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here we go again...**pics*** DONE!

Avery4jc said:
haha yeah don't worry about that...I won't ever be in a rice burner ;)

Well honestly iono if I'd do anything while in college...at least not for the first year b/c I'm in the dorms....my sophmore year I will be able to move out b/c my sister will be a junior and w/e housing rules apply to the oldest member of an immediate family apply to the rest of the family @ ACU...so we're going to get an appartment.
So once we get to that point I could get a project but thats a long time from now....iono what to do...oh and btw don't think I'm thinking of selling the truck just b/c I'm having an issue tonight...it just sort of came up. :)
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ur making the right choice by not *selling* the truck.. lol.. just i would be in the same shoe as urs if im in cali.. i will be going crazy out of my mind abt smog stuff.. since i grew up with very little to no emission.. as matter of fact everything i owned i yanked out emission stuff.. except my 03 silverado... sounds like u have a nice truck tho.. but it kinda sound wimpy too since its smogged.. lol joking
 
nah it is...I mean its not like you can't make power and still pass smog but its just harder and takes more time and $$$.
iono...I'll figure it out...a nice comfortable dd might be nice for a while...

but anyway back to the topic at hand...I'll clean out that fuel filter tomorrow when I get home from work. My bro is picking me up in the morning and he is dropping me off at work then my boss is taking me home...so thank goodness for nice people that don't mind taking me around! :)
 
avery, the inline fuel filter can be a little wierd at times, i have one in my non elec q-jet and was having some problems, pulled it out and it looked fine.. stil having same issues, went to rebuild carb and pulled the filter out and started looking around... WTF< the filter had a little black cap on it and so i pulled it out and the filter was full of black rust and stuff on the inside of it.. its not the outside you wanna look at.. its the inside.... as far as the code goes... id look at the ect sensor (engine coolent temp)... prolly bad or shorted a wire somewhere.... Nate
 
ok...so could a clogged filter make it run like this? I mean it just seems weird...
 
Avery, I just read your thread and I was thinking. (hear me out) If, and I say if, the carb isn't getting enough fuel to it because of a plugged filter, then it would straighten up, when the load was taken off the engine.
Under load the engine draws a lot of fuel. the bowl in the carb is usually almost full and would not immediatly start to starve for fuel until after a minute or two of running under load. so probably not the main problem.
I was kind of thinking even before you said something about vacumm hoses, that maybe you got the vacumm hoses crossed, and are now opening the EGR valve when it's not suppossed to be opening. this will cause a rather large stumbling problem and evena stalling problem if it wwas pronounced enough.
If all the hoses are routed correctly, then pull off the EGR valve and apply vacumm to it see if it opens. I've seen bad EGR's cause all sorts of running, driveability troubles. EGR valves need to routed to PORTED vacumm not full time vacumm.

That particular code will set for almost any reason, I wouldnt' pay it much heed untill you get this driveability problem handled.
 
Oh yeah and if you're moving to TX, you won't have to worry about Cali emissions much longer. Throw another carb on there. :haha: :deal:
 
mr.smartass said:
Oh yeah and if you're moving to TX, you won't have to worry about Cali emissions much longer. Throw another carb on there. :haha: :deal:
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X2..... yep... and avery. buy a new fuel filter. it shouldnt be no more than 5 bucks and if ur carb has never been rebuilt or anything by other owner. ill bet ur still on the same original filter from 1985.... happened to me before..:crazy:
 
yeah I guarantee you this is the orignal filter...I know I haven't changed it and the guy I bought the truck from a couple years ago sure didn't worry about stuff like that...

Well I could just throw another carb on there but I was talking to one of my teachers at school....and he's like, "you know...this might be the perfect time to go FI..." he said its not really that hard of a swap and that he could help me do it.
He runs a 5.0 Mustang engine in his Bronco that he wheels so he knows what to do @ DMV to get their stamp of approval...he said they actually don't mind when you do swaps like this b/c its improving the vehicle. Just a thought :)
 
Avery4jc said:
yeah I guarantee you this is the orignal filter...I know I haven't changed it and the guy I bought the truck from a couple years ago sure didn't worry about stuff like that...

Well I could just throw another carb on there but I was talking to one of my teachers at school....and he's like, "you know...this might be the perfect time to go FI..." he said its not really that hard of a swap and that he could help me do it.
He runs a 5.0 Mustang engine in his Bronco that he wheels so he knows what to do @ DMV to get their stamp of approval...he said they actually don't mind when you do swaps like this b/c its improving the vehicle. Just a thought :)
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FURD:doah: i only like ford tow rigs.. not to wheel with... i just wont ever own them.. but i will ride in some.. i like the older furd body style.. but its still ford = found on road dead...:D
 
hey matt where is this EGR valve?

I got some pics everyone...this is the filter I'm talking about...is there another one on the frame rail or is this it?

100_5981.jpg



and here are some general pics...where is this EGR valve?
100_5982.jpg

100_5983.jpg

100_5984.jpg
 
I found the EGR valves you were talking about and checked the vacuume line running to it and its all hooked up.
Both lines running from the manifolds run into one spot and one vacuume line runs to them...

I soaked the threads on that filter up by the carb and I can't get it off...when I try to turn the small collar on the fuel line it turns the big one with it and crimps the fuel line...then if I hold the large collar in place and try to turn the small collar it won't budge...iono what to do guys.
 
First thing is to change that filter. Use tube wrenches as suggested. The problems you are having in getting it loose is a common one. Use a good penatrating oil and be careful as those connections are very important yet fairly soft so it's easy to screw them up and end up with a real PITA. Work slow and patiently.

Follow the fuel line back, through the pump, to the tank. Look for any other filters on the line and replace those as well.

