HELP!!! Dangerous brake problem needs resolved TONITE. (MONDAY)

[Muddytazz]

My 77 manaul says

50 inner, back off, then re-torque to 35, then back off 1/4 turn
65 outer

90 for the shaft to hub bolts

 

[goldwing2000]

I said back off but I forgot to add 1/4 turn. I set mine up identical to my Front 60 and have had no issues. I also run about 1.5 gallons of gear oil in mine so the wheel bearings are def getting lube.

Ira

You said back off after the 50 ft-lbs but not after the 35. If you leave the adjuster nut at 35 ft-lbs, it will wear out the bearings prematurely.

 

[sandawgk5]

So we are arguing torque specs to a difference of 5-15 ft-lbs. Did Colby get his brakes fixed yet. Mine lock up but I think it is because I have the lines swapped on the MC so the rears come in before the fronts. I gotta fix that but need to get my bleeder put together first.

Ira

 

[goldwing2000]

My 77 manaul says

50 inner, back off, then re-torque to 35, then back off 1/4 turn
65 outer

90 for the shaft to hub bolts

My '79 book says the same for bearing adjustment but different torque spec for the axle.

Weird. I wonder what changed between '77 and '79.

So we are arguing torque specs to a difference of 5-15 ft-lbs.

Actually, we're arguing 25 ft-lbs.

 

[colbystephens]

got it all taken care of - took it out for a spin and it worked great in the rain - no more lock up!!! HUGE thanks.

 

[roadnotca]

ok, so the rain just started here (actually, we're on flood watch) and it's the first time i've driven my rig in the rain.

background.

while i'm pretty sure the concept of the e-brake is pretty easy, and i think i understand it, maybe i need an explanation about how the e-brake works. when i built my rig, i took the e-brake line which goes from the line which comes off of the pedal to the lines which come off of the drums on the 14bff - so, essentially it's the middle section which is missing. anyway, i have that in my garage, but i took the hangars for this piece off of my rig too, and can't remember how it goes back.

anyway, here's the story. i think that the e-brake on my passenger side drum is slightly engaged b/c as i hit the brakes in neutral (i have an sm465), it locks up real easy. i try to leave it in gear as long as possible, to force the wheel to spin as i'm braking, and while this helps, being that i'm not lockered out back the brake still locks up, and any force on turning the wheels is all directed to the driver side wheel.

so, two real questions:

1. how do i make sure that my e-brakes are fully DISengaged, without the lines being hooked up to the pedal.
2. anyone have a diagram or good explanation of how the cables run so i can hook this sh*t back up?

no help here, I'm onstock 10Bs.

 

[colbystephens]

that's coo, man. we got it taken care of. thanks for looking it up for me tho.

 

[norville]

Could you folks please go over those torque specs on the hubs one more time.

In the order I would do them when replacing assembly after brake work.

Thank you, I hope this isn't concidered hijacking. I just got lost in the shuffle.

bob

 

[pvfjr]

Don't worry about hijacks. If one thread can be made to help multiple people, it'll be less clutter in the garage anyway. Hope this clears it up.

Torque the inner hub nut to 55 ft lbs while spinning the hub to get the bearings seated properly.

Back it off

Retorque the inner hub nut to 35 ft lbs again while spinning the wheel.

Back it off 1/4 turn

Bend in the tabs to the lock ring to lock the inner nut in place

Install and tighted the outer hub nut to 65 ft lbs

Install shaft, torque the 8 axle shaft bolts to 90 ft lbs (or 115, depends on your tech info)