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High compression? or?

there is absolutely no reason a single battery shouldn't be able to crank a sbc 400, in good shape under any circumstance. If the the compression was so high to increase the cranking power needed, you wouldn't be able to run the engine on pump gas.

There is a problem that hasn't been found. The most likely is electrical power/supply/connections, or timing.
 
there is absolutely no reason a single battery shouldn't be able to crank a sbc 400, in good shape under any circumstance. If the the compression was so high to increase the cranking power needed, you wouldn't be able to run the engine on pump gas.

There is a problem that hasn't been found. The most likely is electrical power/supply/connections, or timing.
 
Its very difficult to diagnose because its VERY inconsistent. The only thing consistent is that its hot, and then its been sitting for the right about of time.
 
A proper solution would be great, but a convenient workaround would be acceptable. If a second battery solves it permanently, that would be fine. It would be an upgrade and a fix all in one. 10 months later and countless hours, dozens of forum post and suggestions, and NOTHING has been solved. The problem is still exactly the same.
 
maybe I should check the starter bolts. If they are loose, could heat somehow cause a bad connectio..........
I wonder if maybe there is some sort of a problem with the cooling system, leaking fluid into the cyl.......
Maybe the ignition swi............
Maybe when the ......... Maybe the....
Oh! maybe the ... Maybe there is a ...........
 
A proper solution would be great, but a convenient workaround would be acceptable. If a second battery solves it permanently, that would be fine. It would be an upgrade and a fix all in one. 10 months later and countless hours, dozens of forum post and suggestions, and NOTHING has been solved. The problem is still exactly the same.
Well I have been following your posts from the beginning and I can say that it should have been solved a long time ago.
It's only a couple of items to check.
But I watched you jump around back and forth and not following through with everything and that's how you are here after all this time and no resolution.
I noticed also that you say you got something tested and then months later tests showed it was no good.
I was helping my brother in law fix his van after he had it at 3 different mechanics and never solved the problem. It shuts down while driving and will not start again until hours later.
I got it and started going through basics, cap and rotor were original and nothing left of the contacts, changed them.
The next day the battery died, I load tested it and it's bad, internal short. Changed it. He said it died a few days earlier and took it it to O'Reilly and they charged it and tested it and said it was good to go.
It threw a crank position code, and I checked the sensor, it was new but loose and had 2 shims.
Took them off and tightened it. He was also smelling fuel all the time, he said they changed the pump by cutting the floor, I checked the lines, and one was lose and both were missing O rings, put some on and no more smell then I fixed the floor.
Point is, you can't always trust anyone claiming they are mechanics.
You have to start with the basics:
First make sure you have a good battery, might have to buy a new one to make sure.
Make sure cables are good and you have good grounds everywhere.
Then check the starter, I know it's new but if you didn't have good grounds you probably burned it.
Also I thought I heard you tested the alternator and it's bad?
A bad battery will eventually kill an alternator.
Once those are all good, then you can check the timing.
If you follow this sequence you will solve it in a few days.
You can't skip, just go step by step.
I know you are like me, frugal and like me, have plenty of parts on hand.
But you need to learn when saving is spending money on the right thing.
Batteries and tires, I don't skimp on, all my used batteries get used for my emergency solar powered power bank.
A good used original starter is most of the times better than new Chinese products.
I struggled with a diesel truck and bought a new starter, a week later it was grinding, I checked the bolts, checked the brace, finally realized it was failing internally.
I stole one from a parked truck and everything was fine.
So are you ready to get it done?
 
Load tested battery and it shows 800. Load tested battery using the old battery cable between the battery and load tester + side. Sesults: 400.
I think this is your best clue so far. I wouldnt be surprised if the new cable fixes it.
 
I think this is your best clue so far. I wouldnt be surprised if the new cable fixes it.
Been driving it apund town and freeway. Hours of running errands. So far so good. Slight possible hesitation a few times, but not even noticeable unless I was looking it. Last night I put it on a 1.5A trickle charger and this morning it said 100% charged and was in standby mode.
 
Ya, seems like the dang + cable MIGHT have fixed it. Dumped the clutch, pinn'd it to win it, and as I grind to a halt I see parts of my truck roll past me. Again....

https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/d/seattle-need-yoke-for-k5-blazer/7795720575.html
Can you take it of and confirm some measurements?
I most likely have one.
First I am pretty sure it's 32 spline, please confirm.
Second measure the outside diameter of the shank that goes in the seal area.
 
Can you take it of and confirm some measurements?
I most likely have one.
First I am pretty sure it's 32 spline, please confirm.
Second measure the outside diameter of the shank that goes in the seal area.


What would you want for it, if ya had one? Location? Shipping?
 
Looks like the seal is about 2 1/4 by 3 & 1/16th ish?

On the seal lip it says:

pt-103 seal nok servis


Any idea what seal that is? Cant find one on Amazon.

Can anyone send me an Amazon link to a seal that would work?


Possible size:

3.066 OD X 2.125 ID​

 

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