There was a guy in Rehobeth MA selling a CUCV 6.2 engine with the military "crate" they come with,for 250 bucks a week or two ago on the Boston CL site...said it ran but might need work...not sure if the ad is still up..
CK5
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Help me build an engine
- Thread starter Richcz28
- Start date
Good price for the turbo setup. For the time being I would get/make the needed little pieces and put the turbo on your current engine. If you keep boost down around 8 pounds. That will make a notable difference but not over stress the engine.
Heads are pretty much the same between turbo and na engines. The ones that are different are ones used in turboed vans/hummers. The ones for 82-83 engines have use a different injector thread, a course thread. All others use the same thread pitch. 82 heads also have slightly bigger valves but that makes them more prone to cracking.
The thing to check for actually is what type of precups the heads have. A C-code na engine will have the smallest ones, good for fuel mileage not great for lots of power. Turbo 6.5s have diamond precups, decent mileage best factory version for power. There are a few people that actually machine them for best power potential. The only way to check which ones you have to pull the head, the marks are on the face that looks at the piston. The engine in your truck will most likely have the second smallest ones.
While an International block is the best, it'll take time to find. I wouldn't pass up using a good seasoned block. Ones that are crack free will usually stay that way.
Reman engines/blocks get expensive to buy from vendors. I have a spare 6.2 that I thought I was going to need for my truck. I had it bored .020 over, cleaned, and magnufluxed and it cost me $450 for just that. It still needs new pistons, bearing, gaskets, ..... etc. Its actually an CUCV engine, got it for $100.
I was hoping to save it for another project, but I might have to sell it to fund some other stuff.
Heads are pretty much the same between turbo and na engines. The ones that are different are ones used in turboed vans/hummers. The ones for 82-83 engines have use a different injector thread, a course thread. All others use the same thread pitch. 82 heads also have slightly bigger valves but that makes them more prone to cracking.
The thing to check for actually is what type of precups the heads have. A C-code na engine will have the smallest ones, good for fuel mileage not great for lots of power. Turbo 6.5s have diamond precups, decent mileage best factory version for power. There are a few people that actually machine them for best power potential. The only way to check which ones you have to pull the head, the marks are on the face that looks at the piston. The engine in your truck will most likely have the second smallest ones.
While an International block is the best, it'll take time to find. I wouldn't pass up using a good seasoned block. Ones that are crack free will usually stay that way.
Reman engines/blocks get expensive to buy from vendors. I have a spare 6.2 that I thought I was going to need for my truck. I had it bored .020 over, cleaned, and magnufluxed and it cost me $450 for just that. It still needs new pistons, bearing, gaskets, ..... etc. Its actually an CUCV engine, got it for $100.
I was hoping to save it for another project, but I might have to sell it to fund some other stuff.
Splitting hairs over precups is like arguing over blondes versus brunettes. It's an indirect injection engine.
If the engine as a whole is good and the price is right, go ahead and buy it. If it's junk or questionable, then pass.
The one and only situation you need question precup versions is a ground-up custom fresh engine build.
If the engine as a whole is good and the price is right, go ahead and buy it. If it's junk or questionable, then pass.
The one and only situation you need question precup versions is a ground-up custom fresh engine build.
True, which precups are in the engine more of a "builder" item to worry about. If boost is kept low and a GM turbo used, smoke won't be an issue with any precup. However if you can find a set of 6.5 heads with turbo precup that would be best. The reduction in smoke with more boost is worth it. They're just a nice part to find if you can.
I'm wondering if I would be more satisfied with an appropriately boosted small precup setup the had power gains over my current engine with the best fuel economy?
I am trying to read up on them, because I actually had never heard of one before a couple posts ago.
It looks like you can install different pre cups in the different heads?
I also have read people are getting the heads machined for valve seats to reduce oil consumption.
I am trying to read up on them, because I actually had never heard of one before a couple posts ago.
It looks like you can install different pre cups in the different heads?
I also have read people are getting the heads machined for valve seats to reduce oil consumption.
Don't get too caught up in what precups you need/want. I'm letting you know all the different things you can do to/with these engines.
Precups deteremine two things really, smoke and peak power. Any will work with a stock turbo and low boost. With higher boost just depends how much smoke you're willing to deal with.
Yes you can change them, but I'd just find a good set of heads from a turbo 6.5 engine. It'll have the ones you want.
