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Help a noob out with his first k5 purchase

how can i get a good feel for what they are capable of in stock (minor upgrade) form?

aside from riding in one.

anyone got pics, stories, details on some stock adventures?

If I can buy one for $2k that is ready to drive...then I will have around $1200 right off the bat for minor stuff.
 
Stock blazers are very capable in stock form. Usually being limited by the type, not size, of tire they have. If you take the sway bar off they flex pretty good for a stock truck. Add a rear locker in a stock truck and you can get in a whole lotta trouble.

I would say under 2k you are going to have to do some stuff to it.

Here is the thing though, if you find what you want and its say 4500. Has a lift tires that are newer etc. Stuff is done right. You will be dollars ahead buying that.
 
Here is the thing though, if you find what you want and its say 4500. Has a lift tires that are newer etc. Stuff is done right. You will be dollars ahead buying that.
:waytogo:
scary true, if it's done right.
some of us are way picky and slight masochists, so we do the work ourselves
 
thats where I am stuck....

do I buy the stock truck for cheap, and spend the next couple years making it my own...

or do I spend my whole budget buying one that has lift, tires, upgrades etc...

not sure yet, kinda just waiting on the best deal i can find to dictate the direction.
 
waiting is good
but blowing ur whole budget is scary, say if that awesome truck needs something a few months after you bought it. That's where trucks get flipped, sold over and over to others.
 
I dont know that I have enough knowledge to be able to determine if a PO has done the lift right, or done the mods and rebuilds right.

it is a gamble no matter what?
 
http://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/2191531698.html

Looks decent..but is the 305, and no tbi....

this one has no tbi
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/2190820331.html

another one
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/2188546880.html

this one looks promising...
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/2187229939.html
....****, no 4x4 working, says it could be the hubs. also " the transmission shifts very good, however when you put the truck in reverse or drive the truck jumps when the transmission engages, to me it feels like it may need new transmission mounts."

another
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/2185575648.html

this one is local
http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/2143983766.html
 
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I dont know that I have enough knowledge to be able to determine if a PO has done the lift right, or done the mods and rebuilds right.

it is a gamble no matter what?

Not really look for extended brake lines. Look for what brand the springs are. See how the rear was lifted, blocks are the cheapest, springs and or shackle flip are both very good. Look for steering correction. See how much of the slip yoke of the driveshaft is showing (to determine if they have been lengthened). The thing nearly no one does is gears, most just lift it and leave stock gears, if it has aftermarket gears it was more than likely done right.

Look for obvious hack fixes. Wire holding up the exhaust, wood screws anywhere run away fast, house carpet in the cab, crappy welds, ill fitting aftermarket stuff.

Look for signs of hard off road use, scrapes or dents in the gas tank skid, undercarriage, on the skid plate for the t-case.

Important to use overall condition too. If there is tons of grease on the underside of the body it means stuff is leaking. If the underside is very very clean it could just mean a recent cleaning, take it for a drive and as soon as you get back crawl under it.

It may take till spring time or even later to find what you want. You also need to figure out how far you are willing to travel. We have lots of guys around this site who are perfectly willing to go look at something for ya.
 
I like the 87 but not for that price. If you can scrounge up a local guy who knows these truck to take with you that would be good. The 4x4 not working could be something simple. You are looking at 1500 bucks probably for trans work.

I would ask for receipts for the rebuilt motor. But I would probably go look at that one
 
It passed smog, new tires, working AC, and from the pics looks nice and solid... I'd choose it over that '87 myself. The '86 doesn't look beat to death, where as a lot of these other look like they've lived hard lives... I'd buy the nicest drivable truck you can, because it's more fun drivin it than working on it all the time. Remember why you want it, so you can do all the other things you enjoy... 305 vs 350, carb vs TBI? It's all up to you.
 
as a newbie looking for easy to work on, and reliable...more so than monster truck capability...how will i know if I really want the 350 vs 305 and tbi vs carb? I am kinda just going off of what I am reading most people are after
 
A stock 305 will have slightly less power than a stock 350. The TBI will get slightly better fuel mileage in stock form, assuming they are both tuned up and running perfectly... As soon as you start putting bigger tires etc... fuel milage drops usually. I've had both a carbed 305, and the TBI 350. I liked both but prefer the TBI personally, mainly for the fuel economy. But if a nice carbed truck came along for the right price? I'd jump all over it. Let's say you buy a Blazer and hate it... Which one do you think would be easier to sell??? Just another way of looking at what your investing your hard earned cash in...

By the way, you owe us all a round of adult beverages when you finally find the right truck for you!!! Remember what they say about opinions...
 
man, i know it, and I cant thank yall enough for taking the time to read and comment on my stuff.

Im just the kinda guy that has to obsess over something until I know enough to make the right decision. I would love nothing more than to be out there crawling on rocks, or fishing at the coast right now in a K5...but just like my 1971 cutlass...I like to keep things and dump money into them:doah:

so, I want to start off right with this....im sure it will be an ongoing project.
 
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/2185575648.html

curious...what would you offer this guy...assuming everything checks out?

...i really like it btw

Well , the auto hubs are junk so you'll have to replace those. It has a body lift so the bumpers don't line up with the body. It has dual pipes so it won't pass inspection , need to put single pipe with a cat on it. If you want dual pipes and pass inspection you cannot get newer than 1978. Go get that black one for 2900 and be happy.
 
I would skip the 305 carb. Stick to a TBI one. Also, if you go with the SM465 manual, you don't have to worry about transmission problems like you do with the TH700R4 automatic. If you are stuck on getting an automatic, than definitely stay away from the carb'ed Blazers. The 1987+ TH700R4 has a bunch of upgrades (bigger input shaft, better pump, valve body redesign, etc) that make it a much better transmission than the earlier TH700R4's.

When the TH700R4 goes out (and they do regularly), it will cost you $1,500 or more to fix it.

Martin
 
Well , the auto hubs are junk so you'll have to replace those. It has a body lift so the bumpers don't line up with the body. It has dual pipes so it won't pass inspection , need to put single pipe with a cat on it. If you want dual pipes and pass inspection you cannot get newer than 1978. Go get that black one for 2900 and be happy.


My 83 has duals and passes...
 
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