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HI-pinion Dana 60 update

BadAss90K5 said:
I missed this post. That's the setup I'm going for. :D

I have other priorities that need tending to, such as full convert top swap, etc.

I just got a '96 Toyota Camry (for free from Dad) so the K5 is no longer a DD and I have a roommate now so it has a place to rest. I'll be able to get more done on it than I could when it was a DD...
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good to know someone elce in the process...that way we can share info if we run into problems along the way...
 
What do you mean??? A 78-79 is a bolt in affair.. On the late model axles the diff is offset about 3" due to the frames being wider on those trucks.
 
so if you were putting one in a blazer you would have to build a truss all the way across the top of the axle and have the perches on top of the truss...what about driveshaft angle side to side??
 
twoslo4five0 said:
so if you were putting one in a blazer you would have to build a truss all the way across the top of the axle and have the perches on top of the truss...what about driveshaft angle side to side??
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That sounds like a clusterfuk... :crazy:

Like I said before IMHO those later axles arent worth the trouble.
 
HP 60 in a Chevy

I am currently in the middle of this. I am using a 78 HP 60. My reason for doing this is that I also have 52" springs and wanted to improve the driveshaft angle. The axle is under there with crossover steering and that is about it. The shock mounts are different but I wanted to put on the Ford shock towers anyways for the 52s. The TC I am planning to use is Ford's version of the 208 w/ my 208 input shaft swapped in. I bought a 208 clocking ring from DIY4x but still wonder how I am going to shift it. The Ford 208 also has a factory SYE for the rear DS. The exhaust has to be rerouted and I may have to do 1" body lift or some rearranging with a BFH. This truck has kind of become a guinea pig of sorts because it never seems to get finished. It also has 64" spring in the back. I did drive it around in 2wd trying to flex it out and will say that it is pretty limber so the Hp 60 swap may be worth it eventually. Thanks to CK5 in getting it this far. I guess what I am trying to add to this thread is just what is involved in this swap. Sorry (but not real sorry) if I rambled.:D
 
CUCV2 said:
I am currently in the middle of this. I am using a 78 HP 60. My reason for doing this is that I also have 52" springs and wanted to improve the driveshaft angle. The axle is under there with crossover steering and that is about it. The shock mounts are different but I wanted to put on the Ford shock towers anyways for the 52s. The TC I am planning to use is Ford's version of the 208 w/ my 208 input shaft swapped in. I bought a 208 clocking ring from DIY4x but still wonder how I am going to shift it. The Ford 208 also has a factory SYE for the rear DS. The exhaust has to be rerouted and I may have to do 1" body lift or some rearranging with a BFH. This truck has kind of become a guinea pig of sorts because it never seems to get finished. It also has 64" spring in the back. I did drive it around in 2wd trying to flex it out and will say that it is pretty limber so the Hp 60 swap may be worth it eventually. Thanks to CK5 in getting it this far. I guess what I am trying to add to this thread is just what is involved in this swap. Sorry (but not real sorry) if I rambled.:D
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monte your full of info always...now how bout some dang pics!!
 
Sorry, my tech is limited to the garage. Maybe I should do a search on how to upload pictures and then go buy a digital camera. It would probably be more helpful. I know everything is easier to visualize when it is right there in front of you. I'll go back to my hole now:D.

EDIT - I just changed my sig so you can see some of what you are dealing with here.
 
I don't mind a little clutter in my thread as long as it is Ford Dana 60 tech, and so far it's all good. I'm actually glad 2slo4five0 asked this question. I didn't know the difference between a 86-97 D60 from a 78-79 D60 until now.

I take all the tech you guys put in here and use it as motivation :D
 
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My brother is running a 79 Ford 60 with an IFS chevy xfercase. Works good. I'd run a Ford 205.
 
I've been too busy all week to do anything but yesterday I looked it over and learned it was too rusted up to keep anything. So I stripped it all down to the knuckles, popped the cover and the ring and pinion gears appear to be in great shape. Will be cleaning and grinding down the rust off the bare housing in a little bit. I think I should do the Chevy swap, I'm not liking how Ford had their stuff mounted from the factory.
In the meantime, I ordered the springless hi-steer arms from Balistic Fab, ATOR big brake kit which includes the rotors, calipers and backing plates. Also ordered the DIY4X razorback cover, knuckle tabs for shock mounting, and a one-off order for some spring plates since Ford mounts their plates on the bottom, these will be on top. A local has dibs on the ford outers and a sale is pending. So that money back can really help me finish up the swap, even just a little.

I'll order the hubs, spindles, locking hubs, shafts, locker, and 1410 yokes when money allows.

Of course I'll need new driveshafts and exhaust redone. I need to find a machinist who can fab up a turbo350/203 bracket with the mounts on the drivers side. The reason for this is I bought the ORD doubler adapter from Greg72 and it's designed to suspend the t-cases under the crossmembers (which will be fabbed after the cases are on the truck). The 203 is 90 degrees on its side with the shifter shafts pointing up, so that explains why I need the mounts on the drivers side. I guess it's going to be difficult to send out dimensions over the internet, I might have to do a local walk-in.

You know what?


I think once I've finished the rebuild, I'm gonna look over the receipts and say, I could've bought a damn Dynatrac.
tongue.gif



This axle is gonna be plenty fun.

Damn, I'm stoked.
 
the exhaust is tough..i dont really like the way mine is done but hey it works..
DSC07876.jpg


what are you talking about with the doubler??here is how mine is i need to build a crossmember for the 205 though..
DSC07851.jpg

DSC07852.jpg


mine is also clocked with a 3 inch body lift and i still had to do this

DSC07860.jpg
 
The doubler I have is rotated flat, with the yokes on the 205 level with each other and crossmember is mounted on top. Also, notice the PTO plates are on the bottom, not on the sides like the 2" rotation desgns have. Look at the fourth pic (tan colored flat doubler) in this link: http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/CustomDoubler.htm

I have the pic saved but it won't paste.

That setup won't work well with a 203 adapter bolted sideways so I need to find someone to machine it (or machine a one-off) so it bolts up the way it should.

As for the exhaust, I think I can manage to squeeze some duals in close to the framerails, as Wayne did with his clocked flat 241. I expect to cut out a chunk of the floor to make way for the doubler crossmembers but I'll have to talk to Chris, he's a local fabricator and a friend.
 
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