Precups deteremine two things really, smoke and peak power. Any will work with a stock turbo and low boost. With higher boost just depends how much smoke you're willing to deal with.
Yes you can change them, but I'd just find a good set of heads from a turbo 6.5 engine. It'll have the ones you want.
herkdriver007
1/2 ton status
Another benefit of the 6.5 head is the injector angle...with 6.2 heads you will need to space out the exhaust mani to keep it from touching the injectors. Usually double stacked gaskets and a touch if grinding on the manifold will get you the clearance you need. Some guys have made a 1/4" spacer as well.
If you put on the 6.5 heads you'll also have to bend the injector lines a tad because of that angle difference.
If you put on the 6.5 heads you'll also have to bend the injector lines a tad because of that angle difference.
http://southcoast.craigslist.org/pts/4257495420.html
This is the rehobeth engine.
The ad states it overheated.
Another inexpensive option.
http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4272014495.html
And a third
http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4286701860.html
This is the rehobeth engine.
The ad states it overheated.
Another inexpensive option.
http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4272014495.html
And a third
http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4286701860.html
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Hmm..they didn't have that stated in the ad when I first saw it about a month ago...still,it may not have been ruined or cracked,it "might" still be rebuildable...I suppose that storage crate & mount is worth something too though...
I have a 1987 6.2 with a broken crank that came out of a friends C-30 ramp truck ,that ran pisser before the crank snapped..--it sat outside at his shop for a year--and its been sitting on an engine stand in my yard covered up with a garbage bag since I got it about 3 years ago..
Only part I took off was the oil pan--
I was going to put it on my pickup's engine--never did it yet..the next thing I'll need off it is the exhaust manifolds,ones on my truck look like they sat on the ocean floor since the Titanic sunk..also figured having a "spare" engine for the injector pump and lines was worth keeping it too..it would probably run again with a used crank,but I dont know if the bores rusted up or not by now..it was upside down a long time with the pan on...
I'm thinking I may never use the parts or fix the engine in my pickup..beginning to wish it had a gas engine instead now,with the fuel prices so high..truck itself is probably not worth fixing or swapping another engine into it soon too..with my home situation in limbo I may end up just having to sell off a lot of stuff...
I have a 1987 6.2 with a broken crank that came out of a friends C-30 ramp truck ,that ran pisser before the crank snapped..--it sat outside at his shop for a year--and its been sitting on an engine stand in my yard covered up with a garbage bag since I got it about 3 years ago..
Only part I took off was the oil pan--
I was going to put it on my pickup's engine--never did it yet..the next thing I'll need off it is the exhaust manifolds,ones on my truck look like they sat on the ocean floor since the Titanic sunk..also figured having a "spare" engine for the injector pump and lines was worth keeping it too..it would probably run again with a used crank,but I dont know if the bores rusted up or not by now..it was upside down a long time with the pan on...
I'm thinking I may never use the parts or fix the engine in my pickup..beginning to wish it had a gas engine instead now,with the fuel prices so high..truck itself is probably not worth fixing or swapping another engine into it soon too..with my home situation in limbo I may end up just having to sell off a lot of stuff...
Hmm..they didn't have that stated in the ad when I first saw it about a month ago...still,it may not have been ruined or cracked,it "might" still be rebuildable...I suppose that storage crate & mount is worth something too though...
I have a 1987 6.2 with a broken crank that came out of a friends C-30 ramp truck ,that ran pisser before the crank snapped..--it sat outside at his shop for a year--and its been sitting on an engine stand in my yard covered up with a garbage bag since I got it about 3 years ago..
Only part I took off was the oil pan--
I was going to put it on my pickup's engine--never did it yet..the next thing I'll need off it is the exhaust manifolds,ones on my truck look like they sat on the ocean floor since the Titanic sunk..also figured having a "spare" engine for the injector pump and lines was worth keeping it too..it would probably run again with a used crank,but I dont know if the bores rusted up or not by now..it was upside down a long time with the pan on...
I'm thinking I may never use the parts or fix the engine in my pickup..beginning to wish it had a gas engine instead now,with the fuel prices so high..truck itself is probably not worth fixing or swapping another engine into it soon too..with my home situation in limbo I may end up just having to sell off a lot of stuff...
I think the storage crate is awesome. I'd just need to find a place for it in my garage. I would hate to spend $250 for scrap metal. I remember this engine being listed for quite a bit more awhile back. I know he has two up. Then it came back up cheaper. I wonder if he tried to sell it once already and re-priced to try to get rid of it. By the time I got it magna fluxed, if something was wrong I'd be upset.
