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High steer cross over kits .

Chevk587

Whiskey bent & Hell bound
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so I just grabbed my Dana 60 now I’m looking at a high steer cross over kit from ruff stuff I’m new to this and still learning and see the difference between cross and high cross but I’m also seeing a y link kit also what is the differences . Is anyone useing either of them / prefer one or the other ? Also how difficult to install?
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...&Product_Code=R2208&Category_Code=STEERINGKIT

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...MItIOJ8qCj2AIVQ2B-Ch1EGgviEAQYAiABEgLzQ_D_BwE
 
Y link will probably hit the leaf springs.
Traditional crossover is ideal for us.
 
Ruffstuff continually posts that Y link stuff here but that's not a set up you ever see used on a GM or Dodge axle, it's a Jeep set up. They have several items they post here that are typical Jeep products, it annoys the crap out of me that they don't pay attention to what type of vehicle this site is for.

As stated, regular crossover is what works simplest for these trucks.

High steer just moves the wheel to wheel tie rod up above the springs to avoid contact damage.
 
So what’s the benefit to have one or the other is one better? Are they the same different applications ?
 
Um, typical crossover on our trucks places all of the load on the passenger side (aftermarket, because factory didn't have it) steering arm. The draglink acts upon the arm, which acts upon the passenger knuckle, and therefore acts upon the driver knuckle via the tie-rod. With the y-link, the draglink acts upon the tie-rod, therefore spreading the load between the knuckles. Either way you have a weaklink, and either way you lose a bit... depends on how you wanna lose...
 
I have ruff stuff high crossover system on my k5 with 4" lift and leaf springs. Works great. I only issue I had was I had to have the drag link jogged over about about 3-4" so it wouldn't hit the engine cross member. Other then that, no issues. Solid stuff and it's nice being able to steer. I recommend the frame brace and weld on plate for the gear box reinforcement.
 
I did the y link thing quite a few years ago. Used a bent draglink it worked fine

The typical x over is easy and a better system overall. I used 1.5" solid rod for my draglink. The draglink needs to be beef. If I were to do it again I would probably use ruff stuffs kit and sleeve the drag link and tie rod with 1.75" dom

No matter what your draglink angle will be better with conventional crossover
 
I have my own recommendation*** and some questions for you.

***Springless WFO arms with nylon bushings and ORD HD tierod or a sleeved tierod like blazinzuk mentioned. Grab some straight tubing from WFO and weld in threaded inserts for the draglink and make yours to fit perfect after you have everything setup.

For highsteer vs standard..... questions to consider.

Highsteer can be a little harder to set up hydro assist. Will you run hydro assist?
Highsteer with require a new engine crossmember, do you have one? Standard steer with just need a bent draglink if still using stock crossmember, IIRC.
Highsteer gets the tierod out of the way. Do you currently have a problem with the tierod now? Or are you like me and beat the crap out of it, causing more toe in, and not caring because the truck drives great? :D My hydro ram is mounted much like a stock stabilizer would be. It gets beat on some times. I need to make a skid plate for it but haven't. The highsteering gets the ram out of the way but will take some extra work to install.
 
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