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Help w/torque on beadlocks & countersunk bolts

mrk5

mrk5

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I'm working on getting some weld-in beadlocks installed, the set I won from Ruffstuff Specialties - thanks again Dan! I had them made with countersunk bolts.

Beadlocks20.jpg


Being the geek that I am, I've been using a torque wrench and using crossing star type patterns. I've read 10-20ft-lbs is a good range, so I've set the torque wrench to 12ft-lbs.

Now I've torqued around 2 wheels countless times, in addition to the Cricket and B_to_C doing the same for me. I'm still getting movement out of the bolts everytime I go around and they tires are leaking air. One side worse than the other.

My father-in-law pointed out that putting the torque wrench on the countersunk bolt head is not going to yeild the most accurate results. It makes sense because there is more friction fighting the torque. After he mentioned this I also observed that the gap varies quite a bit between the sides.

So I'm open to ideas on how I should proceed.

I have 2 thoughts.
  1. Just torque the rest of the ring down to match the tightest side.
  2. I guess I just have one thought. :doah:

I did try using a crow's foot on my torque wrench, but the nuts are too far under the welded ring.

I'm also concerned because the bolts I got are not fully threaded and I'm nearing the end of the threads. I had to get long bolts to begin with because the bead on that XL is 1" thick.

Any ideas?
 
Scott with the trailreadys that we run you have to start with 1 length of bolt and switch that out with a medium length and finally the short length that they run. The bead thickness is to much for 1 length of bolt.:mad:
I have never used a torque wrench on mine. I use a 3/8" ratchet and an end wrench and get them nice and snug. You may have to tighten them up, wait a few days and repeat for several go rounds. They may even leak a bunch until they get a few weating and cooling cycles on them from street driving.

BTW. The bolts will never get tight, never stay tight, and the rims will always leak.
Thats the "upgrade" that beadlocks offer.
They upgrade the maintenance that is required.:doah:
 
Just tighten all the bolts to the same in a criss cross patern. I would have to check them about every 4 trips and generally 3 or 4 would loosen. The rings did cone on me but also did not have an effect on performance. I remove and reinstalled the rings three time and no ill effects. although maintenece does increase i have NEVER had a leak, as a matter of fact my truck sat for over a year and i didn't have to add air.
 
Yeah the guys were giving me chit that my pre-trail check list just increased by 160 bolts. :doah:

Sounds like I should tighten them down so that the gap is even all the way around. But there is hope that the leaking may stop at least. My hope is I don't have to swap in shorter bolts. Here's hoping. :crazy:

If I could keep the leaking to a minimum I'll live with it. At least with the XLs the tire still has some resiliency at 0psi. I hope to have the luck SCOOBY has, though. :deal:
 
A little anti-sneeze under the bolt heads would put the actual torque closer to what your wrench is stopping at, but if you were counting on the C'sinks to act a bit as a thread locker.......

What is the bolt size? At work I have the HoloKrome design ref for what they recommend as the max torque for their FHCS'. It is lower than what a SHCS' max torque is.
 
I've run beadlocks for quite some time now. Nothing but the weld it yourself type. You can torque them until your blue in the face! I get them to the point where they are pretty even, and call it good there. I've never had to retighten. I check them from time to time and have yet to ever have a problem with them loosening. I always use a pinch lock nut or a nyloc.
 
Just do what I did and buy the tires already mounted by the previous guy:haha: The guy I just got them from said he used to put a homemade spacer(ie: piece of wood) between the rings when tightening them to keep even spacing and not bend the rings. Other than that I know as much about beadlocks as you do:dunno:
 
I was actually thinking of doing something like that - using a wood spacer. Once I can get one sealed good, I'll have a good gauge to use for the gap.

Thanks for all the help input guys! :D
 
Your welcome! :D

I suppose you want us back up there for another 4 hour beadlock suckfest. :haha:
 
mrk5 said:
These are the exact bolts I got from Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1613567185 They had the HoloKrome brand, but they were back ordered.

I did use the Grade C pinch-lock nuts, actually Ruffstuff provided them with the kit.
Click to expand...
According to H-K's design guide 245 in-lbs is max. for the Flat Head Cap Screws. In under 1/2" bolts their alloy is slightly stronger than the spec for a SHCS so if not H-K brand I'd back it down a bit.
 
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