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Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp! D60 broken stud

K85 Octane

K85 Octane

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OMG I'm up s***'s creek.

It didn't take much to snap this off so I'm kinda glad :confused: it happened while working on it. I pulled the second one out too, figured I'll replace it while I'm here. Oddly enough, it was bent :doah:This might have happened because I don't run a shim on top of the spring plate. Didn't really know about it till recently. :(


So, how the hell do I get this out? I'm really trying to make the Rubicon trip so I'm going over the truck and tightening stuff. Now this happens and I'm nervous. I'm almost positive I'll end up with the city giving me a ticket now :doah:


 
What were you doing when it broke? Do you think it's cross threaded?
 
I was just tightening the nut. I was checking all U-bolts. Sucker was just a tad loose and so I tightened it a little and before I knew it, it was loose again. My face immediately went :(:eek1:
 
hmmmm

ok, I went ahead and welded a nut to the good stud just to get it out easier. Never even tried using two nuts, said eff it and welded a nut on hahaha.

I did this with my broken exhaust stud on my LS, but since the heads are aluminum, it wasn't going to hold the weld. Soooooooo when I was thinking of welding to the broken D60 stud, I though hmmmmm cast iron will hold weld. But I didn't think about using a conical wheel stud nut. I can see that helping to keep weld off the pumpkin.:waytogo:

Thanks
sure beats trying an easy-out
 
I had one break like that and down in a little. Tried welding nuts, drilling, ez out etc. Finally left it and drilled hole and notched the webbing and ran a larger u-bolt.
 
Well I gave up. Before I went crazy I decided to work on the '68 some.

1) I took a dremel tool and ground the top of the stud. Heated, then placed the nut on top and heated it until red. Welded with my 110 highest setting and with gas. Waited 5 minutes. Broke off.

2) Took dremel again to the top of it. Then drilled small dimples in the top (since that's all drill bits do anyway) cleaned. Heated, put bigger conical nut on and heated until red. Waited 20-25 minutes and it broke off faster than the first nut.

I don't have a working vehicle now :( and I'm out of flux core wire. Going to try highest setting with flux tomorrow. Pray for me tonight.
 
K85 Octane said:
Well I gave up. Before I went crazy I decided to work on the '68 some.

1) I took a dremel tool and ground the top of the stud. Heated, then placed the nut on top and heated it until red. Welded with my 110 highest setting and with gas. Waited 5 minutes. Broke off.

2) Took dremel again to the top of it. Then drilled small dimples in the top (since that's all drill bits do anyway) cleaned. Heated, put bigger conical nut on and heated until red. Waited 20-25 minutes and it broke off faster than the first nut.

I don't have a working vehicle now :( and I'm out of flux core wire. Going to try highest setting with flux tomorrow. Pray for me tonight.
Click to expand...


Put that super awesome d44 you used to have back in.. Oh wait :whistle:
 
If I went with two U-bolts on that side, does anyone sell a plate for that? And I'm assuming the U-bolt is the same size as the other one on that side? Any pictures of the notches needed? I'm guessing the lower rib and maybe the one in the back? Any negative side affects to this?


Dooling: I still have some ORD D44 spring plates, would that help? :D
 
Lol. Can you heat that stud up cherry red before welding a nut to it?

Like even if you needed someone helping?
 
Have you tried an EZ out yet?

A 110 volt welder does not have enough balls for this. Remember, when you heat something it expands. If you heat the stud you're making it tighter in the hole. If you heat the housing around the stud, you might have better success.

I like the tapered square EZ out extractors. Drill as centered as you can, and as deep as you can, then use the burliest EZ-out that will seat into the hole. Heat housing around the stud, tap in EZ-out and remove the stud. You want to do this as expeditiously as possible before the stud or the extractor get too hot.

Good luck!
 
tRustyK5 said:
Have you tried an EZ out yet?

A 110 volt welder does not have enough balls for this. Remember, when you heat something it expands. If you heat the stud you're making it tighter in the hole. If you heat the housing around the stud, you might have better success.


Good luck!
Click to expand...

I suggest heating the stud red hot, so that the 110 welder can actually grab some meat on the stud. THen let it cool for a while. Then maybe heat the cast before turning the nut.

Ive never had good luck with ez outs. Heat is the only thing that ever works form me. And if he didnt have an upper shim on that 60, i guarantee the threads are a bit mucked up.
 
I can and I did. Then dropped the nut on and heated it up too.

You mean, try to move into welding sooner? I mean, I hung the gun on the leaf spring, ground already on, heated, dropped the torch, and began welding. I only used a Mapp Gas torch but it got them red.
 
Deuling said:
And if he didnt have an upper shim on that 60, i guarantee the threads are a bit mucked up.
Click to expand...

The other stud came out no problem. In fact, I thread it in by hand and use it for my ground. The hole where the broken stud is doesn't look bad, though that might not mean much. :(

I'm trying the flux core tomorrow after I get a roll. I believe in that over the EZout. I've broken so many. And, I can't drill this damn stud :doah:
 
I'm repeating myself...but a 110 welder does not have the balls for this. The inside ID of the nut is small enough and deep enough to not get a good enough angle to penetrate with any significance before it starts filling the hole.

EZ outs work, but you need to drill as large as possible.

Frankly I'd consider drilling it the tap size for 5/8" NC and re-tap. A mini mag drill would be ideal for that.
 
I deal with this kind of stuff often. Ive never really had consistent luck with ez outs and for something this size I would use one. Rusty is right the 110 mig doesnt have the beans to penetrate that thick of material, even preheated.

While a powerful welder would do the trick there are other ways of dealing with this issue. The first is the painful drilling out of the stud. You start with a smaller drill then work up to a size that will weaken the walls of the stud. If you know someone with a plasma you could have it burned out but it would take some work to repair it afterwards.

Ive drilled and tapped left hand too so that when you tighten the bolt your loosening your stud but that is an involved project lol.

Its also a good idea to soak the stud in a pool of perpetrating oil. I highly recommend mixing 50/50 acetone and atf. acetone will wick the atf down the threads of the stud so it will be fully lubricated.

Best of luck I know how this stuff sucks!
 
K85 Octane said:
If I went with two U-bolts on that side, does anyone sell a plate for that? And I'm assuming the U-bolt is the same size as the other one on that side? Any pictures of the notches needed? I'm guessing the lower rib and maybe the one in the back? Any negative side affects to this?
Click to expand...

I'm quoting myself cause I want another option, like a fall back plan so at least I can make Rubicon. :waytogo:
 
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