'scribed! sweet deal on the turbo rig...it's on my list too...
sadly, my wish list looks like it's going to be my bucket list
sadly, my wish list looks like it's going to be my bucket list
Any of those three don't seem like too bad of canidates for rebuilds. I'm sure you could get any of them a little cheaper if showed up with cash. Biggest thing is ( and this goes for any engine/part) is if they'll let you at least pull the oil pan to check for cracks in the mainwebs. If they won't let you check, just walk away. More then enough engines out there to choose from.
Its tough getting some sellers to let you do things like that,especially craigslisters..--most say "its scrap priced,so take it or leave it"...you hate to pass up what is likely a decent deal,but dont want to get boned either..your often stuck taking their word that something is good,if you want the item..
I went with a friend who wanted to buy a 454 he saw on CL--arranged to meet the guy in a Walmart parking lot..he wanted 300 bucks cash for the engine--said it was "partly rebuilt" and he was going to use it in a chevelle,but he gave up on the car and sold it with no engine..
When we got there,I saw the engine had no intake or exhaust manifolds,which my friend would need to put it in his car..strike one!..
The engine looked nice--painted chevy orange with red valve covers..turned over by hand freely--I looked at him with skeptical eyes,as if to say "fresh paint--means hidden trouble!)......but my friend offered him 200,and the guy acted insulted.started saying stuff like "I told you AS-IS,and I know its a good block!...I'm not a liar!....but after a long silence,he agreed ,said he needed the money bad,and reluctantly took the 200 for it....we got the engine in my truck by backing up to his truck,and sliding it across the tailgates with some plywood..
When my friend got the engine back to his shop,he started taking it apart--he was only expecting a rebuildable core,not a "drop in" running engine..good thing!..
When he took off the timing cover--there was no timing chain,gears,or cam in it!..and when we got the heads off,four pistons on the right side were facing the wrong way..two rod caps were finger tight--it was evident someone had it all apart ,and just threw it together to sell it "whole".....but at least it wasn't cracked,sleeved,and the heads were some better than smog ones with larger valves ,and the crank was OK,so it wasn't a totally "bad" deal..
I hate buying anything like engines or transmissions if I cant test drive them first..just hearing one run "good" for 5 minutes doesn't mean it'll sound good after a half hour drive..same with a tranny..everyone says "It worked fine before I pulled it out"...yeah,maybe so,but it SAT since 1989,and now has water in with the ATF...its always such a gamble..
I went with a friend who wanted to buy a 454 he saw on CL--arranged to meet the guy in a Walmart parking lot..he wanted 300 bucks cash for the engine--said it was "partly rebuilt" and he was going to use it in a chevelle,but he gave up on the car and sold it with no engine..
When we got there,I saw the engine had no intake or exhaust manifolds,which my friend would need to put it in his car..strike one!..
The engine looked nice--painted chevy orange with red valve covers..turned over by hand freely--I looked at him with skeptical eyes,as if to say "fresh paint--means hidden trouble!)......but my friend offered him 200,and the guy acted insulted.started saying stuff like "I told you AS-IS,and I know its a good block!...I'm not a liar!....but after a long silence,he agreed ,said he needed the money bad,and reluctantly took the 200 for it....we got the engine in my truck by backing up to his truck,and sliding it across the tailgates with some plywood..
When my friend got the engine back to his shop,he started taking it apart--he was only expecting a rebuildable core,not a "drop in" running engine..good thing!..
When he took off the timing cover--there was no timing chain,gears,or cam in it!..and when we got the heads off,four pistons on the right side were facing the wrong way..two rod caps were finger tight--it was evident someone had it all apart ,and just threw it together to sell it "whole".....but at least it wasn't cracked,sleeved,and the heads were some better than smog ones with larger valves ,and the crank was OK,so it wasn't a totally "bad" deal..
I hate buying anything like engines or transmissions if I cant test drive them first..just hearing one run "good" for 5 minutes doesn't mean it'll sound good after a half hour drive..same with a tranny..everyone says "It worked fine before I pulled it out"...yeah,maybe so,but it SAT since 1989,and now has water in with the ATF...its always such a gamble..
Bump 
Ok, I have 2 6.2s in my garage, and a 6.2 turbo setup.
