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Help a noob out with his first k5 purchase

so the tbi is only on 87 and newer?

i am under the impression that anything under an '87 doesnt have to pass my local emission test by the same standards as modern cars. Is that right?

Is it that year specifically? or is it like a rule about being 23 years old or something?

can anyone explain or send me a link to a good explanation of what tbi is, and why its better? I really need to learn the basics of why, not just that I want tbi.

thanks
 
Throttle Body Injection... Simple but effective factory fuel injection. My '86 carbed chevy 2wd truck was good for 10-12 mpg, my '91 4wd blazer with TBI in stock form averages 16+ mpg consistently. Emissions depends on where you live, Different everywhere.
 
I found the answer to one of my questions. Its not related to the year 1987 specifically....its anything older than 24 years. So, maybe I can shoot for an '87 model and still be ok. Will these things pass emissions with headers and exhaust? most I am looking at already have those.

Which vehicles are required to have the emissions test?

  • Vehicles registered in designated counties. Designated counties include: Brazoria, Fort Bend, Galveston, Harris, Montgomery, Collin, Dallas, Denton, Ellis, Johnson, Kaufman, Parker, Rockwall, Tarrant, Travis, Williamson and El Paso counties.
  • Gasoline powered vehicles. Diesel powered vehicles and motorcycles are exempt from emissions testing, but are still required to have the annual safety inspection.
  • Vehicles 2 through 24 years old OR upon expiration of the two-year initial inspection sticker.
 
Mileage would be great! hell I only get 15mpg in my awd ridgeline!!! would be crazy to get better in an old v8 blazer!
 
Not really, i have heard alot of owners complain about them in terms of mileage. I think its the awd system. either way, i never expected to complain about a honda's gas mileage. my civic gets 40!
 
Throttle body injection

Throttle-body injection (called TBI by General Motors and Central Fuel Injection (CFI) by Ford) . The TBI system injects fuel at the throttle body (the same location where a carburetor introduced fuel). The induction mixture passes through the intake runners like a carburetor system, and is thus labelled a "wet manifold system". Fuel pressure is usually specified to be in the area of 10-15 psi.





I guess that makes sense on why mileage is better with more precise fuwl delivery...but is it easier to work on/maintain? I have alot of carb experience on a motorcycle.
 
http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/2143983766.html

on that one, he mentions a few things i dont quite understand.

"rear drive shaft rebuilt and lengthened by Inland Truck (Austin Drivetrain"
---rebuild because it was just old? or is this an upgrade...and why lengthened...because of lift?

"blazer comes with an extra set of axles. they have richmond 5.11 gears"
---why would you have extra axles, and is 5.11 gears something good? or does it mean its been worked hard?

thanks for not talking smack about how uneducated i am on this stuff. im not just looking for a truck to look cool in...i actually want to learn this stuff.
 
Wow, I had no idea. I figured those things would be in the 20's... I've been on a mission for fuel mileage, I need this truck as my daily driver to get me into work even in a blizzard. I put approximately 40 miles a day, sometimes more. I run 31" all season tires with the stock axles and gears. So far only mod is a flowmaster catback exhaust, and I rebuilt the TBI. Replaced almost all the sensors and did a thorough tuneup. When I first bought it I was only getting about 12 mpg, so I'm really happy with the gains so far. Next on the wish list is a high flow cat and a k&n filter in the stock filter housing. Might try some of the TBI mods from thirdgen.org...
 
"thanks for not talking smack about how uneducated i am on this stuff. im not just looking for a truck to look cool in...i actually want to learn this stuff."

I'd rather people do what your doing than make the mistakes many of us made in the past... I'd rather see you find a truck you can use and not take a beating on, so many guys on here buy a junk truck and then struggle or give up because it was junk. I'm not going to lie to you, for what I have in mine now I could have a much nicer one to begin with. Seriously do your research an you'll be much happier in the end.
 
dieselndixie said:
thanks for not talking smack about how uneducated i am on this stuff. im not just looking for a truck to look cool in...i actually want to learn this stuff.
Click to expand...


If I had been able to have access to this site years ago when I bought my 1990 Blazer, it would've saved me from either buying it in the first place or waste dollar after dollar on the wrong parts, (like $1200 to rebuild the 10 bolt rear). :doah:


Information is the best tool you can have when it comes to buying vehicles and this place has saved many of us from just diving in and making a boo boo.
 
dieselndixie said:
I guess that makes sense on why mileage is better with more precise fuwl delivery...but is it easier to work on/maintain? I have alot of carb experience on a motorcycle.
Click to expand...
TBI is easy to work on IF you have the shop manual - which you can get for about $25 - $50 depending on the condition. It's a super simple system physically, but requires on a variety of sensors (O2, coolant, MAP) to work properly. If something goes wrong, you just have to know how to read the computer codes (easy) and what to test (easy). There is nothing like working on your truck and having the ECU telling you what is wrong! :D

I used to be a carb guy, but learned about fuel injected vehicles. I will never drive a carbureted vehicle again. Fuel injected vehicles get better mileage, often have more power, start great in cold weather, and are pretty simple to work on.

