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Help F!!K!!N!! knock sensor

mr250twostroke

mr250twostroke

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
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Location
Eatonville, Wa
Last night the all reliable GM starter (solenoid) in my burb left me in the Home Depot parking lot untill a nice enough guy hopped in side and cranked while I beat it with a hammer in the pooring rain:mad::mad::mad: till it started (wow, is that a sentence ?). I went straight home and consumed ice cold beer, tomorrows another day.
Today I go to yank my starter and manage to smack my knock sensor with a flagrant backhand and bust it. Damn it. Napa gives me my new starter and my new $44 knock sensor :doah:. Now I cant get the busted sensor out with out rounding it off. Its like a molded nut that seems soft and is hard to get a good bite/angle on. I dont want to bust it off in the block:eek1:.
Any ideas? Help, its my only rig with heater at the moment.
Thanks hugely in advance,
Dustin
 
Now I cant get the busted sensor out with out rounding it off. Its like a molded nut that seems soft and is hard to get a good bite/angle on. I dont want to bust it off in the block:eek1:.
Click to expand...

I agree that busting a nut in your block is bad. I'd say you have a few options depending on how much room is available and how broken it is. if you can get one of those extractor sockets on there that bites into rounded bolt heads and stuff, you're set. if not, vice grips, if they'll fit.

i think the idea behind those stupid molded nuts is that they'll collapse before they allow you to snap the sensor off in the block.
 
Sh!T! Heat, PB blaster and foul encouragement left me this-

a016.jpg

a018.jpg


It busted and and left me a 1/2" stud sticking out. Should I use heat PB heat PB? Ideas?
Thanks again-
 
vortec said:
I agree that busting a nut in your block is bad. I'd say you have a few options depending on how much room is available and how broken it is. if you can get one of those extractor sockets on there that bites into rounded bolt heads and stuff, you're set. if not, vice grips, if they'll fit.

i think the idea behind those stupid molded nuts is that they'll collapse before they allow you to snap the sensor off in the block.
Click to expand...

Thanks, ive had a pipe wrench (6") and vice grips on it and this muthas tite.
More heat?
Thanks-
 
EDIT: when you heat it, what are you heating? block alone or block and sensor "stump". i really don't know the total composition of the sensor, so it may expand faster/more than the cast iron block, making your job harder. however, the heat/cool cycling may allow the rust and corrosion to break down after a while.

no way in hell you could drill and use and ease-out. I've got to say extractor again. it would be even easier now than before. I keep meaning to get a set of those things.

boltgrip.jpg


if you have a dremel, you could cut/grind flat sides on it for a wrench. not ideal, though.
 
Those are the best things in my tool box

vortec said:
EDIT: when you heat it, what are you heating? block alone or block and sensor "stump". i really don't know the total composition of the sensor, so it may expand faster/more than the cast iron block, making your job harder. however, the heat/cool cycling may allow the rust and corrosion to break down after a while.

no way in hell you could drill and use and ease-out. I've got to say extractor again. it would be even easier now than before. I keep meaning to get a set of those things.

boltgrip.jpg


if you have a dremel, you could cut/grind flat sides on it for a wrench. not ideal, though.
Click to expand...
 
I have used a dremel in the past by just cutting a slot in the top fairly deep and used a flat head bit on a drill to get a broken bolt out that was broken off near flush. I dont know if it was wedged in as tight as yours though.
 
adamforsythe said:
Those are the best things in my tool box
Click to expand...

Does Sears have em?
The heat was more to break it up if poss, the sender would expand as you said.
The drill/extractor is all I have left and agree NFW thats gonna work. Broke more of those than been successful with:doah:. I need your extractor set and a new best tool:D!
Try Sears?
Thanks, Dustin
 
Wow, I just went down to a 7" vice grip. Snapped my fingers in half locking the things:eek1: and they just took that much metal off the stud.
Im hestitant to do anything with a dremel and make the stub any weaker.
I gotta find those extractor sockets!
Dustin
 
I cant let go of the heat part? The new sensor has a locking compound on the tip. Wouldnt enough heat eventually melt and let loose any locktight stuff (shrugs, picks up more straws)?
Dustin
 
Yeah they should have those extractors at sears I have a set made by craftsman and pretty sure Ive seen them there before. Also they have them at Menards in there tool department. About 20$ for the set of 5 Work great for me Ive used them quite a bit when replacing rusty brake line and getting the rusted fittings off the proportioning valve and whatnot.
 
It's not loc-tite, it's sealant.

MIG weld a nut to it?

Is that a propane bottle? You need an acetylene torch for enough heat to expand the metal surface to free up the stuck bolt/whatever.

Bigger pipe wrench (more leverage) should work if it will fit. If you are using the wrench right, it won't slip. I understand it's likely pretty tight under there.
 
dyeager535 said:
It's not loc-tite, it's sealant.

MIG weld a nut to it?

Is that a propane bottle? You need an acetylene torch for enough heat to expand the metal surface to free up the stuck bolt/whatever.

Bigger pipe wrench (more leverage) should work if it will fit. If you are using the wrench right, it won't slip. I understand it's likely pretty tight under there.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Im gonna mig a nut to it tomorrow. Acetylenes empty. Guess Ill fill that tomorrow too. Still gonna get those socket extractors though.
Dustin
 
Heres some links to extractor sockets for anyone the can use a set.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...,+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...,+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...,+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...,+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...,+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...,+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...,+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies

Ill be going there in about 3 1/2 hrs to get some and update after ive got this busted stud out (positive thinking, positive results). Id rather do it this way than weld a nut to it .
Thanks for the help as always:waytogo:,
Dustin
 
good luck. i think they'll do the trick. It might still nees some loosening, but those tools will give you a positive grip on it. you might actually have more trouble backing the dumb thing back out of the extractor once you remove it from the block. ha. they really bite into stuff. but that's a better problem to have.

Oh, and i didn't see it mentioned, so i'll say the obvious...don't do this job with the engine at operating temp.
 
That thing should work well.. Just make sure you use a size you think might be too tight, then try and hammer it gently to get it started. This will ensure a good bite. If you use the size too large, it will just end up being like a pencil sharpener.
 
Pookster said:
That thing should work well.. Just make sure you use a size you think might be too tight, then try and hammer it gently to get it started. This will ensure a good bite. If you use the size too large, it will just end up being like a pencil sharpener.
Click to expand...

Your totally right, its out, but Im screwed and updating momentarily. Its taking me a minute with this photobucket stuff (what a hassle).
Dustin
 
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