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High Centered My Trans X-Member --- again!

OK - I can see that.

I've gotta straighten the lower rails of the frame right there and perhaps weld in a little extra support to cover the rip that happened in the frame from the x-member mounting holes when it got high centered.

I don't fear that the frame will break there - I'll just make up a nice little shadow piece for the rail about a foot long that will take care of the bent and ripped area. That way I can stop a crack if it should form from running anywhere I don't want it to go.
 
Joe In Montana said:
OK - I can see that.

I've gotta straighten the lower rails of the frame right there and perhaps weld in a little extra support to cover the rip that happened in the frame from the x-member mounting holes when it got high centered.

I don't fear that the frame will break there - I'll just make up a nice little shadow piece for the rail about a foot long that will take care of the bent and ripped area. That way I can stop a crack if it should form from running anywhere I don't want it to go.
Click to expand...
If you want to pay shipping I have a clean crossmember you can have.
 
Joe In Montana said:
I've got a son down there in LaLa Land and he's coming up in a while some time after May 5th or so. I'll ask him if he wants to pick it up.

Thanks for the offer.
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No problem.
I have a couple, no one ever needs them and not worth much for scrap.
 
Thankfully I have a winch on the front receiver hitch I installed a bunch of years ago. It's kinda hard though, to use a snatch block in that position.

I always bind a 4"x4"x36" into the front loop of the cable and then run the hook into the drawbar chain loops that normally are on the receiver tube.

It works for me. It's kinda nicer to bash a pedestrian over a 4x4 than impale them with the end of the hitch.
 
Joe In Montana said:
OK - I can see that.

I've gotta straighten the lower rails of the frame right there and perhaps weld in a little extra support to cover the rip that happened in the frame from the x-member mounting holes when it got high centered.

I don't fear that the frame will break there - I'll just make up a nice little shadow piece for the rail about a foot long that will take care of the bent and ripped area. That way I can stop a crack if it should form from running anywhere I don't want it to go.
Click to expand...
My buddy's frame had cracks in that same area spreading from the bolt holes because he had the spacers set up like you do. We replaced the spacers with some square tube after we fixed the frame.
 
Yep, go back and re-arrange the bolts and spacers to the factory locations, after you mend the frame in that area. Then park your K5 on a flat surface and take some actual measurements of your driveline angles. You keep stating about not liking the u-joint flopping every 180 degrees. Here's your problem, u-joints speed up and slow down on every revolution. The key here is equal (or close to it) and opposing angles on the shafts (without a CV joint). With correct angles, as the front joint speeds up, the rear joint slows down. As they rotate through the rear slows and the front of the shaft speeds up. Effectively, the speed up/slow down happens to cancel out the difference in speed.

Like others have said, stock suspension shouldn't require major changes to the driveshaft angles. You mentioned it happening under towing too. Having too much tongue weight will cause the rear suspension to squat and change your rear shaft angles.
 
Did you know a stock Blazer front shackle makes an excellant transfer case shim?
I discovered it after installing my ORD 3" lift.
Replaced my stock shackles up front with ORD's heavy duty shackles.
Was trying to get my pinion, transfer case and operating angles for my rear driveshaft within 1 degree.
Shimmed the rear axle back down to correct for the rear shackle reversal.
But still had too big an operating angle on the front u-joint.
Needed to shim the transfer case down.
The stock front shackles are just the right size and the holes are even spaced 4 inches apart.
Just had to drill them a little bigger 15/32".

I needed 3/4 of an inch so I also used some flat stock.
But the stock Chevy front shackle plate made a great drilling template and I added it to my shim stack to get to 3/4"
Angles within .8 degree now.
Anyhow, thought it might help someone out.

20180429_175117.jpg
 
All good guys!

I'll take care of this as soon as I get back from Des Moines. I've got a stopover in Denver and picking up a car for a buddy.

I just drove a U-haul 27 foot moving van and now a buddy's car to get on the way. My fishing safari is getting out of hand.
 
K5wrench said:
Digg the skid pan and rock sliders.
In picture 3, i see the empty bolt holes for the transfer case to engine block brace.
Might want to put that back or find one.
Bolts are metric too.
Click to expand...
It's been this way for about 5 years, with no problems, so I'm gonna roll with it. LOL
 
skunked said:
@500$k5 uses his truck, I saw every skid plate, bumper and slider get some action last year in Moab.
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I believe you.
Come to think of it, that brace is probably most help to a transfer case without a skid pan like he has.
A rock hits the unprotected case, and the brace supports it.
But since he has that dope skid pan, nothing can hit the case.
 
When I bought my '78 with 6" lift it had spacers like that. I'm sure they were for driveline angle but I couldn't stand how they tilted the dizzy so close to the fire wall. So out they came. I did try to put them above frame mount but they wouldn't go in without cutting or removing a heat shield on one side so I got shorter bolts.
 
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