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help with body mount

makovai

makovai

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so the pic below is the passenger side. I have already got everything in the drivers side except the core support mount. This is where my problem is.


Looking at this pic is the 6 mounts. left is core support to the right is back of frame. the 4 on the right are easy. they are all the same. then theres the one 2nd from the left. it goes in the firewall area. its quite a bit thicker but i can see why. now the core support.

it is way smaller in diameter first off. it is way too thick second off, and the shoulder on it is way smaller than the hole in my frame. Does anyone have a pic of the core support mount, or have an answer why?

ps....this is for a blazer.

21803340205_large.jpg
 
mine

I just did mine and I got them all orginized in piles and then taped them together in stacks. I used the LMC catalog as reference...

Here is driver side and passenger. That washer is in the wrong order...

P1040897.jpg

P1040898.jpg
 
thank you thank you....i called IGOR and since his body is not on the frame we went through all the parts and got the pieces figured out.

...now my biggest issue is getting my door jams correct. i need the front clip to tip down to pull the piller forward. I now have 5 shims in the firewall mount and it needs more. That just seems weird. I guess ill just ad more shims.
 
I now have 5 shims in the firewall mount and it needs more. That just seems weird. I guess ill just ad more shims.
Click to expand...

I've got a similar problem and I have a theory on what's going on. I think the answer is to loosen the front fenders, remove all the shims, and then tighten the fenders back down.

Here's my wacky theory:

The factory used shims in two different places: under the firewall and under the back of the front seats. Those two positions control the door gaps between the front fender and rear bedside.

Now, when the factory did the shimming, they likely started with all the body mounts and fenders assembled without any shims. Much of what keeps the windshield frame from sagging is that it's tied to the core support via the front fenders.

When the fenders are installed without any shims underneath the floor, the distance between the upper door hinge and the core support body mount becomes fixed. When you add shims to the location under the firewall, the body must flex upward at that location but the distance to the core support body mount stays fixed. The result is that the whole front portion of the body pivots downward around the firewall body mount as the shims are added.

Since the core support mount and firewall mount are now at different heights, the upper door hinge must pivot foward which results in the windshield frame following and results in a larger door gap.

Now 20 years later you remove the front fenders and all the tension holding the windshield frame forward is now gone, but the body shims are still there. The windshield frame tilts backward and your gaps are now hosed. If you then tighten down the fenders, you must now add even more shims to get the door gaps to open up again. Argh!

I believe the way to solve the problem and use the fewest amount of shims is to remove all of the old shims and then re-tighten the front fenders down so you can get the core support tie-in back to the shortest distance possible like the factory had.
 
Makovai -- Brian's post is pretty much what I attempted to say in my PM.
 
AJs72K5 said:
Makovai -- Brian's post is pretty much what I attempted to say in my PM.
Click to expand...


yes, thanks brian and AJ.

I will give this a try again soon.

One question though. should i attempt to adjust the firewall/pillar angle one side at a time or both at the same time?
 
Even though it's likely that both sides of the truck will need similar amounts of shims, I'd do both side at once ( or alternate between the two back and forth adding as few shims as possible) to get it right. Shimming one side will likely affect the other a little bit.
 
I used the Energy Poly mounts on my First Gen last year and after looking at your pic of all the mounts and washers it looks as though the firewall mount washer (position 2) is too small a diameter. My bolt that was recommended from the instructions was to be a 9/16" and all yours look to be about 3/8". Just a thought I had is all. Since you said all of one side was done you may not have a problem. BTW, does anyone know why you would need such a large diameter bolt for holding sheet metal to the frame? Seems like the tub would fail long before the bolt does.
 
Big Blzn said:
I used the Energy Poly mounts on my First Gen last year and after looking at your pic of all the mounts and washers it looks as though the firewall mount washer (position 2) is too small a diameter. My bolt that was recommended from the instructions was to be a 9/16" and all yours look to be about 3/8". Just a thought I had is all. Since you said all of one side was done you may not have a problem. BTW, does anyone know why you would need such a large diameter bolt for holding sheet metal to the frame? Seems like the tub would fail long before the bolt does.
Click to expand...

actually i have 3/8 bolts everywhere except core support and firewall which are 1/2". All the bushings have holes to clear a 1/2" bolt.

If i said "one side was done" i really didnt mean that...i meant one side was installed....its far from done as i cant get the door and pillar to line up.....not even close.
 
That's interesting. I believe the install directions from Energy has 3 different diameter bolts being used. Hmmmm, Wierd.
 
I replaced my body mounts about a year and 1/2 ago and I also only had two different size bolts in the same locations - Core and Firewall
 
so how many shims have you guys used? I've got 5 in so far. I cut a bunch on the laser so i have plenty to use. but Igor says there was 3 in his rig. I'm just curious what normal, what alot, and whats rediculous.
 
Mine appears to have come with two from the factory on the firewall positions and nothing anywhere else. I have since added on to the location behind the front seats, but they are about 1/8" thick. I have not taken my own advice about removing all the shims yet though.
 
Anybody have uneven shims?

I have 5 on the Drivers side and need more.
I have 5 on the passneger side and its too many.
 
5 is sounding kinda rediculous. Are your hinges bad? The firewall shims control the gap in the front of the door, the back of the seat shims control the rear door gap. How many shims in the rear?
 
bp71k5 said:
5 is sounding kinda rediculous. Are your hinges bad? The firewall shims control the gap in the front of the door, the back of the seat shims control the rear door gap. How many shims in the rear?
Click to expand...

well im still trying to figure this out. i now have 20 shims in the truck 5 on both sides of the firewall and 5 on the rear of doors.

the passenger side needs them taken out as the front window pillar is way too forward. however the drivers side is still leaning back and the door wont close.


drivers side with 5 shims
door2.jpg
 
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