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help me build some bad mofo links

supersize75k5

supersize75k5

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I am at the point of ordering, buting or building my rear links for the buggy


drivetrain is chevy big block with an ord doubler..

I dont want to bend them, break them or think about them, I want to spend between 500-800 for the links

its a 3 link pan hard design



whatcha got?
 
no bites?


well current thought it to have shannon cambel's crew build 2 inch aluminum rod with johny joints.

thoughts?


i have never really put alot of thought on the johny joints..
 
my buddies jeep just got done the other day i will take some pics of it tomm...its on 2.5 tons with coilovers,triangulated 4 link,and michlein 52s...ill get some pics tomm...
 
When I link mine im going 2"x.500" lowers with 1 1/4" chromo heims. Uppers will either be 1 3/4"x.25" DOM or 1 3/4" 7075 aluminum, either way the uppers will be 7/8" heims.

The thing about having aluminum lowers is they are much more likely to snap from hitting rocks and such. If you have a lower snap it will take everything out with it. Not to mention you cant weld the link back together on the trail or something like that.

I have seen 1.5" 7075 snap on a pretty light weight buggy so im just not a big fan of it on the lowers. The uppers I wouldnt worry about at all.
 
I went with 2.5" x .375 wall for the lowers and 2" x .250 wall for the uppers.
Evolution 1 3/4" heims all around. :D I aint breaking or bending a damn thing!
Each lower link can take twice the weight of the vehicle on it before it bends. :thumb:
 
I dont know much aboot linked systems but I would not go smaller than a1 1/4" Evolution Heim.:D Putting that much into a system no reason not to go with the best.

Ira
 
clowns on pirate have bent pretty much every kind of normal lower link... if I was going to link my rig, I'd make them out of 2" x 0.500" material (or so) and then truss them also with some lighter tube on top.... and then plate the sides to fill in the gaps. Add speed-holes and roll wit it.

j
 
Play with the "Material Selection" tab in ExcelCAD

Knowing the length of the link you want, change the material, Wall thickness and diameter of the tube....observe what happens to the FS (Factor of Safety).

A larger OD on the tube will make a big difference. 2" is probably the minimum you should use for lower links (2.5" is better) and steel will be a better choice than aluminum. If you MUST save weight, use aluminum on the uppers where they won't see bending loads.

Also, ExcelCAD will give you the exact weights for each type of link you design, so you'll understand the weight penalties as you make the links thicker and with larger ODs. :deal:
 


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2" .250 wall square. Links are even with the frame. Bushing at the frame and a JJ at the axle. Cheap, strong, effective. It is something that you can do tomorrow. Not a would do in a perfect world.
 
az-k5 said:


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2" .250 wall square. Links are even with the frame. Bushing at the frame and a JJ at the axle. Cheap, strong, effective. It is something that you can do tomorrow. Not a would do in a perfect world.
Click to expand...

matt I dont have his number, but pass mine along to him if you se him, is he a member here?
 
The current lower setup that seems to be holding up and staying straight for myself, Fox, and Stephen in Wally.
Is a 2" .250 wall lower using something like a 1 1/4" X 1" hiem. I can't remember the heim size off the top of my head.

I have bent 1.5" X.375" wall and 1.75" X.375" and .5" lowers on my buggy. The 1.5" lowers were very easy to bend, the 1.75 were tough to bend but they did.
I have bashed on the 2" link pretty hard and have yet to bend them.
The larger the tube the stronger you get and then wall thickness is only to keep the link from denting.
Think pop cans here. Large diameter thin wall. I can stand on a pop can but if the wall has a flaw it will crush.
The larger the Dia. the easier the wall will dent and weaken the tube.
If you dent .250 wall you are hitting things hard.

The typical link bend that I have seen using larger Dia. DOM is a large radius bend/arch. I ran my rear lowers with the large arch for two seasons and had no problems with them.

I wouldn't want anything much stiffer than the 2"X .250" wall. If yo do hit them hard enough they might transfer to much shock to the mounts and chassis. This shock could mess up things not to mention knock your dentures out.
 
so why would shannons crew think the 2 inch aluminum is enough beef? no one thinks they will hold?
 
supersize75k5 said:
so why would shannons crew think the 2 inch aluminum is enough beef? no one thinks they will hold?
Click to expand...

I think 2" al. will hold. That's what Imma doin'...

Although I will admit that the aluminum route is not the most popular one....

Marv
 
to be honest im looking for the "order them done and bolt them on route"..


time is more important at theis point.

i might try the aluminum and just carry a spare
 
i used 2" .375 wall for my cherokee fronts. i'd run that as a minimum on a fullsize. 2.5" would be ideal for me if I link a fullsize.
and 1" or 1-1/4" for the heims.

how are you moutning the 3rd link?
 
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