CK5
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Heaph's Build Thread - Built not Bought

phreddei166 said:
Safety wire job could be a lot tighter ( while its apart why not make it perfect ). Excellent build !!!!!


I had put it together and had shaft binding in spindle. I dissasembled it to check how my welded spiders were seated and took your advice. The binding turned out to be incorrectly installed kingpin caps. I was a bit stressed but now am back on track.

Air power is the balls.
 
I got the same compressor after I did my first K5 build with no air tools. The cheap little 1/2 gun they give you lasted me about a week so I picked up a cheap CH gun and things have been going well ever since. :laugh:

Build's looking good so far, now sell off some parts and get a trailer! :p:
 
keeps bolts from backing off b/c they can't turn w/o pulling on the bolts next to them that they're wired to...
 
Looks awesome nice build!!!! I just spent a while reading up on it way to go cant wai to see this thing as you progress!!!
 
While I have the rear out I might as well take care of that shackle angle. I think I'll move the forward rear hanger back like 2 or 3 inches. If I want to move the axle any farther back than that I could always drill another hole in the perch.

This axle is looking pretty sweet in the baby **** green. Ive got some pinion brake brackets comin then I need to get a couple big chief hydraulic rams, some 1" plate for brackets... then I can tear apart the other front one finish the body, mount the transfer case get the engine started..

oh and I cant forget to take pictures!


angry kits available.

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[quote=chiefheaphy;2065091

This axle is looking pretty sweet in the baby **** green.


"Baby **** green" , thats the same color as mine! Should I go to the doctors?

Your build is unreal and real close. Congrats in advance!
 
While I have the rear out I might as well take care of that shackle angle. I think I'll move the forward rear hanger back like 2 or 3 inches. If I want to move the axle any farther back than that I could always drill another hole in the perch.

This axle is looking pretty sweet in the baby **** green. Ive got some pinion brake brackets comin then I need to get a couple big chief hydraulic rams, some 1" plate for brackets... then I can tear apart the other front one finish the body, mount the transfer case get the engine started..

oh and I cant forget to take pictures!


angry kits available.

I don't know about the shackle angle, to me it looks like if you put any weight on that thing the shackle will be at a better angle quick, and if you move it now to make it at a better angle it will bottom out before it gives the spring a chance to flex.
For a spring that bowed, you need a shackle more like 15" long or so to be functionnal. :eek1:
You are still going to put a panhard bar right?
These springs will fold sideways and your frame could twist like a pretzzle at the spring mounts if you don't have one in there.
 
Iceman makes a good point.

Just out of curiosity: What is the eye-to-eye measurement of those springs (straight across) with a tape measure?

What is the measurement eye-to-eye if you followed the curve of the main leaf?

I'd be curious to know those two numbers, and specifically the difference between the two. As mentioned, if it were possible for that leaf pack to lay-out completely flat while flexing it would be REALLY long compared to it's unloaded dimensions, and that would require a seriously long shackle to accomodate it.

Might be worth investigating (and posting up your numbers) BEFORE you drill any new holes in the frame to relocate your hangers. We'll help you figure out what to do! :thumb:
 
Iceman makes a good point.

Just out of curiosity: What is the eye-to-eye measurement of those springs (straight across) with a tape measure?

What is the measurement eye-to-eye if you followed the curve of the main leaf?

I'd be curious to know those two numbers, and specifically the difference between the two. As mentioned, if it were possible for that leaf pack to lay-out completely flat while flexing it would be REALLY long compared to it's unloaded dimensions, and that would require a seriously long shackle to accomodate it.

Might be worth investigating (and posting up your numbers) BEFORE you drill any new holes in the frame to relocate your hangers. We'll help you figure out what to do! :thumb:


Will do. That would be fantastic!
 
Heres the pinion brake setup I came up with.

Consists of a precut bracket I found on ebay for $30
87 mazda B2000 rotor - $20
87 4WD yota caliper $35+$35 core

comes to about $255 for both side with pads.


Next...get a 2.5X10 CHIEF RAM and some 1" stock to make some brackets out of.


Oh yeah, the rear springs are about 50" eye to eye and 67" along the main leaf.

the fronts are about 46" eye to eye and 56" along the main.

Should I lose a couple leafs and get some longer shackles?


As far as a panhard bar...
I was thinking I could use one of the top plates, there 1/2" steel and the u-bolts are 7/8". This way I could get the panhard much closer to horizontal. Would that be able to handle the force? I was also wondering about using shackles at the ends of the panhard as well.

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sweet! did the rotor line up and just bolt in place or how'd that work?
 
I had to drill holes in the rotor. I could probably bore out the rotor center and mount it to the other side of the yoke. This would probably let me loose the 3/4 nuts I used as spacers. I think I'll just run it like this though.
 
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