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Help drivelineman!

85mudblazin said:
But you dont have alot of flex so that little shaft is never going to see the angle like a rig with alot of flex would.
Correct. I am going coils-overs so I NEED a high pinion to make up for the travel Im about to get, And I will have a 1 piece drive line.
 
lots of people seem to be using / suggesting band aids. Why not just have your front axle cut/rotated so the pinion points up however high you want it. Super spendy joints and other bling won't be required then.

j
 
jekbrown said:
lots of people seem to be using / suggesting band aids. Why not just have your front axle cut/rotated so the pinion points up however high you want it. Super spendy joints and other bling won't be required then.

j
Well I dont think a high pinion center section is a band aid... I think everything else is a band aid when you get to the point of bad angles and trying to be as flat as possible.......My 2 piece drive line was an expensive band aid and so is any other high dollar crazy angle drive line, But they work If you know their limmits.
 
hi pinion is definitely a good option... I was reffering to increasingly high angle CV joints (which cost a lot and are going to be $pendy to replace if busted), huge degree shims and the like. If you can afford a whole new center section, it is definitely the way to go! If you can't, having the thing cut/rotated is a very good option. I'll prolly wait until I link the front of my K5 and then just get a currie rock jock center section at that time. Light weight, hella clearance and high pinion. ohhh yeaaah. :grin: They are $1200 or so... but hey, its all good. :thumb:

j
 
jekbrown said:
hi pinion is definitely a good option... I was reffering to increasingly high angle CV joints (which cost a lot and are going to be $pendy to replace if busted), huge degree shims and the like. If you can afford a whole new center section, it is definitely the way to go! If you can't, having the thing cut/rotated is a very good option. I'll prolly wait until I link the front of my K5 and then just get a currie rock jock center section at that time. Light weight, hella clearance and high pinion. ohhh yeaaah. :grin: They are $1200 or so... but hey, its all good. :thumb:

j
What would you rather do, spend all the time and money to put in a new center section or make a phone call and bolt in a driveshaft in 10 minutes??

I dont think HA driveshafts and shims are a bandaid idea at all.:confused:
 
yep you just arent cool unless you have a Hi Pinion:p: :D
110-1082_IMG.jpg
 
yeah the rockcrusher stuff is cheap. Currie one is spendy because its aluminum. Personally I think the 4000 pound thing is bunk. Add a serious truss and 0.375wall DOM tubes too it and it'd be fine. Same "ratings" say its good for up to 44" tires too.

j
 
$475....mmmmmm yummay. So nice how prices on 60 stuff are coming down. Between Yukon making 4340 shafts and more companies making cool u-joints, things are getting better by the day for the consumer. Now all we need is a cheap alternative in the knuckle area. I think I heard Yukon is making some... but I haven't seen them yet.

j
 
jekbrown said:
lots of people seem to be using / suggesting band aids. Why not just have your front axle cut/rotated so the pinion points up however high you want it. Super spendy joints and other bling won't be required then.

j

Rotating the pinion doesn't fix the angle problem from the t-case to the pinion. The only thing rotating fixes is binding at the pinion yoke and castor. Shims are the band-aids there. Length, less clocking, and less lift fixes operating angles. Most of us don't want length or less clocking so a big cv or superflex joints are your options.

My driveshaft had 24* of angle sitting on all four tires on a flat surface. I spent a boat load of money to fix that problem. I did it wheeling the piss out of an HAD 42* cv.
 
There was a post a while back about using the flange from the stock CV, removing the center part of the cv, and then run a single combination U-joint to allow for more angle. Can anybody tell me how well this holds up and what angles are possible. Thanks.
 
Nonesuch said:
Rotating the pinion doesn't fix the angle problem from the t-case to the pinion. The only thing rotating fixes is binding at the pinion yoke and castor.

I hadn't thought about the t-case end of things.. I have a HAD shaft and never have any problems there (knock on wood). Having a low pinion on my d60 that kinda points down a little is my problem. Things are gonna get worse when I put my doubler in especially since I run 52/56" springs (mad droop). Yeah, I'll gain driveline length, but the 205 is also clocked. Maybe a rockcrusher center section is in my future. We'll see. A higher pinion is always nice. One cool thing about Rockwells.

Shims are the band-aids there. Length, less clocking, and less lift fixes operating angles. Most of us don't want length or less clocking so a big cv or superflex joints are your options.

who doesn't want more length? :grin: Few extra inches of wheelbase never hurt anyone. :thumb:

j
 

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