Heat Soak problem is back!

[BayouBlazer88]

First off, I'm sorry I didn't reply until now but we just got done with finals so not much time to spend on CK5.

Anyway, I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean for the improvement on the starter. Do you recommend replacing the wire that goes from the remote solenoid to the starter solenoid with a heavier gauge wire? If so, about what gauge do you recommend using? Also, what size wire do you recommend using from the battery to the starter? And one thing I can't understand is why this happening NOW? I converted to a remote solenoid almost a year and half ago and it completely fixed the problem when it was installed. Even last summer I had no problems even in the 100 degree south Louisiana heat. But once it started to get hot this year, warm-starting became a big problem. Maybe the starter itself is starting to go out as well. That's all I can think of. Anyway, thanks for the advice.

 

[TrcksR4ME]

[ QUOTE ]
What fixed it for me was a variation (read: "improvement") on the old remote solenoid trick. Basically, the remote solenoid only triggers the built-in starter solenoid. The current to turn the starter comes directly from the battery.

[/ QUOTE ]

I don't get what your saying here, it seems to me that the remote solenoid replaces the function of the starter mounted one, which is why it works "better" /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

At least with the one I used from Summit, I think I am misunderstanding something here...?

Anyways, I had a hot start problems on my Blazer, but when I did the remore solenoid I also put in a Pro Comp HDX spiral cell battery and all new 2 ga wiring from the battery to the starter. I used factory style cables on the battery with nice boots around the terminals, has helped a lot with the battery connections not getting corroded. After all that the problem dissappeared. Also remember that the battery cables work less efficiently when hot, so if they go near the engine or headers it may also cause some issues with starting.

 

[Blue85]

[ QUOTE ]

I don't get what your saying here, it seems to me that the remote solenoid replaces the function of the starter mounted one, which is why it works "better" /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

At least with the one I used from Summit, I think I am misunderstanding something here...?

[/ QUOTE ] You can't replace the starter-mounted solenoid with a remote mounted one, because the starter-mounted solenoid has two functions.

First, it pushes the gear out to engage with the flywheel/flexplate.

Second, it makes electrical contact to the starter motor.

The timing of the operation is critical, too. If the motor spins before the gear engages, you chew up the flywheel. So you have to use the "local" solenoid no matter what. The stock cable to throw the solenoid is small and very long. The purpose of the remote solenoid is to give lots of current to the local solenoid to ensure that it works properly. It does not have any (direct) advantage in delivering current to the starter motor. 8 or 10 gauge wire is probably good for the remote solenoid to local solenoid wire. The cable from the battery to the starter should be as big as is practical.

 

[Jonny-K5]

i have the same problem on my truck with a new battery and a high torque mini starter. no headers and the truck has trouble starting when hot. after reading all posts i think i need new cables. i would try doing that. i've been told by seasoned mechanics that cables are only good for about 3-5 years, after that its gets corrosion traveling under the insulation.

 

[dyeager535]

Check the connections of the cables themselves, if they are the side terminal style, disassemble and check/clean the ends.

You are the first person I've ever heard that has had hot start problems with a mini starter.