When I bought my new 1991 K5 I put in new fuel injectors ($75/ea) and a new fuel pressure regulator ($15? I dunno) and it took me about an hour. The hardest part was scraping the old gaskets off. It has about 10 screws I had to remove to do the work and they just drop in.

You don't have to adjust float bowls, you don't have to adjust the jets, you don't have to fuss with the choke.

There are many reasons why no new car uses a carb any more!
 
dieselndixie said:
http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/2143983766.html

on that one, he mentions a few things i dont quite understand.

"rear drive shaft rebuilt and lengthened by Inland Truck (Austin Drivetrain"
---rebuild because it was just old? or is this an upgrade...and why lengthened...because of lift?

"blazer comes with an extra set of axles. they have richmond 5.11 gears"
---why would you have extra axles, and is 5.11 gears something good? or does it mean its been worked hard?

thanks for not talking smack about how uneducated i am on this stuff. im not just looking for a truck to look cool in...i actually want to learn this stuff.
Click to expand...

He probably had the driveshaft lengthened and rebuilt because of the lift.
The extra diff's he has he may have bought and hadn't gotten to installing yet. His gearing claim is wrong though. Gearing would be 4.10, 4.56, 4.88 or 5.13. I'm guessing he meant 4.10 as 5.13's would be pretty extreme for that tire combo. Either way you'd be best to either have him pull the covers off or do it yourself and see what the ring gear stamping says. The ratio will be stamped there.

Rene
 
well, i am still looking around for the right blazer deal to come around.

I can say, that with the info this site has given me..
1. I want a 350 tbi engine
2. I want a 4 speed automatic
3. I want to end up with a 4" lift and 35" tires
4. I want the interior sprayed with bedliner
5. I want the sliding rear windows

Now, to find it...

Question: The blazer in this craigslist ad...that looks just about exactly like what i am wanting in the end. Please tell me it can be similarly built for less money than he is asking for it?
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ctd/2185347221.html
 
dieselndixie said:
Question: The blazer in this craigslist ad...that looks just about exactly like what i am wanting in the end. Please tell me it can be similarly built for less money than he is asking for it?
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ctd/2185347221.html
Click to expand...

Well , that appears to be on a dealer lot, so overpriced from the get go, it also looks like a late 80's early 90's mall crawler build, with the trussed 10 bolts :haha:. Big tires, auto trans with a 305 , can you say "under powered" , not to mention the dealer lists it as having new Mickey Thompson tires, hmm I didn't realize they made swampers :dunno: :haha: .
For what you are looking for, I think it is definitely possible for your price range. Not that it helps you, but locally there is a 91 for sale , been listed for a few weeks now, 350, fresh auto, straight body, no real rust ( at least by MD standards) new 32's and a small lift asking 2300 and it's still for sale.
 
you would spend more money bringing it back from hell, than starting from something and doing it yourself. This is junk with big tires and nosebleed price.
TBI motors are 87-91 I believe.
 
Patience grasshopper, a deal will come along and you will need the cash right away. Only blazer I have paid full asking price for is my diesel jimmy but he threw in a fresh 700 because the old one was on its way out
 
If your close to it, go check it out, at least for the education of the experience. Drive it, you might find you hate driving a lifted truck with tires like that for what you want to do... Overpriced? Yes, but it's a dealer and he will come down. I'd be concerned what all that bedliner is hiding, check the rockers, where the seatbelts mount, floor crossmembers and tailpan. Look for cracks in the frame. Someone went to a lot of trouble to truss 10 bolt stock axles? Rear is lifted with blocks (not the favorite method on here). Rebuilt trans and motor? Only if he can prove it with receipts. If he's a dealer he picked that thing up dirt cheap, low ball offer him if it looks really good. Looks like it has AC, but if it's not working it cost me $700 last time to get mine going again...
 
So, is it realistic to think that I can find a decent condition great running 87-91 for $2k. That is stock except for maybe some 33" tires. Something that can go to the coast and go trail riding and camping right away? Then, as i go along and learn more, I can start to mod it for some more serious terrain?

I guess a big question, is how capable is a totally stock k5?

In order, my concerns are:
1. reliability (camping, offroading, and coast are all between 1-4hrs away)
2. body - not worried about dents and scuffs, but no major rust issues
3. interior - dont want to get an infection sitting in the seats, but dont want to worry about a muddy rottweiler getting it messed up.
4. paint - really dont care...hoping for exterior bedliner or atleast flat black-buddy is a painter
 
I'm a big fan of starting from scratch with an unmolested truck. Then you don't have to deal with the stupid things guys do when modifying. I've been burned too many times by crappy work of previous owners. These trucks are still around. Remember, the average person doesn't want these trucks, only guys like us do so they typically don't sell very quickly... So don't feel like your going to miss out on anything, most people that are selling trucks like these right now are selling because they either can't afford to drive them, or they can't justify the cost of fixing them. The economys bad and fuel prices are high. The balls in your court, not the sellers in my opinion... Don't be afraid to low ball and walk away, but leave your number, you might get some calls in a few weeks if you've got the money.
 
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