Help me find a lift for my Garage

[Chevy305]

So the time has come that I'm seriously looking at lifts for my Garage. I've got a 2 car garage with a second story work shop space and a walled car port off of the side. I plan on putting the lift in the car port once I pour a slab in it (it's currently crushed stone). I currently have a set of garage doors for it to door off both ends of car port. Here's my only close up photo of it (that's all the previous owners junk I'm currently just parking my Silverado in there):



So I'm told the joists running across aren't super necessary and can be removed for additional head clearance. However even with them removed, the slope of the rafters cuts down the head clearance to a total of 11ft on the left side. I'm seeing most lifts really need 12ft. What are your opinions on my situation here? What kind of lower clearance lifts are out there?


Here's the full picture for reference:

 

[sweetk30]

2 post with NON top cross tied posts . has chain or cables on floor with tiny hump for them . helps in this type of install. just a pita tho with rolling floor jacks or tranny jacks.

forward lift = rotory budget brand .

http://www.forwardlift.com/Car-Lifts/2-Post-Lifts/BP9-Two-Post-Lift/ = just under 9ft 6" hight posts .

other brands out there . this just gets you a start in looking .

 

[jekquistk5]

Glen you would need a hoist like mine but the cylinder does extend past 12 feet at full height. A set of thr bigger max jacks might work for you. You would need a floor plate style otherwise.

 

[Chevy305]

The little floor hump might be a pain in the ass but that's still a lot better than no lift

Now I wonder if since the slab isn't poured yet, I could cast a recess into the it to make those cables flush with the floor.

 

[RivMan]

Something like this would be cool if you need to pour a floor:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35433

-Rob

 

[sweetk30]

The little floor hump might be a pain in the ass but that's still a lot better than no lift

Now I wonder if since the slab isn't poured yet, I could cast a recess into the it to make those cables flush with the floor.

you could but you would need exact floor space plan for the 2 posts and the center channel . as all would need to be set down in . then this might play with the arms in the down position . but yes doable for sure.

as said some lifts the ram goes up and needs hole in celling to clear . . others do not need this as just the arm bracket moves and nothing else.

start looking around . . lots of options for sure.

maybe even drop the gravel floor a bit more and get more head height that way . since no slab in there now dig out and drop down . few feet to get desired height needed.

 

[jekquistk5]

The little floor hump might be a pain in the ass but that's still a lot better than no lift

Now I wonder if since the slab isn't poured yet, I could cast a recess into the it to make those cables flush with the floor.

I bet you could. Would still need a plate made to go over it. As the hump has "Ramps" on either side. Just do you research on the lifts to make sure you have enough concrete under it. I had 5-6" poured all through my shop. Floor plates lifts you don't need as much because the load is distributed on the floor plate. Either way having a lift has allowed me to reduce the time spent on eyverything. Make sure you get a service cart after the lift goes up

 

[beags86]

I would dig out the ground in the shed a bit to help with the clearance like sweet said.
do you want a 4 post or 2 post?

 

[Bent77]

 

[sweetk30]

I would dig out the ground in the shed a bit to help with the clearance like sweet said.
do you want a 4 post or 2 post?

years in shop work I would only use a 4 post for oil changes / tires / alignments .

2 post for the real work .

ever try and drop a gas tank on our style trucks on a drive on 4 post ? yes it was all stock c30 2wd but still it SUCKED. atleast on a 2 post remove tire slide out and tilt down and out a lot faster .

 

[Chevy305]

Ya I'm definitely looking for a 2 post.

I'll dig the gravel down for the depth of concrete that I'll pour. Unfortunately I can't go much lower than the current grade because then the driveway transition from the higher 2 car to the car port would require a quick slope or small retaining wall. Both of which would make plowing the driveway much harder than it already is.

 

[Chevy305]

Something like this would be cool if you need to pour a floor:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35433

-Rob

Wow this recessed scissor lift is pretty cool. I really love that it completely disappears and you have full use of your garage. I love everything about it but my only caveat is that you couldn't use it to lift a body off of a frame like a 2 post. Everything else it's a win but future projects may very well include separating body and frame. I suppose I could just do what has worked in the past and bribe several friends with beer

 

[beags86]

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/Su...px?t_c=13&t_s=158&t_pt=100812&t_pn=SSTLTB-200

4 of these on your truck and you won't need a lift....

 

[skunked]

Second story workshop eh?

I'm pretty sure that second story floor would have a 20'x10' hole in it and I'd have a lift directly under it.

 

[Chevy305]

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/Su...px?t_c=13&t_s=158&t_pt=100812&t_pn=SSTLTB-200

4 of these on your truck and you won't need a lift....

Even with a 4" lift and 35"s it's very easy to work under on a creeper. The key is being able to droop the suspension though.

Second story workshop eh?

I'm pretty sure that second story floor would have a 20'x10' hole in it and I'd have a lift directly under it.

That's an interesting idea. I might look into that. I'msure it's possible but I don't know framing and how much work that'd really be. The whole garage is supported by a steel I-beam run between the doors and 2x10 floor joists running perpendicular to that. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:

 

[skunked]

That's an interesting idea. I might look into that. I'msure it's possible but I don't know framing and how much work that'd really be. The whole garage is supported by a steel I-beam run between the doors and 2x10 floor joists running perpendicular to that. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:
View attachment 227094

Based on this pic I would take a closer look at opening the area above your stepside, leave the other area for storage above. Upstairs is there a wall or posts directly above the beam that ties into the roof?

 

[Chevy305]

Based on this pic I would take a closer look at opening the area above your stepside, leave the other area for storage above. Upstairs is there a wall or posts directly above the beam that ties into the roof?

No the upstairs is wide open up to the rafters:

 

[skunked]

Buy some new blades for the saw zaw and worm drive, you're good to go.

 

[jekquistk5]

Yah see yah loft area. Put the lift in your garage. Easy peasy, then move that crap to the shed/ lean too. Would be easy to keep half of that area too with that huge i beam spanner.

 

[skunked]

Yah see yah loft area. Put the lift in your garage. Easy peasy, then move that crap to the shed/ lean too. Would be easy to keep half of that area too with that huge i beam spanner.

that would be my move without a doubt.