Lets pretend I know nothing about diesels or 6.2s or building an engine. (actually not pretending)
I want to put some power in the fire truck with an nv4500. (Although I'm waiting to hear on Kevin's success with running an sm465 + gear venders) Where do I start? My completely unreasonable goal is to be able to have an occasional tow rig.
One of the 6.2s is said to smoke a bit. I think that will be the best candidate to start a teardown.
I'll save the other engine, and the engine in fire truck, as good runner replacements for cherry brazer or other who knows when or what projects.
Ok, I have 2 6.2s in my garage, and a 6.2 turbo setup.
Lets pretend I know nothing about diesels or 6.2s or building an engine. (actually not pretending)
I want to put some power in the fire truck with an nv4500. (Although I'm waiting to hear on Kevin's success with running an sm465 + gear venders) Where do I start? My completely unreasonable goal is to be able to have an occasional tow rig.
One of the 6.2s is said to smoke a bit. I think that will be the best candidate to start a teardown.
I'll save the other engine, and the engine in fire truck, as good runner replacements for cherry brazer or other who knows when or what projects.
So going complete rebuild?
If so tear one down check for cracks if no cracks go with that one if there are cracks then tear the other down
If so tear one down check for cracks if no cracks go with that one if there are cracks then tear the other down
Yea, I'm pretty sure my plan is complete rebuild. That was my plan. Should I be having the block magnafluxed?
I'm having trouble finding a decent reliable formula like one would for a small block.
I'm having trouble finding a decent reliable formula like one would for a small block.
http://www.maxxtorque.com/2008/10/the-best-ever-65-chevy-diesel-rebuild.html?m=1
That's a pretty good article. Not sure how much all the coatings cost. Not sure if they are worth it. I do think the heads would probably be worth it. They used a 97 or newer 6.5 casting.
What you plan for boost is what gonna decide your compression ratio. It's seems under 9 psi is pretty safe for the very high compression. 6.2s.
Turbo boost will likely be more beneficial than compression. I would be looking at different turbos other than the banks or gm stock turbos.
But then again it depends on how much cash you wanna spend.
I would go through the balancing the reciprocating mass as much as possible. This on a 6.2/6.5 would include your flywheel they are externally balanced.
If I was rebuilding it I would probably splurge on the fluid damper harmonic balancer.
I would do a serpentine setup for the cooling capability.
I would love to be able to do an all out build on any of my motors. But expense adds up fast
Looking forward to your build though. For some odd reason I like these old gm diesels
That's a pretty good article. Not sure how much all the coatings cost. Not sure if they are worth it. I do think the heads would probably be worth it. They used a 97 or newer 6.5 casting.
What you plan for boost is what gonna decide your compression ratio. It's seems under 9 psi is pretty safe for the very high compression. 6.2s.
Turbo boost will likely be more beneficial than compression. I would be looking at different turbos other than the banks or gm stock turbos.
But then again it depends on how much cash you wanna spend.
I would go through the balancing the reciprocating mass as much as possible. This on a 6.2/6.5 would include your flywheel they are externally balanced.
If I was rebuilding it I would probably splurge on the fluid damper harmonic balancer.
I would do a serpentine setup for the cooling capability.
I would love to be able to do an all out build on any of my motors. But expense adds up fast
Looking forward to your build though. For some odd reason I like these old gm diesels
Yes magnaflux. It can determine small cracks that can become bigger cracks.
http://www.65engineparts.com/inc/sdetail/960
Here's another option. No more cracking issues ever. Block is beefed up. Heads are beefed up.
Spendy yes but this one is gonna last a long long time. Even with more boost
They also sell the p400 version which has yet more beefing of the mains and caps and a full length girdle. Plus a forged crank.
I have seen rear wheel dyno numbers of 240 hp and 475 lbs ft of torque with mostly stock stuff. It seems that the companies that sell this say boost limit is 28 psi.
I would think with upgraded compononts you would be upwards of 300 hp and 550 lbs ft of torque.
But that's a very expensive motor
Here's another option. No more cracking issues ever. Block is beefed up. Heads are beefed up.
Spendy yes but this one is gonna last a long long time. Even with more boost
They also sell the p400 version which has yet more beefing of the mains and caps and a full length girdle. Plus a forged crank.
I have seen rear wheel dyno numbers of 240 hp and 475 lbs ft of torque with mostly stock stuff. It seems that the companies that sell this say boost limit is 28 psi.
I would think with upgraded compononts you would be upwards of 300 hp and 550 lbs ft of torque.
But that's a very expensive motor
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