ujoints.

 

[Carcinogen]

I know I'm a little late to the party but a K10 SWB rig is slightly longer than a k5 and might work without needing shortened. But... I believe(and am often wrong...) that it depends on the trans and tailshaft it uses too.

 

[CrpMag122]

@Austin4130, weren't you considering making some suspension changes?

 

[Austin4130]

@Austin4130, weren't you considering making some suspension changes?

@CrpMag122
Same ride height, but changing out the blocks in the rear for that other preferred shackle end setup that was recommended. Right now I'm working through swapping the rear axle, and re spraying the door panels , console and kickers in a better black. After that it's heading off for a couple of weeks to get rear cage installed.

 

[CrpMag122]

@CrpMag122
Same ride height, but changing out the blocks in the rear for that other preferred shackle end setup that was recommended. Right now I'm working through swapping the rear axle, and re spraying the door panels , console and kickers in a better black. After that it's heading off for a couple of weeks to get rear cage installed.

So, if I were you I would wait to do the suspension and get that fixed the right way. Put the axle you decide on in the rear then order a double cardan shaft in. You will want to wait to order the shaft so you know the measurements for everything. Then weld on the new perches so you get the angle correct for the double cardan shaft.

That's what I did and it worked out well for me. If there is a better way, some of the guys with more experience and knowledge then me will chime in.

 

[Justin V]

That shaft has more issues than Time Magazine.

It's been bound up really bad earlier in it's life, and the tacked in cap is a sign that the ears are egged out and no longer good. You need new parts, sorry

Spoken like a guy who knows how to push parts to the limit, and has likely used this as a quick fix once or twice...

 

[CrpMag122]

I just read my own post. I meant wait to do the drive shaft until the suspension is done.

 

[Blue85]

Nice part about shackle flip with a Blazer is the rear pinion angle ends up close to what you need for a C/V. If you stick with standard shaft, you'll need to shim it down.

There are 2 ways to go C/V:

1. Get a shaft built with the slip yoke and C/V. Works fine with small lift.
2. Do the SYE. This improves angle because the shaft gets longer and has less tendency to bind the slip yoke.

There are 4 options for SYE:

1. Send parts of your 208 to Tom Woods for the conversion
2. Do a Chevy/Dodge hybrid T-case (there are 2 ways documented on CK5)
3. Buy the "drill and tap" yoke from drivetrainsuperstore which keeps full length 208, but no slip
4. Use a 241 and buy SYE kit

All of this is well-discussed, so you can search here and find all the info. If you end up going SYE, Tatton will build a custom length 1-ton C/V shaft for $350 (http://stores.ebay.com/TATTONS-DRIVESHAFTS?_trksid=p2047675.l2563)