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Hedman Elite Header Review

Cricket

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After the Colorado Crew's last trail run I found myself in the market for new headers. On the way home I picked up a significant exhaust noise, I figured it was the standard loose passenger pipe from the collector rubbing the shackle - typical problem with the Dynomax brand. Lo & Behold I had a little suprise in store. Anyone using or considering the use of header wrap is in for a little bad news. That crap kills your headers quick, they literally rot away. After pinpointing the exhaust sputter I found a pinkie finger size hole in the collector where the pipes come together, after unwrapping them here's the end result. These are 2 year old Dynomax steel headers.

So I began shopping around for a new set. I wanted good quality, good fit, no leaks, and an affordable price. I compared tube gage, primary size, head flange thickness, coated and non coated styles, and flanges. This is a short list of the sets I looked at and could afford for a 1977 K10. It is not meant as an "end all" compilation for every vehicle application. It is simply meant to give you a little comparison.

Header Types

1. Summit Standard / $89.95 / 18 Gage - 1 1/2 Primary - 5/16 Flange

2. Summit Ceramic / $178.95 / 18 Gage - 1 1/2 Primary - 5/16 Flange

3. Hooker Comp / $159.95 / 16 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 5/16 Flange

4. Hooker Comp Ceramic / $359.95 / 16 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 5/16 Flange

5. Hooker S-Comp / $409.95 / 18 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 5/16 Flange

6. Hooker S-Comp Ceramic / $659.95 / 18 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 5/16 Flange

7. Hedman Street / $145.95 / 16 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 1/4 Flange

8. Hedman Torque Step / $215.95 / 16 Gage - 1.5 to 1 5/8 P - 1/4 Flange

9. Hedman Elite Ceramic / $269.95 / 14 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 3/8 Flange

10. Dynomax Standard / $185.95 / 18 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 5/16 Flange

11. Dynomax Ceramic / $309.95 / 18 Gage - 1 1/2 Primary - 5/16 Flange

12. Flowtech / $109.95 / 18 Gage - 1 1/2 Primary - 5/16 Flange

13. Flowtech Ceramic / $245.95 - 18 Gage - 1 1/2 Primary - 5/16 Flange

14. Flowtech Afterburner / $179.95 / 18 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 5/16 Flange

15. Thorley Tri-Y / $369.95 / 14 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 3/8 Flange

16. Thorley TY Ceramic / $581.69 / 14 Gage - 1 5/8 Primary - 3/8 Flange

17. JBA Stainless / $749.95 / Shorty - 1 5/8 Primary - 3/8 Flange

I settled on the Hedman Elite series headers, part number 69830. I had heard both good and bad reviews about them here on the site, so I had mixed feelings. However they looked like the best bang for the buck. With 14 gage tube, 3/8 flange, and thermal coat, they are comparable to the well liked Thorley line. The Hedman's turned out to be a very well made product with no clearance issues and were a dream to install. They came wrapped in foam and plastic to prevent rub marks, although they did pick up a few during shipment. They included all hardware and gaskets. The first thing I did was lay them out next to the old Dynomax set, you can see the difference right away. The Dynomax are notorious for rubbing the front leaf rear shackle on the passenger side. I had turned my shackle bolt around and filed the head down and still had rubbing during flex that was bad enough to loosen the header up after a few trips. Here are pics of the side by side comparison & collector clearance issue on the Dynomax.

So on to the install, to be honest it was ridiculously simple. Every set of headers I've ever owned was a PITA to install, I was either fighting clearance or bolt alignment. The Hedman Elite's are designed well enough that you can install them with your spark plugs in place. The bolts threaded right in and were simple to tighten by finger. In other words the fit was excellent. The only thing I changed was the header gasket. I'm running a 1990 TBI engine and the narrow Hedman gaskets intruded into the exhaust path. I found that a set of stock 77 gaskets from Fel-Pro (part #1444) were the perfect match with plenty of material and no interference.

There isn't much else to tell you, the headers went on in a matter of minutes. They tuck up into the engine bay perfectly, no interference on either side. The Elite's are shorter and higher than the old long tubes giving you big gains in clearance. I used some short 2.5" pieces of pipe from Advance Auto to fill the gap long enough to get me to the Exhaust shop. The local exhaust man made a couple of nice short pieces and added the 02 bung in the short section just after the collector. So far I have thrown no codes and the truck runs much smoother.

The thermal coat keeps things cool under the hood, almost as good as the header wrap. I noticed improved torque down low over the previous Dynomax set and the 14 gauge tube keeps things very quiet. The Hedman's also feature a gasketless ball & socket collector. They look like a shoulder joint, and have the ability to move with severe flex. Hedman is way ahead of the game here in my opinion.

