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Heading out today to get driveshaft lengthened - is this OK?

Austin4130

Austin4130

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Headed to take my rear driveshaft in for lengthening today - noticed that it has had some previous work done, namely tacking the u-joint in, and a weld repair on one of the ears.

Does this look kosher?

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looks like you have some serious binding issues. Your pinion angle needs to be corrected or your lift is just too tall for a stock style shaft.
 
I'd bet the shop isn't going to want to mess with it since the joints are tacked in place, it's probably a sign of previous problem.
 
There may be,(none I know of off the top of my head)--but around here a drive shaft is probably the hardest part to buy "used" from a salvage yard--they use forks on loaders to pick vehicles up off ramp trucks or move them around the yard,and very few places bother to remove the drive shafts first--and they get dented,bent,and rendered un-useable..

If you poke around online you may find a listing for drive shafts by length and yoke size...and be able to determine if any other vehicle has one suitable for your purpose...most just have a new one made though,it pans out better in most cases..
 
Ok, checked a local drivetrain shop and it's definitely toast.

Order online?

He was wanting to use some of my old parts to build a new one, for around $350-$400.
 
You should be able to get a shaft out of anything that's not a SWB or Blazer and it be longer than you need.
 
Austin4130 said:
Ok, checked a local drivetrain shop and it's definitely toast.

Order online?

He was wanting to use some of my old parts to build a new one, for around $350-$400.
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is that place smoking crack ? reuse the slip yoke unless its damaged . then new tube and 2 weld in yokes and good joints.

or a short bed or long bed shaft will be longer and its cheeper to shorten a shaft than make longer.

but DO NOT get a factory flared tube shaft . the middle section is bigger than were the yokes are welded on . these are not to be modifyed.
 
On my 75 I blasted the rear shaft on a rock. Twisted it in two. It was going to cost more to retube my shaft than getting a longer one shortened.

So I ended up using a k20 rear shaft that the driveline shop cut down to my length. Just had to run a conversion u joint at the rear since the k20 shaft had 1350 joints and the 12 bolt had 1310.

Nice thing about going up to the k20 shaft was the larger joints, larger diameter and thicker wall tube. Cost me $150 to cut down vs $400 to retube.
 
WOW 150 to chop down and balance ? ? or joint also ?

if no joint then dam . . . my shop in town is 70-90 bucks to shorten and balance .

and 400 for a new tube dammmmmm .
 
here for $70-$90 you might be able to get them to agree to use lube.

Re-using my yokes, full re-tube on my 90 K5 shaft, cheap u-joints...$500. Welcome to "oil country".
 
bought my front shaft outright here locally from a company, that had a bunch of used onhand.. Was like 120ish. Tom woods built the rear - double cardan for 600ish all new.
 
if you go to home depot or lowers and get the cardboard roll that carpet comes on you can ship drive shaft cheap. ask me how i know
 
sweetk30 said:
WOW 150 to chop down and balance ? ? or joint also ?

if no joint then dam . . . my shop in town is 70-90 bucks to shorten and balance .

and 400 for a new tube dammmmmm .
Click to expand...

It's been a few years, but I think that was with new joints, cut down and balance. Yep, $400 to retube. Hence the reason I had them cut down a longer shaft. That being said it cost me more to have an all new rear cv shaft made for the 91.
 
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