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Help No Headlights

RootBreaker said:
also that can be bought at autozone or advance auto parts for like $5... I have one that I would sell you as it is brand new but $5 shipping would get you the new $5 part....

and a new headlight switch is $12.99....

i dont care if you are a broke high school kid or a cracko that lives per baggie...


$20 to aleve the issues of those components.... definitely the way to go....
you know they are new and it is wiring.....

trust me after you deal with issues like this.. it is only with great joy to have electrical issues fixed......
you know it brother.:D one day my truck didn't start.:confused: it ran the day before but the battery had been jumped/charged so much i figured it was spent.i needed a new one anyway so i got one. put it in,still nothing!!:doah: i checked the ground from the block to the firewall, the ground from the block to the frame.they were all good.??i tried everything. so i got creative and took the neg cable from the battery and bolted it to the fender behind the hood hing and she started right up.:dunno: it's been fine ever since.WTF??:haha:
 
ahh I see, i just typed headlight switch into the search and it only came up with the one I posted, there search tool is really screwie.
 
ok, I bought a circut tester from harbor freight. I just spent a hour trying to remove the headlight switch and I cant get the darn thing out of there. Anybody got any tips to removing that thing?
 
there is a button on the back of the switch, with a little spring under it... push it in and pull the whole knb/shaft out... then you turn out the nut that retains it to the dash..

I haven't read this whole thread, or even what the original prob is, but I'd bet your prob lies in the hi-beam switch.. They are WAY more notorious for failure than the headlight switch.. not to mention, it doesn't function when you step on it...
 
thank ryoken, Im figureing sense its the stock unit I might aswell give it a shot. It's only 12 bucks and if it doesn't solve it then im off to the high beam switch.
 
my wager...

I'm betting on the dimmer switch being the culprit--they always "F" up after sitting!--I have to spray mine with WD-40 after the truck sits awhile or it wont budge--I also had to replace a lot of them,AND the wiring and plug that go to it(parts stores carry the "repair harness",its the same plug as the headlamps use)..floor mounted dimmers get salted all winter from snow on your shoes,they don't last long around here...switch needs a good ground too,have to grind the paint and rust off the floor where they bolt on good..:crazy:
 
I just got done pulling the headlight switch out, I disconnected it and where the wires connect to it i put my circut test on and it didn't light up, same with the dimmer. Does it need to be touching the wire itself or just the tab thing there connected to. Sorry im a big noob.
 
well are you using a test light or a meter?

if it is a test light... there are a few things..

1. test light wire with clip needs to be hooked to ground for it to work
2. you just have to touch metal on the wire ends... if you touch insulation you will get nothing... need to touch the wire end or if you can see the metal crimp part...
3. I am not 100% sure but when you mount that switch in the dash it actually also grounds it to the cab... so you may have to ground it too to get a good connection.
4. I am a noob at wiring too so I cant tell you what wires do what but not all will light up the test light....
hope that helps some
 
RootBreaker said:
well are you using a test light or a meter?

if it is a test light... there are a few things..

1. test light wire with clip needs to be hooked to ground for it to work
2. you just have to touch metal on the wire ends... if you touch insulation you will get nothing... need to touch the wire end or if you can see the metal crimp part...
3. I am not 100% sure but when you mount that switch in the dash it actually also grounds it to the cab... so you may have to ground it too to get a good connection.
4. I am a noob at wiring too so I cant tell you what wires do what but not all will light up the test light....
hope that helps some

Im useing a test light

1. i had it grounded to the bottom of the dash, i used it there and it lighted up.
2. going to try to explane this abit better, the wires that connect to the switch itself, those tabs i put my tester on it, got nothing.
3.would the door work? im thinking it wouldn't from the information you just said.
4. so am i but im a bigger one.


i dont think it was the switch because today i put a new one in sense i broke the stock switch removing it, it just basicly fell apart.
 
I thought it could be that to, so i pulled it apart and put my circut tester on it and the light didn't light up.
 
i had this same thing happen to mine, it was a wire that comes off of the starter and goes to the fuses. i think it was a red one. been 2 years ago.
 
its one that come off of the big brass nut. not bat. cable, should be 2 smaller wires that come of brass nut and goes to the dash. i did all the things you have done,switchs, fuses, spent a lot of time looking for the problen and it was that wire
 
mine was broke off at the nut. heat and age did it in. 80 blazer just have to trace the wire it goes from the starter to the bacb of the dist. cap to the fuse block
 

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