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Help I need driveshaft school....

Stomis

Stomis

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Lol. I think this is kinda ironic. All the stuff Ive built, help build, read, etc ,etc. I never ever got into driveshafts. All I know from the racecar world is 1350 or bust lol but now Im reading the web and finding size vs strength vs angle kinda complicates a simple mentality. Im putting this truck together on the cheap, so harvesting some stock stuff or cheaper replacement spicer stuff is ideal.

So far Im pretty sure the front is gonna be square tube, 1330 at the transfer case and at the dana 44. I was going to go 1350 but apparently the 1330 is much better in the angle department. Is that correct?

What should I run in the rear? I would like to run a CV ( at least I think) so I can just point my rear pinion right at the tcase and never have any vibes.

Side note the thing is only a 305 TBI with 2.7:1 low. I really dont have any intentions of utterly flogging it.
 
I've run 1310s in the front for years. Unless you changed the drive yoke on the 44, that's what it likely is

I recently got a driveshaft from Tom Woods in 1350 Cv for the back. Mailed it to my house. His site has a ton of that funny math and stuff with pictures
 
Bent77 said:
I've run 1310s in the front for years. Unless you changed the drive yoke on the 44, that's what it likely is

I recently got a driveshaft from Tom Woods in 1350 Cv for the back. Mailed it to my house. His site has a ton of that funny math and stuff with pictures
Click to expand...
Yeah unfortunately the Dana 44 has a toyota flange on it right now which I dont want anymore. I had originally planned on running toyota case in this so the plan was to keep the driveshafts all toyota...

I figured since I have to buy a yoke I might as well go up a size on the u joint. I dont doubt that a 1310 is probably enough for this rig but if I have to buy/source yokes anyway I might as well make it stronger.
 
That's a fair assessment. A 1330 has the same size caps as a 1310, but the cross is larger. Probably some difference in strength there, likely not an issue

However finding a used D44 - 1310 yoke for beer money prices might be easy, and might match your case?
 
Bent77 said:
That's a fair assessment. A 1330 has the same size caps as a 1310, but the cross is larger. Probably some difference in strength there, likely not an issue

However finding a used D44 - 1310 yoke for beer money prices might be easy, and might match your case?
Click to expand...


Ironically the 1310 has a 30* operating angle vs the 1330s 20*. So I guess Ill just go for a stock yoke because you dont gain anymore angle back until a 1410 and thats crazy big and they dont even make it for a dana 44.

So that solves the front then. Single 1310 on either side, square driveshaft.


So am I wrong for wanting a CV in the back? Also whats the best CV? I really dont want the odd ball GM one. Does a 1310 CV exist?


Looks like I need a TJ front shaft to harvest for the ends... 1310 CV and 1310 at the yoke.
 
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You don't need a cv in the rear but you might want one. If you have a long drive shaft without a ton of lift you will be fine without. Tom woods just made me a 1410 rear without the cv. I told them what it was in, how long and the height difference from output yoke to the axle yoke. They knew exactly what to do from there. The new 1410 was $340 delivered, the 1410 cv would have all most doubled that.
 
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Details on the rig and suspension and what trans and tcase will help guide you for the rear driveshaft.

I prefer the Ford superduty front driveshaft as a rear. You will need a fixed yoke transfer case and a flange to mate it to.

It is 1350 and pretty tough overall.
 
Hopefully these are available in Stomis Land. Before I ordered mine I looked, but no avail
 
@Stomis i ran a one piece 2 joint in my K10 for awhile. Only issue was rock humpage

Once I went Doubler I went with a CV rear (56" length). Not sure a CV was necessary, but I had to buy a driveshaft, so MAW
 
Stomis said:
Ironically the 1310 has a 30* operating angle vs the 1330s 20*. So I guess Ill just go for a stock yoke because you dont gain anymore angle back until a 1410 and thats crazy big and they dont even make it for a dana 44.

So that solves the front then. Single 1310 on either side, square driveshaft.


So am I wrong for wanting a CV in the back? Also whats the best CV? I really dont want the odd ball GM one. Does a 1310 CV exist?


Looks like I need a TJ front shaft to harvest for the ends... 1310 CV and 1310 at the yoke.
Click to expand...

If you want a 1310 cv you can find them on older (70s) 1/2 ton Chevy front drive shafts.. Maybe on 3/4s also. The way to tell 1310 from 3R joints is where the clips are. The 1310 has the clips outside the caps and 3Rs are on the inside. For a rear I would just use a front out of a Super Duty. I find them in local wrecking yards for under $100 and for a rear in a K5 they just need shortened. And balanced for road use. On the front I wouldn't worry too much about a 1310 shaft. I have blown up four 1/2 ton front axles and now beat the heck out of a D60 with a big block and still have the stock 1984 front shaft! Granted that is a 3R CV joint but strength wise they are similar.
 
obijuank5 said:
Details on the rig and suspension and what trans and tcase will help guide you for the rear driveshaft.

I prefer the Ford superduty front driveshaft as a rear. You will need a fixed yoke transfer case and a flange to mate it to.

