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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by big pappa b, Jul 22, 2005.
Any idea the price on these and who's running one?
Any complaints, problems, ease of install
I think they are around $250, but dont hold me on it.
the kit is easy to mount. but call h.a.d first to get info. you need a flange that he makes to replace the output yoke. and this is what the dick mounts to. you cant just mount it to the stock yoke.
The fun part comes when trying to make the lever to actuate it.
Id like to see some pics of how people have hooked theres up.
It's supposed to hook up to factory e brake cable
I can't really see it being worth $250 myself. I want to run this setup, but its just too much money for me at the time. I mean all it is, is a tiny disc brake bracket, mechanical caliper, yoke, and a small rotor. Those of us interested here have to be able to come up with something for cheap. I'm going to look into finding a mechanical caliper, maybe buy the HAD output and something like mount a toyota rotor on it.
hmmmmm i have to admit i had some issues figuring out how to mount the brake! i wont be using a factory type setup, ipurchased a lokar hand pull lever and cable. i can take a pic of the caliper and rotor mounted if you want?
easy to do. stock cable down frame like normal. then find lever for ebrake and go to the frame and cut hole. then mount some kind of steel wheel with groves on it to hold cable. this will allow cable to do a 90 degre angle and pull the arm.
jesse did mention need ing to fab up a pulley setup i would be welcome pics of someone's way they worked it out
the kit is over $200... I got one when I won a HAD certificate here on CK5. I forget if it was $250 or not.. but I had to pay a little bit to cover it.
In any case, yeah, you have to fab up a system so the cable can take a right angle. Depending on how your tcase is mounted and how much body lift you have, you may need to cut a hole in the floor for the kit to clear. I'm waiting to do mine until my cage is in... that will take care of the floor problem.
There was a guy on Pirate not long a go that has a blue Tahoe that made his own.. He posted about cutting the back half of the Tahoe and caging it but I forget what his name was.. If you search the Chevy forum he has a write up on it on his site... If you can't find it let me know I will try to go back and dig it up..
Here it is
Making one and making one that works can be two different things. I watched one of my wilwood co-workers go thru hell getting a mechincal caliper design to work. It is a very fine balancing act btwn total cable travel, leverage ratio, and clamping force.
Don't want to discourage anyone from trying, just want to open their eyes to what they may be getting themselves into.
I've thot about making one myself. Figured to use the std front D52 pads though I doubt I can find set with a high enough cold Coefficient of Friction.
The cable pulley deal is pretty simple. A real hardware store will carry the pulley. If not, there's always McMaster-Carr Search "wire rope sheaves" or go to page 1284
Someday I'm going to try to get the mechanical caliper off a Yamaha Blaster to work.
A friend has on on his truck. Seems to work pretty good but pretty basic stuff for the $$$. He just hooked it up to the factory e-brake pedal. Next time I go over there I can try to snap a pic.
I have one on my truck. Mine is clocked at about 11 o'clock if looking at if from the rear. I don't have a body lift and had to hammer the floor to get the clearance I needed. This clocking is the easiest to hook up the cable because the cable points just slightly down to the driver's side (right where the factory cable is). I used the factory cable and foot lever setup and cut off some of the threads on the factory e-brake cable. My bracket for the cable consists of a piece of angle iron with 2 holes drilled in it (one 9/16" for the cable and the other 3/8" to bolt onto a factory exhaust hanger that was right there).
The e-brake will hold on just about anything that the tires will hold on but make sure you use loctite on the bolts so it doesn't loosen up (you really should use grade 8 bolts too). but mine doesn't have the side brace that other clocking's come with.
there is the fact that it does not have to be a mechanical caliper.
Think a small master cylinder setup would bleed off too much over time? Thought I'm having at this second is, between the seats mount a mechanical master cylinder with a lever on the piston, that when you pull it back and engage the brakes you slide it to the side and a steel plate with a notch holds it in place. The thought of an ATV mechanical(or even hydro) caliper and maybe even rotor, is interesting.
lol you said dick
if you are comparing these to caddy caliper ebrakes, price wise, caddys come out cheaper
pricewise, packing wise, caddies fall behind. With lots of flex, or lift, I can't see e-brake cables being long or loose enough to travel around that much.
You really don't want to go there for long term use. Like parked in your sloped driveway. Something like this can work for short term apps. Like getting out of the truck to look where the rock under you rolled to.
The problem with long term is that the pressure will bleed off. A good system might take days, or it might not take that long and then your posts would be missed.
Something like the Jamar Park-Loc can be put in your service brake system for the short term uses.
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