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Help me figure out where to land these suckers...

Avery4jc

Avery4jc

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I'm going to try to give the k10 some lovin' before our trip to the dunes at the end of july and high up on my list is to address my front suspension. My leaves are shot so I got a new set of 4" lift springs from a buddy and I need to get some decent bump stops in.
Currently I have the factory bumps spaced down just so I didn't ruin my shocks but after just a couple trips I've trashed them (I guess no surprise there :doah:) so I've been eyeballing the Daystar bumps...
130213-lg.jpg


So my only "problem" is figuring out how I want to land them. I land my bumps on top of my spring plates right now but the u-bolts chew them up so I'm looking for ideas on some type of large flat landing plate that they could hit but it's going to have to go over the spring plates unless I move the bumps inboard or under the frame...

So what do you guys think? Brainstorm with me. :confused:
 
Here's a picture I had on my computer of it. Only difference is I have the factory bumps spaced down...

100_6807.jpg
 
A plate over the top spring plate. Tightened down on the existing nuts. Gussets to strengthen as they go out from under the frame. Mount the stops on the outside of the frame. Seen it done.
 
Tonight I was thinking about welding some tabs on both sides of the springs and bolting a plate across them so it went over the top of the spring plate. I originally thought of doing what you said but what about making it flush? I don't want the nuts to tear up the bump stop.
My current bumps line up with the middle of the spring plate but they're all chewed up on the sides from hitting the u-bolts so I know the axle moves quite a bit as it cycles.
 
First off cut your u bolts down some make em long enough to get through and so the nut is fully on em but no longer, build you landing pad so it covers the whole area with cut outs to get the nuts and a socket onto the u bolts. Just a simple rectangle with some circle cutouts in all four corners, attach with some plates to the original spring plate.

I have never welded to em but I assume they are cast steel and not cast iron. They should be weldable. I usually make my own u bolt plates out of steel and then do just what I told you to do. Its just a plate on a plate really.
 
On a side note any of you guys have experience with these Daystar bumps? I kind of like the idea of something somewhat tunable but I'm not sure if they're worth the price. I was looking at some FOA hydro bumps last night that were $150 a piece and they came with the mounting cans. These Daystars are $109 a piece and they don't come with cans (about $20 extra) so I'm now wondering if I'd be better off going with the FOA's.
Maybe overkill for a leaf sprung rig but it'll give me something to grow into. :)
 
Go with the FOA's. The rubber bumps do not last as long and the shaft is not constantly lubed.

Quality bumps on any suspension is a great upgrade. I have done a couple on leaf trucks. The owners loved them. No more hard hits. Fewer parts breaking because you do not have the hard impact on parts.

Even added a set of 2" to a stock truck. Dude won them. Ride was much better in the desert and he could go through stuff he had to crawl before.
 
My FOA bumps have worked great so far, love them, the FOA shocks on the other hand have leaked until I tore them apart and cleaned them out and deburred them, now they work great too. Just weld the can a little at a time and let it cool between welds. I learned on the front that if you weld it all at once you play h3ll getting the bump back in the can because the can shrinks.

Also, here is how mine look....

Front mounting....

ExmemberR.jpg


front%20r.jpg


rear mounts and spring plates..

frame%20notch%20s.jpg


bump%20mount%20s.jpg



You can see more mounting/plate pics in my build but my front is not leaf so your spring splates will have to be changed a little to work. They don't move that much front to back, not sure how much they move under articulation yet with the leaves in the rear, but expect them to move more side to side. You can get an idea of how much they will move front to back by using a string to measure your springs length along the arch between the eyes, and then measure it the distance straight between the eyes. The center should move back half the difference under compression.
 
just might be a new thread out there that could help your moral quandry

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286321


i've got no personal hands on with the pro fender,
but i did ahve a chance to fondle the daystars for a bit at the 4wp show this year. def a neat concept, for the money i dont think its worth it tho. at that point just get some stock bumps from the JY and make it work. for a little bit more i'd go with the nicer set. it was cool that you could trade the cells to adjust the stiffness on the daystars tho.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
just might be a new thread out there that could help your moral quandry

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286321


i've got no personal hands on with the pro fender,
but i did ahve a chance to fondle the daystars for a bit at the 4wp show this year. def a neat concept, for the money i dont think its worth it tho. at that point just get some stock bumps from the JY and make it work. for a little bit more i'd go with the nicer set. it was cool that you could trade the cells to adjust the stiffness on the daystars tho.
Click to expand...


I've been checking those out since you posted earlier and they seem like another good option. The side by side comparison here is helpful...

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112818&highlight=profender


Something else I was thinking about today is what setup do you guys use to charge your bumps/shocks/etc.?
I can get the bottle locally for cheap but what about the gauges/adapter to charge through the valve?
 
Avery4jc said:
Something else I was thinking about today is what setup do you guys use to charge your bumps/shocks/etc.?
I can get the bottle locally for cheap but what about the gauges/adapter to charge through the valve?
Click to expand...

I bought it all at the local grainger(got the bottle at the local weld shop). Smith regulator, 5 ft braided line, a couple adaptors, a needle valve, etc.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SMITH-EQUIPMENT-Medium-Duty-Regulator-5EFX1?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WEKSLER-Needle-Valve-5WL12

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...uery=1pcn2&op=search&Ntt=1pcn2&N=0&sst=subset

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...uery=6w434&op=search&Ntt=6w434&N=0&sst=subset (x2)

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...uery=1dga5&op=search&Ntt=1dga5&N=0&sst=subset

The only thing I didn't get their is the coupler, I bought that at poly performance.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Suspension-Nitrogen-Fill-Adapter-p-286.html

They sell the little nozzle seperate, but it's so close to that price it was worth it for the fittings and gauge. I did replace the shrader valve and reassemble it with a needle valve hooked directly to the regulator/bottle for better control, but sure if it was worth it.

It ended up being cheaper than the syndergy kit, and mostly USA made parts instead of crap.
 
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i was interested in those bumps, till i heard the foam is only good for some 5000 hits till it needs to be replaced...

That seems like just a few trips.
 
NorCal_Chris said:
i was interested in those bumps, till i heard the foam is only good for some 5000 hits till it needs to be replaced...

That seems like just a few trips.
Click to expand...


Yeah I read that on Pirate while doing some research on them...
 
Durr just re read thread and saw them posted on last page...


I will hopefully be picking up a pair in the near future. I need some bumps asap in the front, the rears not an issue right now but front needs to be adressed/
 
Smokinthehippies said:
They're Aldo a vendor here now. Test em an do a write up for us.
Click to expand...


That's a good possibility... I'm going to move my good bumps from the back of the truck to the front for the trip in a couple weeks but when I get back I'll order some hydro bumps and move my regular bumps back to the rear. I'm worried about time constraints with shipping before we go not to mention having to get the tank and setup to charge them about doubles the price so that'll be my August truck purchase. :D
 
Most tire stores have nitrogen charging systems. Some won't go to the pre sure needed. But a lot do. Usually charge 5 bucks a bump. I have not recharged mine in 6 years. As long as they do not leak, they are good to go.
 
ktmoutfront said:
Most tire stores have nitrogen charging systems. Some won't go to the pre sure needed. But a lot do. Usually charge 5 bucks a bump. I have not recharged mine in 6 years. As long as they do not leak, they are good to go.
Click to expand...

I never even thought of that... I'll have to look into it. There's a lot of tire shops around here so one of them might have the setup to do it.
 
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