I am more than happy with my investment, 269.95 for the headers from Summit, 24.00 for Fel-Pro gaskets, 90.00 for exhaust work equals a total of 383.95 all said and done. I have no problem recommending the Hedman Elite Series to anyone else and have no complaints.
 
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WTF James??????????? I can't believe you didn't drive the Queen with open headers, to the exhaust shop.:doah: I hope these headers last ya for a long time.:bow:
 
Glad you are happy with them!

I was so surprised to see your shackle clearance, I had to doublecheck which part # elites I had...69890. Summit shows them as '82-86K10, while yours shows '67-81.

Now I'm curious as to why they have different ones? Yours are obviously the ones to get to solve the shackle bolt clearance and the protrude under the frame problem that the 69890's have. Not sure why ANYONE would want the 69890's after the problems they cause, compared to the ones you have.
 
I'm glad I saw this. I was planning on wrapping the headers for my GTO project. I have heard that this is a problem but have never seen it. Good info. Thanks.
 
There is a reason that no header manufacturer I'm aware of allows you to use wrap and NOT void their warranty.
 
Do you have a stick or is it auto?

I'd like to do headers and I've been worried that the driver's side rear primary will hit the clutch cross shaft...
 
I'm running a 465. However I have a hydraulic setup on the truck so I don't have that issue. Wish I could help you out but I don't know. Or are you asking about the other project I mentioned?
 
Chevy305 said:
Do you have a stick or is it auto?

I'd like to do headers and I've been worried that the driver's side rear primary will hit the clutch cross shaft...

TH350 auto in my truck. There is a footnote for the 73 to 81 K10's as follows;

47 - Some vehicles may encounter clutch shaft interference when cross shaft location is located under or behind the driver side rear exhaust port. Use HED-69092 without A.I.R. Use HED-69093 with A.I.R. Order Elite HED-69892.

I used Summit's check application feature when doing my shopping, you can also call Hedman direct for a recommendation on which header to purchase.
 
jiminycricket said:
TH350 auto in my truck. There is a footnote for the 73 to 81 K10's as follows;

47 - Some vehicles may encounter clutch shaft interference when cross shaft location is located under or behind the driver side rear exhaust port. Use HED-69092 without A.I.R. Use HED-69093 with A.I.R. Order Elite HED-69892.

I used Summit's check application feature when doing my shopping, you can also call Hedman direct for a recommendation on which header to purchase.

Ok thanks! :wink1:

I do have a body lift... but I'm not sure if that matters.
 
jiminycricket said:
269759933.jpg
James I thought your truck was a '78 or something. What's with the O2 sensor? Am I missing something?

I also have a set of rotted headers and am leaning towards installing these Hedman headers next month. I currently have a quarter size hole in the driver's side collector of my Hookers which I repaired with a patch in the meantime.

*edit* Nevermind about the O2 sensor I just read that you are running a '90 TBI engine...
 
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Very nice!

I went through pretty much the exact same evolution with our cuda. We started with Summit headers. Then we wrapped them, and like you I agree wrapping headers SUCKS. Then we bought Hedman Elites. They are very nice as you can see in your review.
 
Wow, those are really nice looking headers!

I may have to consider a set when mine rot out in the very near future...
 
those are the ones i have, there great, had em for a year so far and they look great still. Great construction
 
Would those work for my 85 Blazer I checked the application with summit and it said up to 81 for blazers but I am thinking that is maybe for the emissions, but all my emissions crap is coming off.
 
As far as I know there is nothing different but you might ask a Blazer owner to jump in and respond. These fit my 90 TBI motor so I don't see a problem.

And just to add these headers looked dipped in thermal coat, not sprayed. That same coating was inside the header tubes and collectors.
 
Yes they will fit, just won't be smog legal. I am running headers form my 77 model on my 87 now. Just don't have the AIR tubes to be smog legal.
 
JEBSR said:
Yes they will fit, just won't be smog legal. I am running headers form my 77 model on my 87 now. Just don't have the AIR tubes to be smog legal.

Awesome because the ones that are smog legal are like $400-$500 :eek1: ! I am definately going to pick a set of these up soon. And I have heard nothing but great things about stage 8 bolts so I think I will get those too. Thanks!
 
Chevy305 said:
Do you have a stick or is it auto?

I'd like to do headers and I've been worried that the driver's side rear primary will hit the clutch cross shaft...

<===

I've got the 69830 Hedmans on my '74 K5 with an SM465 and a manual clutch.

No problems. I love the headers, they went on very easily.

-Ben
 
BigBen said:
<===

I've got the 69830 Hedmans on my '74 K5 with an SM465 and a manual clutch.

No problems. I love the headers, they went on very easily.

-Ben

Thanks thats what I was looking for! :waytogo:
 
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