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High Desert "AMMO" Build - Restarted 16 Sept 11

Gunny65

1/2 ton status
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Oregon
* Update - I had to put this build and thread on the back burner for a bit. I started working on it again last month. I forgot to take a lot of pics but I will update this thread with what I do have. Slowly.

Well, I guess I may as well make a build thread. I don't know how far I will go with it but why not chronicle it, right? So far it has had its ups and downs and I haven't even put wrench to vehicle yet.

I found this on Craigslist for $900. "This is an UP part" :)

It has power...just about everything. It all works. The windows and driver seat don't move very fast but they move. The AC works if a tad on the warmer side than cold (needs a recharge) The Trans and Tcase were rebuilt approx 40K miles ago. The bill and paperwork were in the glove box. It cost him around $2450. The motor has very little oil seepage anywhere and runs nice and strong. There is rust but not much and none bad. Overall, I was wondering if it was stolen when I went to take a look at it due to the price they were asking. LOL. I registered it the next day and found out it isn't stolen (sigh of relief). FYI, I paid the asking price. :D

I will post the vehicle specs tomorrow and add a few under carriage shots.


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wash the motor, buff the paint, put some real tail lights and badges on it and resell that hoe for 4500 here where im from! good buy!
 
Started Rear 14 Bolt FF Axle Swap

I started taking apart the 1992, 14 Bolt FF, SRW axle off of a 1 Ton GM vehicle today to prepare it for an rear axle swap.

I wasn't sure if the 1992 axle would accept the disk brake conversion equipment. I found out it will accept it and here is the relevant thread: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272109

The standard leaf spring perches on this axle are to far apart so I am removing them and the bump pads. I will weld on new perches and possibly new shock mounts. This is the relevant thread that helped me figure out this axle will work on my Blazer...with a few modifications: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272066

Since it looks like the axle will accept the conversion just fine and I need new spring perches I ordered a full Axle Swap kit from Ruffstuff: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/14-bolt-complete-rear-axle-swap-kit-p-178.html I liked the thought of getting the whole package and I liked the bend in the caliper adapter rather than using bushings. Go with what you like best as long as it is safe. I also liked the pinion gaurd and differential cover. I can paint them any way I want and they seem to be sturdy. I will let you know what I think when they come in and I put them on the axle.
 
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Taking the 1 Ton Axle Apart

The next few thread additions are pics of me taking the Axle apart. (I may get some part names incorrect. I will try to fix them as I learn more and through the input of others).

I sprayed WD40 on both hub flanges and let it soak in for about 10 minutes while I got all my tools together. I tried using a 350 ft\lb impact wrench on the eight flang bolts. Didn't budge them. I had to pull out the 650 ft\lb impact wrench to get them out.

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After I got the axle flange bolts out I tapped on the flang with a hammer to loosen it. Then I pulled the axle shafts out and laid them to the side.

Next I removed the lock nut retainer with a pair of needle nose pliers, then found the the retaining key or metal tang that stops the adjusting nut from turning after it is torqued into place. Needle nose pliers worked there too.

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Brake Drum Removal

Once the retaining key was removed I used the pointed end of a pry bar and a hammer to remove the adjusting nut. One or two whacks on the pry bar with a hammer (hit right next to hub end of the pry bar and in a counter clockwise arc) and they came loose enough to turn by hand. Both nuts came out quite easy.

After that you can remove the outer bearing but I figured, why? I am not using them again. I pulled the drums off and laid them to the side. Then I took the four bolts that attach the rear of the drum to that axle out and removed the rest of the brake mechanism. A few light taps with a hammer and they come loose. Slide the right off and put them aside.

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Cutting the Spring Perch and Bumber Pads Off the Axle

Once I took the brake drums off I could easily reach the outer edges of the spring perchs with my cutoff tool. If you don't remove the whole brake drum mechanism then you can't fit the cutoff tool in far enough to get a good angle at the perch.

The first pic shows how close the perch is to the back of the drum.

It took me awhile to get the left side perch and pad off. I didn't want to accidentally cut into the axle tube so I took it slow. I left some nice chunks of metal on the tube when I was done but that is what the grinder is for. I will grind the axle smooth and clean it up before I weld the new spring perches on the axle.

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nice find, what are the plans?

I want to make this into my off road toy. My youngest daughter is going to help out some too. I plan on swapping out the 10 bolt with a 14 bolt and putting a Dana 60 up front. I want to lift it between 4 and 6 inches using a shackle swap, some zero rates, and whatever I need up front to balance out the ride. That is as far as I have gotten really. This will take me awile and I plan on putting some nice toy stuff on it. I hope to catch it all in this thread. Who knows how far I will actually take it. :D
 
You're not wasting anytime! :waytogo:

LOL. Nope. I have some time to spare. That is why I decided to build the toy. Lots of the parts will come from the junk yard so that will keep my costs kind of low. Well, low enough to keep the wife happy anyway. :wink1:
 
You're making good progress so far Gunny. Curious though, why are you calling it the "AMMO" build? I thought maybe you were going to do like me and use a 30mm ammo can as your center console, but I see you already have a good console.
 
Actually, that console I have is in two pieces that do not match. I am going to replace it with one that locks and mount my stereo and so forth in it. It won't be as "easy" to steal it when the topper is off.

I put AMMO build for two reasons. One, I am a Gunsmith and plan on putting Gun and AMMO themes into the interior at the very least and two (the major reason) I was in the USAF for 20 years as an AMMO troop (Munitions Systems Specialist). Worked with small arms, base explosives, bombs, and missiles...AMMO. :)
 
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You're making good progress so far Gunny. Curious though, why are you calling it the "AMMO" build? I thought maybe you were going to do like me and use a 30mm ammo can as your center console, but I see you already have a good console.

Actually Andy, the more I think about it, I like your idea with the ammo can as a center console. Spruced up of course but still, an ammo can. I'll have to see what else I can fab out of ammo cans.

Anyone else have any ammo cans fabbed into thier rigs? Pics would be cool.
 
Actually, that console I have is in two pieces that do not match. I am going to replace it with one that locks and mount my stereo and so forth in it. It won't be as "easy" to steal it when the topper is off.

I put AMMO build for two reasons. One, I am a Gunsmith and plan on putting Gun and AMMO themes into the interior at the very least and two (the major reason) I was in the USAF for 20 years as an AMMO troop (Munitions Systems Specialist). Worked with small arms, base explosives, bombs, and missiles...AMMO. :)
:bow::bow::bow:
 
Anyone else have any ammo cans fabbed into thier rigs? Pics would be cool.



I've actually got a 20mm ammo can that I just installed into the back of my Suburban 2 days ago that I'm going to use as a storage bin for MRE's, matches, compass, batteries, toilet paper, etc. I'll snap some pics and post them up for you.
 
I've actually got a 20mm ammo can that I just installed into the back of my Suburban 2 days ago that I'm going to use as a storage bin for MRE's, matches, compass, batteries, toilet paper, etc. I'll snap some pics and post them up for you.

Yeah, those 20mm cans, along with most of the other ammo cans, have that nice rubber seal under the lid. Nice and water tight. Whatever I decide to fabricate out of them, I am going to make sure I maintain that nice tight water, and air for that matter, seal. Throw some desicant in there and it will take any residual moisture out. Keeps items stored in the can good for a REAL long time.
 
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