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HELP Identifying Electrical Connections

Fancy

Fancy

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I need HELP Identifying Electrical Connections in my 90 k5 blazer. The previous owner had an aftermarket alarm kit installed and there was a bunch of really bad splices into the stock wiring harness instead of just making connections at already existing nodes. I have already cleaned a bunch of it up but need help identifying and sourcing a few things.

First thing is the connectors for the top ports. I found them here at the link below but they are approx. $30 shipped to my house which i think is insane.

http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/connector-terminal-kit-ato-fuse-box

If anyone has a better source or even more information about them that would be great. Like what those ports are called? What the connectors are called specifically?

Second is where would i find the clip that the purple wires connect to in picture #1? It is the part of the fuse panel that makes up the connections that run through the fire wall. Picture #2 is a view from the engine compartment side.

Third is i need to replace the contact circled in yellow where the orange wires are connected. Anyone have any idea how to go about this. I guess ultimately i am really just trying to replace the wire running to the contact but not sure the easiest way.

Last of all do you have any recommendation for an easy point with in the engine bay to connect to that only have power when the engine is running.

Thanks Guys for the help i have tried searching for hours and its only made me dissy.

Picture#1.JPG

Picture#2.JPG

Picture#3.JPG
 
First question: Any GM vehicle made from about 1981-1991 (at least) is almost certain to have the connectors you need. Cut them out, splice to them (properly) and done. You can probably find the metal terminals, and I like actually re-crimping the terminals when possible, but it's not necessary. Note that those connectors are keyed, and you need to understand which position/key you need to power whatever you need to power, with the ignition switch in whatever position. Normally you will want either battery 12V, or ignition switched 12V, but IIRC there are also a couple of others that are hot in only start, etc.

I haven't actually dealt with the terminal pieces you need outside of that. Most everything is sold by Delphi now, and mouser.com is a very good source for terminals, connectors, etc. Just received my latest order from them as a matter of fact.

It's going to take some research and time on your part, but eventually you will most likely find what you need, unless someone here already has and can post up with it.

Don't think these are spaced properly, but fairly similar to the fuse panel portions IIRC http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKnj6O1u%2b8UwKYR6AlFioHCQ=
 
Thanks guys for the info. I will continue searching and see what i can come up with. There is no real push on this project just something I've been meaning to do for piece of mind.
 
the metal ones i know napa has, might have some left from when i rewired my old hot rod
ill look tomorrow
 
Cool, this is the direction that I'm about to take my thread on my 78 K-5 projects. If the terminal you are trying to connect to in pic 3 is a flat blade style, I believe the connector you need is called a quick connect. I found them for cheap at O'Rielly in the universal electrical section. They also sell sections of wire in all kinds of different colors and gauges to match your stock configuration. When buying quick connect adapters make sure you get both the right size (1/4", 3/8", 1/2", etc.), and the right gauge (24ga, 22ga, 20ga, etc.). The connector's gauge in particular is easy to overlook since they look the same at a glance. If you bring a section of the wire that you're working with along it'll ensure you buy the right stuff the 1st time.
 
Looks like they are unisulated open barrel F terminals. Widely used on Gm. They also require a special crimper to crimp them properly.
Are they female spade terminals?
They probably snap in place with a little tang on the terminal to the housing.
See if you can easily pull one out and look at it, but dont force it out.
Pull that one out that has nothing attached to it thats not used.
 
Just wanted to say thanks for the input so far guys!

Been a bit thrown in another direction with more pressing issues but here is where i stand on this now.

Napa here locally has been absolutely no help :doah: but i have another auto part store that i frequent and they have a huge selection. I picked up matching orange pink and purple wires as those will be the runs i am replacing due to poor splices. Luckily all three only run to the steering column so it should be easy once i get the connectors. The connector in the first 2 photos as well as the connectors at the column i do belive is the said "uninsulated open barrel F terminals" and are indeed held in place by a little tang. I will be removing one and sizing later for that which takes care of the purple wire.

The pink wire has a factory node just outside the fuse block so i will simply be redoing that node and shrink warping that to take care of the pink and again F terminal at column.

Still unclear what the exact specs are for the 3rd picture but i have a good direction thanks to dyeager535. It is a strip that is three terminals in length and holds the AUX HTR A/C, the HTR A/C, and the PWR WDO fuses on the other side.

As for the plug in terminals with the fancy plastic housing as seen in the link i think and pictured below. I think the are simple spade connectors with a fancy plastic housing and i will most likely be pocketing some on my next pick and pull trip and using the housing and getting new spades.

I will post of more finding and specs as i progress for future references but thanks again so far for the input.

photo-59.JPG
 
You are probably right on those spades, they are just a lot narrower than the common 1/4"(?) spades. If you figure out part numbers/sources, please follow up with part numbers. I don't like using the auxiliary terminals as expansion slots (they aren't fused, they are gang circuit protected at 30A IIRC) but they are a good place to use as factory did, and also to trigger relays/add-on fuse panel. When re-doing wiring, I prefer to replace the terminal so that I can crimp the wire vs. splice and heat shrink tube the joint.

Wonder if these are close to what those auxiliary taps take: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...129349-L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvANcmvDb1WMZNBWheLFyV6
 
Yep, those are the quick connects I mentioned. Make sure to get the correct gauge for the wire you're using in addition to the proper terminal/blade width.
 
So i went to the yard and pulled some terminals and disassembled them. One is pictured below. Each color is keyd differently buy the plastic housing but the metal clips are all the same and all held in by a little tang. They measure approximately 5.32 mm wide and 22.28 mm long. I have not identified them with a part number yet but will try to soon just been swamped.

photo-60.JPG
 
Different design, but if width is the same I would think it could be made to work.

It may be that the specific pieces aren't made anymore.
 
Agreed, problem is he only needs a few and most places have minimum orders, plus he needs the crimpers,

Prolly better off getting what he needs at a j yard and solder them in.
 
Mouser is pretty darn good on shipping/no minimum. If you can find a Delphi part number, they almost certainly have it and IMO don't gouge on shipping or price.

Honestly, with some of the orders I've made, I'm not sure how they are even making money! The automotive stuff (connectors, terminals) really works good for any 12V projects such as solar, so at least in my case, it's really easy to generate enough use to end up with $100+ orders. Once you get into it, soldering is a lot more of a hassle than simply buying the correct terminals and doing up your own.

For ones and twos obviously soldering isn't that painful, but if you've already got the components and crimper ($19 crimper will do pretty much every GM terminal used from at least the 90's back) it is very quick and easy. In this case where we can't easily find the terminals, soldering may be the only choice.
 
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