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Hedman Elite Header Review

dyeager535 said:
I think you only have two things to answer: one is the K30 portion, since the frames were a bit different. Only isue is if the shackles are in a different location than the K10/20's, did you read this whole thread to see if anyone has used them in a K30?

Other concern I see is the 4L80E. I don't know enough about them to know if the shift linkage is in a different location that might be an issue. The way the 69830's dump though, I'm guessing the collectors are far enough "forward" to clear. See onetonbb74's pics above. Only issue here would be if the shift linkage is somewhere else other than where the 700's is. I'd expect both to be in same location, but I can't guarantee that.

Should be no fitment issues if you can get the above two answered.
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Ive read all of this & many more.
As far as I can tell shackles mount in the same place.
The 4l80 is a little longer, the linkage is only set back an inch or so farther back.
I'll probably order a set here pretty soon, I was just hoping that someone had done this already & was willing to share the info.

Thank you for all your help so far. :waytogo:
 
I'm holding off purchasing the stainless version of these until I'm actually ready to pull the exhaust off this and bolt them up, just in case they somehow screwed up and they don't fit.
 
rebelgregory said:
Got my 69830s installed. They fit very well and clear everything as this thread has attested to. I went to take it to the exhaust shop to get it mated up to the old exhaust and made it about a mile from the house before the starter wire burned into the header and shorted :doah:. There's no fuse in the starter wire so it melted the terminal out of the battery. Had to get it towed home. Got it all fixed, but had to buy a new battery. I feel like a dope for not checking ahead of time. Just a common-sense warning for others.

...and I still didn't get the exhaust hooked up.
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So I got all of the above sorted out and decided to weld up my own pipes out of some mandrel bent tubing. All went well, started the truck up with a BIG exhaust leak. My new pipes looked ok, collector looked ok, so I figured I must have burned up a gasket, but no, it looked ok too.

So I say to hell with it and pull the header to see what's what. Come to find out, they just didn't bother to weld the entire primary to the flange on the #2 cylinder :eek1:. It's only half welded. Summit is sending me a new set.:dunno:

2015-04-19 13.01.43.jpg

2015-04-19 13.13.09.jpg
 
That looks like a feature....you know, if your muffler got plugged up or something lol.

Are those stainless or coated?
 
I haven't decided whether to go coated or s/s.
I have been getting quotes on the rest of my exhaust
& WOW prices are thru the roof.
Granted it's been more than a few
years since I've gotten exhaust work done but this is crazy.
$925- $1175 & that's using my CATS !!!
Maybe I need to get in the muffler & exhaust business :dunno::dunno:
 
I had the coated, and while I suppose they have held up pretty well, rust eventually forms. Even if you install them properly (I put them on the engine too soon after break in) if you drop a wrench or something you are very likely to scratch the coating.

I plan to go stainless, but at $~650, you better be ready to bolt them on right away to find any potential issues so you can return them.
 
I'm not sure which hedman headers mine currently has on it but after looking at this thread I think the P/O bought the wrong ones. Mine hit the stock shackle and don't seem to work right. Might order a set like the 69830 but not ceramic coated
 
Just to confirm. The "good" headers are 69830. And the stainless steel version on these is 62230?
 
Yeah I missed that... But it wasn't from lack of looking... I thought I had read that somewhere but then I couldnt find it!
 
I was wondering how the cheaper 69230s are lasting for everyone? I don't mind rusty headers and I can't justify the coated header prices for the $500 beater rig. Chances are I'll have to replace the body before I need new headers but want something better than manifolds after the t-case clock.
 
If you strip the rust preventative paint from them, sandblasting works best, and paint them with 2-3 coats of a good high temp paint, they will last a good while. The sandblasting gives the paint a good surface to bite into also. As for the paint to use, I have always used wood stove paint, since I worked in that industry for many years. VHT high temp paint is good also. After painting, you will need to cure the paint properly. If you get them too hot too fast, the paint will burn off.
 
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