78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Battery has already been replaced. I checked the cables, they look fine and the connections are all 100% good.
Is there an OHM test or something for the cables?
CK5
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High compression? or?
- Thread starter 78 GMC Jimmy
- Start date
Is there an OHM test or something for the cables?
ea of the test the best result(pass) is less than .5v if any are over 1v that part of the circuit has high resistance.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
So... Replace the main battery cable that goes to the starter? And the main cable that does from the battery to the block, and the cable that goes from the battery to the body?
I already spend 30 ****ing dollars on a god damn heat shield blanket for the mother ****ing starter, so what could a couple of battery cables cost? 10 bucks?
Might have to return that starter blanket. Or maybe I will keep it, since the idea of keeping the starter cool is sound - regardless of other issues.
Get a fluke or other volt meter and check you faying surfaces. Each should be less than .6 ohm at every connection.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Like Wes has been trying to tell you, check the voltage drop on + and - cables while someone is cranking the engine. It’s best to have a load on the wires and not just check the resistance. Learn how to use a multimeter if you don’t already know how. They may look fine on the outside but corrosion at the terminals where the cables attach or even inside the cables will cause cause resistance. Heat also increases resistance. And no, don’t skimp out on cheap $10 cables. 
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I have half a dozen batteries in the garage, some are brand new. I have plenty of brand new, and several used electrical cables on hand. I am way past testing. I am ready commit the ultimate mechanic's sin: THROW PARTS AT IT......Like Wes has been trying to tell you, check the voltage drop on + and - cables while someone is cranking the engine. It’s best to have a load on the wires and not just check the resistance. Learn how to use a multimeter if you don’t already know how. They may look fine on the outside but corrosion at the terminals where the cables attach or even inside the cables will cause cause resistance. Heat also increases resistance. And no, don’t skimp out on cheap $10 cables.
I do not agree with the concept. But I am running low on hair!!!!! So parts it is!
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
So I replace the battery .. AGAIN.... And what, replace all the battery cables? The cables have already been off, cleaned, inspected and reinstalled.. So I do it all over again I guess. I verified the timing 3 times, I might as well do the battery cables 3 times as well. ... .
rampage
3/4 ton status
Don’t care how you do it just get it done. I think we’re all done with this saga.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Again, the cables might look fine on the outside but under the insulation it may be corroded leading to a high resistance and creating a voltage drop.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
The best thing about a difficult problem is that EVERYTHING get improved, tuned up, adjusted, and refurbished. By the time you find the problem, you have improved and perfected so many things that the damn thing is is EXCELLENT condition at the end. This rig runs like a raped ape at this point. One front tire comes of the ground when I pin it to win it. If this hypothesis about the electrical system pans out, then that would be great. Already replaced batteries, replaced starters, replaced battery terminals, double checked all connections - combined with the problem ONLY happening when the engine is hot? Man, I hope its electrical.....
What were your actual timing numbers though?
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I tried all different timing settings. Can't time it by the book. The light/gauge are useless. Using those doesn't work. Only way is to ping/retard/ping/retard until its good. So I have no idea what the number are.
Do you have a dial back timing light? Did you confirm the balancer mark to TDC? Are you setting timing at idle or at 3k rpms?
I would recommend getting some timing tape on your balancer so you can at least understand if you're in the ballpark.
I would recommend getting some timing tape on your balancer so you can at least understand if you're in the ballpark.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I tired buying a super fancy timing light. Timing mark to rotor tip all confirmed (3 times). Checked for timing chain slop. Checked for distributor and cam gear wear. Tried timing at idle and 3K to look at total curve.
Update:
Final cooling system flush done. Put the original 180 thermostat back in. Distilled water, antifreeze etc. Flushed overflow tank. Installed a HUGE industrial 1190 CA (1,000 CCA) battery that I had laying around (tested, its in good shape). Improved the battery connections even further. Added extra ground straps.
Fingers crossed.
Update:
Final cooling system flush done. Put the original 180 thermostat back in. Distilled water, antifreeze etc. Flushed overflow tank. Installed a HUGE industrial 1190 CA (1,000 CCA) battery that I had laying around (tested, its in good shape). Improved the battery connections even further. Added extra ground straps.
Fingers crossed.
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You say timing mark to rotor tip matches, but does the mark on the balancer match the timing tab. The balancer could be off in relation to crank/cam position even if the mark is on 0 while the rotor points at 1. I think some of us are just having a hard time with the "timing light is worthless" part.
rampage
3/4 ton status
I see nothing about the + cable from the battery to starter.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I tired buying a super fancy timing light. Timing mark to rotor tip all confirmed (3 times). Checked for timing chain slop. Checked for distributor and cam gear wear. Tried timing at idle and 3K to look at total curve.
Update:
Final cooling system flush done. Put the original 180 thermostat back in. Distilled water, antifreeze etc. Flushed overflow tank. Installed a HUGE industrial 1190 CA (1,000 CCA) battery that I had laying around. Improved the battery connections even further. Added extra ground straps.
I already have a replacement cable in hand, just haven't gotten to it yet. I have to remove the heat shield blanket from the starter, which has wire rap to secure it. Not a big deal, but an extra step. Rather than replacing the old cable, I would probably just add a second one. The other stuff that I did was going to be done regardless, and who knows - it might be fixed. So if the problem persists, I will replace or add the cable.
With all the cooling system flushing, the engine temp is significantly lower than it used to be, even with the original thermostat back in there.
Update:
Final cooling system flush done. Put the original 180 thermostat back in. Distilled water, antifreeze etc. Flushed overflow tank. Installed a HUGE industrial 1190 CA (1,000 CCA) battery that I had laying around. Improved the battery connections even further. Added extra ground straps.
I see nothing about the + cable from the battery to starter.
I already have a replacement cable in hand, just haven't gotten to it yet. I have to remove the heat shield blanket from the starter, which has wire rap to secure it. Not a big deal, but an extra step. Rather than replacing the old cable, I would probably just add a second one. The other stuff that I did was going to be done regardless, and who knows - it might be fixed. So if the problem persists, I will replace or add the cable.
With all the cooling system flushing, the engine temp is significantly lower than it used to be, even with the original thermostat back in there.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I did notice that there was no obvious ground strap between the engine and the body. I added one from the engine to the frame. I should probably connect the frame to to the body as well, since the rubber body mounts might isolate the frame from the small negative ground wire.
Also, the starter cable remains cool to the touch after extended cranking. I assume there would be a hot spot if there was resistance somewhere. That proves nothing, but it is noteworthy.
Also, the starter cable remains cool to the touch after extended cranking. I assume there would be a hot spot if there was resistance somewhere. That proves nothing, but it is noteworthy.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Seems like others have had the same issue.
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Hard/Slow Crank When Hot
Hey folks, I've been having this issue that I've been meaning to seek advice for. When I shut my engine down, and go to restart it, it often LABORS...
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78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I gots me half a dozen batteries that are in good shape. Maybe I should install a double system. Two batteries, two power cables, two ground cables. Hell, With some effort I could install two starters - but that would be too much effort.