It is 1350 and pretty tough overall.
Click to expand...

Its an 80s something etc cab s10 with a 5ft tube bed on a tube frame I originally built for my trooper with a shortened dana 44 front running modified bronco radius arms, small block, fullsize nv3500, dodge fixed yoke 241. The front vs back driveshaft length isnt super different, in fact just from eyeballing it because I havent measure the lengths are pretty ideal. Ill see if I can find a superduty front shaft for the rear. Does that bolt right up to a chevy 241/208 front flange? If I used the long IFS flange it would be perfect to put the start of my rear driveshaft right past a welded crossmember I have in the chassis.

Bent77 said:
@Stomis i ran a one piece 2 joint in my K10 for awhile. Only issue was rock humpage

Once I went Doubler I went with a CV rear (56" length). Not sure a CV was necessary, but I had to buy a driveshaft, so MAW
Click to expand...

In the front? Maybe I should actually measure my lengths and height differences and do some angle math.

AV8TER said:
If you want a 1310 cv you can find them on older (70s) 1/2 ton Chevy front drive shafts.. Maybe on 3/4s also. The way to tell 1310 from 3R joints is where the clips are. The 1310 has the clips outside the caps and 3Rs are on the inside. For a rear I would just use a front out of a Super Duty. I find them in local wrecking yards for under $100 and for a rear in a K5 they just need shortened. And balanced for road use. On the front I wouldn't worry too much about a 1310 shaft. I have blown up four 1/2 ton front axles and now beat the heck out of a D60 with a big block and still have the stock 1984 front shaft! Granted that is a 3R CV joint but strength wise they are similar.
Click to expand...

Cool, good info thanks man.
 
The stock front flange is not the same.
For my k5, th400 np205 and 14 bolt ff in stock location, it bolted in.

Individual results may vary. I believe my front shaft was from a gasser manual trans truck.
 
Stomis said:
Its an 80s something etc cab s10 with a 5ft tube bed on a tube frame I originally built for my trooper with a shortened dana 44 front running modified bronco radius arms, small block, fullsize nv3500, dodge fixed yoke 241. The front vs back driveshaft length isnt super different, in fact just from eyeballing it because I havent measure the lengths are pretty ideal. Ill see if I can find a superduty front shaft for the rear. Does that bolt right up to a chevy 241/208 front flange? If I used the long IFS flange it would be perfect to put the start of my rear driveshaft right past a welded crossmember I have in the chassis.



In the front? Maybe I should actually measure my lengths and height differences and do some angle math.



Cool, good info thanks man.
Click to expand...
That's was the rear. Obviously the difference in wheel base may change how that would work for the S10.
I've used 2 joint front 1310s in a couple of trucks so far
 
obijuank5 said:
The stock front flange is not the same.
For my k5, th400 np205 and 14 bolt ff in stock location, it bolted in.

Individual results may vary. I believe my front shaft was from a gasser manual trans truck.
Click to expand...

So is there a part number for a flange for a 241 to use the ford driveshaft or does the stock ford flange work?
 
I am unsure of the compatibility of the Ford front flange on a gm. But I'm going to pull one off this week at work. We have a couple cores.
 
obijuank5 said:
I am unsure of the compatibility of the Ford front flange on a gm. But I'm going to pull one off this week at work. We have a couple cores.
Click to expand...

Ok so some more research. GM flange wont work w/o machine work. The super duty has a 2in pilot and the GM has a 3.1x something pilot. It would be a simple turn in the lathe but Im fairly sure the GM flange pilot isnt solid so it would have to be cut off an over sized blank welded on and then machined true to size for the ford flange. Or you can get a flange from dennys for like $80.

Am I wrong for not running a CV up front?
 
The ONLY reason to run a CV on any driveshaft is to tame driveline vibration at higher speeds.

Single cardan (one joint at each end) shafts can often take more angle than a CV, but there are always construction details that factor in to that.
 
I run a Ford 205 with it's 32 spline front output and flange. The F350 CV flange would bolt up to the t case but the pilot was way off. I just shaved the flange down and use the bolts to center it.

The Ford CV mounting flange is bigger than the GM one too. So it won't bolt on regardless of the pilot.
 
Stomis said:
Ok so some more research. GM flange wont work w/o machine work. The super duty has a 2in pilot and the GM has a 3.1x something pilot. It would be a simple turn in the lathe but Im fairly sure the GM flange pilot isnt solid so it would have to be cut off an over sized blank welded on and then machined true to size for the ford flange. Or you can get a flange from dennys for like $80.

Am I wrong for not running a CV up front?
Click to expand...

There are a couple fixes for the flange pilot problem. Like you said you can get a centering flange in Chevy mount for the 1350 joint. Or you can turn the 3.125 centering part clear off and use the bolts for centering like so many people do. Or I think (not sure) that you can turn the Ford centering flange from 2 inch out to 3.125 inch. If you use the ford yoke and chevy flange you will have to remove the threads from one or the other as they are both threaded. Id drill the chevy flange and use the ford bolts myself. They both use a 4.250 bolt circle.
 
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