Until you get the filter(s) changed and cleaned out it's no use to look at other potential problems.

Finally, yes your mechanic will replace everything until he hits the correct item. That's very common. Time is the most expensive portion of his bill so he makes a quick diagnosis and leaps in.
 
BKinzey said:
First thing is to change that filter. Use tube wrenches as suggested. The problems you are having in getting it loose is a common one. Use a good penatrating oil and be careful as those connections are very important yet fairly soft so it's easy to screw them up and end up with a real PITA. Work slow and patiently.

Follow the fuel line back, through the pump, to the tank. Look for any other filters on the line and replace those as well.

Until you get the filter(s) changed and cleaned out it's no use to look at other potential problems.

Finally, yes your mechanic will replace everything until he hits the correct item. That's very common. Time is the most expensive portion of his bill so he makes a quick diagnosis and leaps in.
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Also known as "throwing parts" it tends to piss ppl off and give you a bad rep. I'ma go read the rest of the article and see if I can help a little bit. Check the fuel filter and then make sure your cat aint gone bad( just a lil tap-a-roo like chubs would say). I had an impala in the show a week or 2 ago and the cat went bad on it. Costumer stated that the motor fell on its face and wouldn't go over 50mph, the check engine light wasn't on, there were no codes in the history. As far as the low values on the ECT sensor. When I'm at work monday I'll PM you the diagonostic flow chart for that code. Just make sure you have a multimeter ready, and buy a cheap deep-well 18 mm socket and put a 1/8" slit in (for the wires to go through). Thats alot easier than getting. a crows foot or line wrench on it.
 
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Ok I just put everything back together and hooked all the lines back up and went to fire it up...I had one vacuume line that was jacked up so I cut the end off of it and reattached it. It was running to something on the passenger side manifold pipe closest to the firewall...iono what it is but it's vacuume line was hanging there so I fixed it.
I went to fire it up and now it won't do anything...the truck just turns over. Its getting spark and fuel so I wasn't sure what to do. I decided to call the shop and see what he wanted to do...

I didn't want to put 100% of the blame on him b/c in all honesty it was running correctly when it left his shop on monday...that being said it worked until thursday then had issues again so regardless...maybe it is something he should have caught before he sent it out for the second time with his seal of approval.

He had me check the MAP sensor wiring harness up on the firewall...it was fine.
So he had me use a screwdriver to hold the carb open and then turn the engine over...he was listening over the phone...it didn't do anything.

He said put it to WOT using the pedal and turn it over...it didn't even try to start...just spun and spun.

Soooo that being said he said if I can get it over there monday he'll take care of it. I think thats my best option b/c honestly I don't know enough by myself to figure this one out and I don't want to mess with stuff and then have him blame it on me.

I put it all back together and I'll just have to tow it over there mondy morning...:( sad day...especially b/c our annual car show @ my church is Sunday afternoon and I was going to go into the under construction class.
 
I'm pretty sure it's your filter. If I were you, I'd just pull that thing off and don't let anything stand in your way. If you can't make the wrench move, put a cheater on it. Get a friend to hold a wrench on the bigger fitting for you so you can concentrate on the tubing nut. If you must destroy it to get it off, then don't sweat it. Cut that sucker off there if you must. You can but a new premade line at the parts store for a few bucks and bend it by hand to fit.

That same little filter took out my mom's '78 K30 a while back. I was cruising down the freeway on about a 300 mile trip, and at the start the truck would do up to 80mph, then start cutting out. I figured what the heck, old truck doesn't really need to go that fast anyway. By the time I got to where I was going, the truck wouldn't do more than 40 without surging and bogging down and almost dying. It would go fine at lower speeds, and if you let it idle for a bit, the bowls in the carb would fill back up and it would accelerate like normal...until they emptied out again. I stopped at my sister's place, pulled the line off. The line was seized, like yours, and I snapped a wrench trying to loosen it. Luckily the second wrench held up and I got it off. That little filter was plumb full of deteriorated rubber chunks. Cleaned it out, and she ran better than ever.

Those filters are tiny, and they plug easily. It isn't really a difficult or expensive fix. It's certainly not worth selling the truck over if that's the problem it's having. I added in a larger metal inline filter just before the carb, so that it would catch all the junk before it gets to the little filter. Then it's just a couple hose clamps to change the filter, no stuck nuts to deal with. As far as the truck not starting goes, just triple check to make sure all the lines went back where they came from. There should a vacuum line routing diagram under your hood somewhere too, that might help. Otherwise, you never know, it just might start tomorrow. Good luck with it man, don't give up on it yet.
 
so I still haven't heard...is there another filter in line somewhere besides the one right here by the carb?
 
ok...then what is all this talk about one on the frame rail somewhere? I've been searching through old threads and people keep going back to the frame rail...
 
should be on your driver side frame rail, i believe its closer to the tank side of your fuel feed line. I wanna say its right after the cab. Nvm thinking about new trucks, ima google it and see what turns up. Didnt find nething, but how many miles are on your truck?? ever throught it might be a timing issue? Do a compression check. The timing chain could have stretched and slipped a tooth or 2 and then possibly snap. Also pull the dizzy and make sure the gear on that is in tack and good shape.
 
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I just had the timing chain inspected, new plugs, wires and a brand new distributor put on. As well as the carb tuned and timing reset so yeah...thats why we are going with a fuel delivery issue because all of the ignition is brand spankin' new.

I just went and bought a new set of open ended wrenches as well as a set of wrenches for stripped/rounded out ones...I've let some panther piss soak in this entire time so I'm headed back out to get that thing off and I'm not coming back until I do!!!

l8er guys!
 
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